Maybe I got one more knife left in me?


September 12, 2015, 03:24 PM
Sept. 6, 2015
I had to give up knife making about 10-12 years ago because my hands couldn't take it anymore.

But, I thought maybe I had one more left in me?

I had an old 7 1/2" Japan 440c Cyro quenched fighter blade blank in the Junque for 15 years.
Decided to go Coffin-Handle, with Ivory Micarta, and Ball-End guard.

Decided I maybe can make one last one for myself.
But this will be my last one, as my hands are already hurting!!

I got all winter, and can take it slow, instead of fighting it like a one armed paper hanger trying to fight wasps in the wall filling orders.

Made brass balls for the ball end guard today, then my lathe speed control box went up in smoke!!!

Dang Nab It!!!

I'd like to do a photo thing in NFW from start, to the the finished knife & leather..
But it will be huge, so stay tuned!!

The general layout:
Guard stock is 3/8"x3/4" brass stock.
Ball stock is 3/8" round brass rod.


Like this one I made in 2002: I actually made three of them and sold them.
Should have kept one for myself!!



If you enjoyed reading about "Maybe I got one more knife left in me?" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
September 12, 2015, 03:29 PM
Sept. 6, 2015

Making Balls:


General layout, even made myself an extra Ball!:

(Never know when you might Lose a Ball in the basement Workshop!!!)



September 12, 2015, 03:33 PM
Sept. 7, 2014

Milling tang slot in guard:

Sawing guard to shape:


September 12, 2015, 03:37 PM
Sept. 8, 2014

Shaping guard on drill press with drum sander:


Balls & guard rough shaped:



September 12, 2015, 03:40 PM
Sept. 8, 2015

Testing Nickle-Silver with inlay methods:


Rough Silver-Soldered in place:



September 12, 2015, 03:42 PM
Sept 10, 2015

Marking & Milling scales for tang:




September 12, 2015, 03:45 PM
Sept. 11, 2015

Test fitting:

Pin locations marked:


September 12, 2015, 03:48 PM
Sept. 12, 2015

Silver brazing the balls on the guard.
Silver Solder is Jewelers 'Hard' which is 85% real Silver, and melts at 1,400 degrees.


Crud is Flux that mostly falls off when quenched hot:



September 12, 2015, 03:51 PM
Sept, 12, 2015

Guard rough polished:

Finished making Nickle Silver & brass Thong Hole Liners:

That's all for now, but stay tuned!! :D


September 12, 2015, 04:30 PM
That is going to be a nice knife when you are done Rcmodel.

September 12, 2015, 05:52 PM
Sept 12, 2015

Cutting scale pins:

Pins cut:


September 12, 2015, 05:53 PM
Sept 12, 2015

Drilling holes:
2 pins, front and rear, keep the scales aligned while drilling the second scale to match.


Pins in temporarily:



Shanghai McCoy
September 12, 2015, 06:39 PM
DANG! That is looking good rc.

September 12, 2015, 07:02 PM
Looking good! Is the pin material 1/8th" brass rod?

September 12, 2015, 08:04 PM
A magnificent piece ! Really, the blade shape is excellent. 440c properly treated as right at the top for all around no hassle appearance . The handle will show well when finished on dressy occassions while still being usefull and rugged. Kudos to you.

September 12, 2015, 08:34 PM
Is the pin material 1/8th" brass rod?Yes, 1/8" bronze welding rod scuffed up on a belt sander for better adhesive bond.


September 12, 2015, 08:57 PM
Sept 12, 2015

Ready to silver-solder guard/blade joint.
Using Stay-Bright low-temp (430 degree) silver solder.

Using a engine valve spring to keep tension on the guard without heat sinking all the heat into the vice.


Going Hot!


September 12, 2015, 08:59 PM
And Hotter on the back side!

Photo out of order!
Hand rubbed the blade first with 400. 600, and 1500 paper & oil.


September 12, 2015, 10:31 PM
A bunch of the photos are not coming through.

Bad "settings" at my end?

I seem to be gettin' a little less than half and sometimes I'll get on in a post and not the other or two.


September 12, 2015, 10:33 PM

Thank you for sharing the build details! This shows so many members the effort that goes into building a knife after the blade is ground/forged. It ain't as simple as many think!

September 12, 2015, 10:40 PM

Thank you for sharing the build details! This shows so many members the effort that goes into building a (QUALITY - HIGH ATTENTION) knife after the blade is ground/forged. It ain't as simple as many think!
Agreed with the above conditionals.


September 12, 2015, 11:04 PM
A bunch of the photos are not coming throughI don't know?
They are all working on my PC & iPad.

Anyone else have problems seeing them??


September 12, 2015, 11:39 PM
I see all the pics. Gotta say you do things right RC! I won't hand rub blades as (even though I'm at the tender age of 59) my hands could never take it. They sure look good though but I use my 9" disc sander.

September 12, 2015, 11:49 PM
Well, I decided to put everything I got in my Bag of Tricks on this last knife.

Already made some mistakes I wish I hadn't!

Been a long time since I did some of this stuff!!

Gotta learn it all over again!

I would have had it done by now 15 years ago!!

Course it don't help having to stop and bring the wife back home in the middle of things! Drilling the pins this afternoon and the phone rang.

She slipped out of the house and made it 1/2 a block up the street before one of the neighbors called me and said she was heading off! :banghead:


September 13, 2015, 12:07 AM
Well RC, I only clicked in the thread because it was yours, and I sure am glad I did. Nice work. And good for you taking good care of Mrs. RC. I still have a box of 40sw brass slowly but surely filling up that I intend to send your way.

September 13, 2015, 01:18 AM
I did wonder how the wife stayed put while you worked on this, now I know! She didn't!

It's got to be twice as hard making the knife and constantly worrying about where she's at or what she's doing.

Very fine work.

Shanghai McCoy
September 13, 2015, 02:54 AM
I can't see some of the pictures either in the first posts rc. Your "selfie" while brazing came out good though. I like that spring trick for brazing guards.
Glad the neighbor saw your wife and let you know.

September 13, 2015, 08:50 AM
RC , that was the best tutorial we have ever had in NFW.

Similar to you my hands and back cant take much more than an hour at the bench. I got a Bowie Im trying to finish as a gift and the walnut scales are giving me fits in the detail.
Keep sharing your skill and knowledge my friend, we all apreciate it!

September 13, 2015, 10:58 AM

Thank you very much for sharing all this with us. The work looks great. That bit with the spring holding the cross guard in place with the vise is priceless in itself.

Good luck with your wife and I hope all goes well with both projects, the knife and the wife.


September 13, 2015, 08:25 PM

Scratched the blade REAL Bad today!!! :what:

With a 5/32" Oregon Chain Saw file, and a 6" Triangle file!

Big Mistake #2
I Should have decided to do the file work before I put the dang guard on!! :banghead:

Getting Started:

Halfway Home:


September 13, 2015, 08:28 PM
Not as good at this as I used to be when I could see better!!

Almost done:

Oh Yea!!:
It's scratched for sure now!!! ....... :uhoh:

That Scratch is not gonna rub out!



Ohen Cepel
September 13, 2015, 08:49 PM
Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

September 13, 2015, 09:53 PM

What else I did today????

Cut Hardwood plugs for the lanyard liner holes to keep from dishing them out when flat sanding the excess pins and epoxy off, then buffing out the handle.

Also cut weep hole slots inside the scales (Note Red mark in bottom scale and wood plug next to it.) the weep hole will let trapped air and excess epoxy bleed out through the open lanyard hole when the tang is forced in with epoxy.

(I will Drill out the excess epoxy in the 1/4" lanyard hole after it cures.)

The Fancy lanyard hole liners will only be put in AFTER the handle is sanded and polished to final Fit & finish, and the wood hole plugs taken out.

Minor buffing of the fancy hole liners will bring them up to high polish with no risk to the scale pins dishing out.


Getting close to Gluing the handle up and finish shaping it!
May be tomorrow?

Or maybe not???


September 13, 2015, 10:26 PM
There is a lot to be learned from you my friend. I appreciate your quality of work.

September 13, 2015, 11:19 PM
So you are not using the holes in the tang as pin holes? Very interesting! They will let glue through and will help the bond.

September 14, 2015, 12:18 AM
I'm conflicted on that?

The 12 1/8" pins are for sure alignment pins and will be bonded in place when the scales go together.

The 1/4" lanyard pin hole is going to serve as an epoxy & air bleed hole until after the two scales are bonded together.

Normally, I would assemble the scales on the tang and pins with epoxy.
And pin or bolt the scales to the tang.
Then flat sand the pins & bolts down flush with the scales and guard.

Then do final shaping with the guard with drum sanders, sand-paper strip strips, hand sanding, then progressively finer buffing wheels.

This one though???
After I do the Silver inlays in the guard, I can't flat sand the scales to the guard without sanding the Silver inlays off!!!

So, thinking outside the box, I am planning to glue the scales & pins together off the knife.
Then flat sand, fit to the guard, & finish buffing them.

Then fill the hole with epoxy, and force the tang in.

The 'weep holes' will allow excess epoxy & air to bleed out through the unfinished lanyard holes.

After the Epoxy sets, I can drill any excess epoxy out of the lanyard hole and put the fancy liners in.

Or, I could assemble it to the knife with epoxy & tang pins, then try to find a way to flat sand the junk off without ruining the silver inlaid guard???

You see the logic I'm coming from?
I don't think I can do it the normal way because of the silver inlayed guard??

Anyway, epoxied and force fit in the assembled handle, with air bleed hole to let the air escape would give me 100% total epoxy bond.

I don't think it's coming off in 500 years done that way!!

Or, I could pre-drill the two tang holes for 1/8 pins and plug them with wood plugs.
Then re-drill them after the epoxy sets and pin the handle to the tang then??

But, I have plans for that wide expanse of ivory slab with no pins in the middle.
(More old tricks I still may have in the bag of tricks??)

It's not too late to change my assembly plans yet!!


September 14, 2015, 01:01 AM
Love the file work,very nice.
Thank you for the insight and sharing your knowledge.

September 14, 2015, 01:26 AM
It does seem that without pins in those tang holes the only thing holding it together is epoxy - I would not want to use it much if this was the case.

BUT, this knife doesn't seem for hard use, if any use at all but to prove to you, the old knife maker, that you can do it. I applaud you for that.

I'd put pins in the tang but that's me. You make it your way and I'm sure it will outlast us all. I just worry that if the blade were stuck in something and pulling on the handle was the way to get it loose that it could fail by coming straight out. But again I don't think knife is really meant to be used (could be wrong) and if you leave the tang holes open they will allow a "pin" of sorts of epoxy.

I just have never made a knife where the handle was held on by epoxy only and it makes me nervous. :)

September 14, 2015, 02:24 AM
I don't get that nervous about epoxy joints.

I do believe when it's done right, and cured, you could drive it in an oak tree with a hammer.

Then pull it back out with a crow bar without the epoxy joint failing.

It's really no different then every screwdriver and hammer in your tool box.
Nothing is holding them on either, except a perfect friction fit.

And it don't get no more perfect then a perfect epoxy joint.

And you are right in that it will never See hard enough use in my lifetime to fail if I glue it on the tang with wallpaper paste.

It's just I can't figure out a better way to do it & pin it on at the same time.

Maybe I'll re-think it and blind pin it inside the scales, leaving the outsides free for what I want to try last?

But that puts me back to not being able to sand & polish it without ruining the guard silver inlay.

I want clean ivory space on the sides of the scales for one last trick I may try.

Hint: Think Scrimshaw Eagle, Banner in it's claws, with 'Liberty & Justice' on the right side, + something that goes with that on the other side!

'Cold dead hands'? NO!
'Don't tread on me'? No!

Matching Eagle with banner in it's claws on the left side with 'Liberty or Death? Maybe?

Pure speculation at this point.
But I want to leave that option open, with no pins in the way.


September 14, 2015, 02:38 AM
Maybe I'll re-think it and blind pin it inside the scales, leaving the outsides free for what I want to try last?

I thought about that too, but have no idea how to do it. If you are confident in the epoxy press fit, I'd go with that.

Wow, your decoration ideas are superb!

September 14, 2015, 02:41 AM
It's really no different then every screwdriver and hammer in your tool box.
Nothing is holding them on except a perfect friction fit.

I have had them fail, although I've never had a good one fail.

September 14, 2015, 02:59 AM
I can assure you, this will be a very good Epoxy Joint!

I have never had an epoxy knife handle joint fail in probably close to 200 I have made.
(Although most were bolted or pinned to the tang.)

Several of my first ones went to Vietnam in 1968 & 69.
One guy won a bronze star using the knife I made him to cut trough 4.2" mortar ammo steel case banding all night while getting over-run.

And it was a taper tang blade I made out of a file, epoxied into a blind hole handle of red Micarta block.

It didn't help the blade edge much, but the epoxy joint didn't fail!!


September 14, 2015, 07:26 AM

PM the last post # that you see RC's pictures. I can see them all, but they change size with #11.

September 14, 2015, 07:56 AM
RC, much appreciate the education.
Gonna steal the weep hole idea.
Like Don I alway pin to the tang, couple times when I wanted a clean scale look I used internal tang pins.
What epoxy?
I use Devcon, 2 part, get it at Lowes,

Smokey Joe
September 14, 2015, 12:00 PM
RC--Your skills are immense! As others have said, THANK YOU for sharing your techniques with us--I'm learning too, from your posts here.

That knife is amazing! What are you planning for a sheath?

Anyhow, thx again for sharing.

September 14, 2015, 06:21 PM
so if anyone was missing out on some of the pics like I was - be sure to recheck the old posts.

"...One more knife..." Understatements abound.


September 14, 2015, 07:17 PM
What are you planning for a sheath?Sheath plan was in post # 1, like I made 3 of 10-12 years ago.

But plans may change before I get that far.

I have another idea or two I may decide to try??


September 14, 2015, 08:26 PM
I have never had an epoxy knife handle joint fail in probably close to 200 I have made.

My concerns were because I've never made that type of knife, and you continue to impress and educate me!

Shanghai McCoy
September 14, 2015, 08:44 PM
I'm glad that all the pictures are up now. Sure looks good !

September 14, 2015, 09:23 PM
Didn't get a chance to do much today, except clean up the guard solder joint this afternoon.

So, this evening, I fitted the handle to the guard with Prussian Blue.

As it turned out, the guard was soldered on about .001" - .002" out of perfect square with the tang.

(Guess My Old Valve Spring is Sprung?)

So that left a tiny crack on one side of the guard / handle joint.

Can't have that!! :cuss:

So, I fitted the front of the handle to the back of the guard tonight using Prussian Blue inletting black.

The object is, you coat the hard part with Prussian Blue, then fit the loose part to it.

Where the black is on the loose part is tight.
Where it isn't black, is loose.
So you remove the black + a frog hair of handle, and try it again!
And again!!
And again!!!

First fit, note low side (gap) has no black on it:


SO, you take the black off plus just a frog hair of handle!

Last fit. Note pretty even black pattern.
This will give me a hair-line glue joint you can't hardly see when I epoxy the handle on:

I will probably fine tune it a little closer after I get the scales glued together and shaped down.


Next step tomorrow is try to mill the guard on both side's for the Nickel silver inlays, and silver-solder them & the Nickel-Silver wire rings in place.

(Without melting the guard loose from the blade again!!
It's all 430 degree silver-solder from this point on!! :what:

Wish me luck!! )


September 14, 2015, 11:41 PM
After thought!

Here is a very useful homemade tool for fitting those blind hole hidden tangs in your Bling knife project!! :D

I made it years ago from some 3/16" cold rolled steel rod, and a 3/16" x 3/16" tool steel lathe bit ground sharp, and silver-soldered to the rod handle.

This thing allows you to snake back in those blind holes and cut out Epoxy that squeezes out inside the pre-fit tang hole, drilled antlers, Mud Dauber nests on old forgotten projects, etc.

You can make one for nothing, IF you have a half-way decent Junk box!!

And you will not get along without it sooner or later!!

Hole Scraper Tool:

Cutter detail: Photo Looks like I need to sharpen it before I use it next time!! :o



September 14, 2015, 11:49 PM
That's neat! Like me a bit dull. According to the wife, not me. :)

September 15, 2015, 08:17 AM
Your a genius RC, You have taught mr more with this project that my mentor did in 2 years.

September 15, 2015, 03:55 PM
Assembling the handle this afternoon.

Ready, Set, GLUE!:

Epoxing scales together:


September 15, 2015, 04:06 PM
Gluing pins in:


All Clamped Up & waiting to cure:


September 15, 2015, 04:40 PM
I'm excited to see the finished product.

September 15, 2015, 05:17 PM
Have you used other exoxy's besides Great Planes?

September 15, 2015, 06:01 PM
Acetone is the best for cleaning up epoxy that squeezes out, I use lots of it.

September 15, 2015, 06:18 PM
Not even going to take you all winter Ill wager. Course, who knows. Maybe it is winter up there.

September 15, 2015, 09:54 PM
Have you used other exoxy's besides Great Planes?Yes.
I used to use the twin-tube Devcon 2-Ton stuff.

But it got too expensive in the mass amounts I was using when I was making a lot of knives.
And I got too impatient waiting on it to kick and set up the next day!! :banghead:

I had been using Great Planes for r/c aircraft.
And the only parts that ever survived a crash were the epoxy joints!

So, I figured it was good enough for knife handles too!!

Besides, it used to be cheap!
I see it's got up to $8.99 now!!


September 15, 2015, 10:03 PM
O.K. Here WeGo!

Little further along tonight.

Out of the clamps at 6:00 tonight:


(3rd. Mistake.
I cut the pins a little short with the V-bit in the lathe. So not enough pin sticking through on some of them as I would have liked to have.)

Sanding pins flush with 4" x 36" belt sander:
(Note home-made dust collection system on belt sander.)



September 15, 2015, 10:10 PM
First fit off of belt sander:


After Minor rounding with orbital sander:
Still more shaping and polishing to do.

(Note Scrimshaw idea I'm playing around with.)


Next Step:
I guess will be milling the guard for the nickle-Silver inlays, and soldering them and the N/S wire on the balls.

Friends, the pucker factor is getting very high at this point!
One slip-up with the milling or torch, and I will be starting all over and making another ball-end guard!! :eek: :what:


September 15, 2015, 10:15 PM
Just point me to the post number if I missed it.

What actually hold the handle onto the shank?

Does epoxy form a cross-plug in each of the two shank holes?


September 15, 2015, 10:25 PM
I asked about that in post #35, he is not using pins in the holes in the tang and yep epoxy will fill those holes. RC told us it is a pretty strong bond and I believe him!

September 15, 2015, 10:51 PM
I asked about that in post #35, he is not using pins in the holes in the tang and yep epoxy will fill those holes. RC told us it is a pretty strong bond and I believe him!
Sure enough - and I read that too... Go figure.

Thanks, Todd.

September 15, 2015, 11:55 PM
What actually hold the handle onto the shank?Nothing but Epoxy bond.

Same way they glue composite wing skins on super-sonic fighters!!

The tang, plus front surface of guard give me almost 15 sq/in of surface area to bond too.

Plus the holes in the tang full of epoxy 'pins'.

Plus, I will do some cross-hatching with a cut-off wheel on the rear 1/3 of the tang.
Plus 'Key-Ways' for want of a better word, in the back of the guard and front of the handle to lock them in.
Plus rough it up to clean steel with a course belt sander belt.

I can assure you, it will never come off in our, or our off-springs lifetime.

As an aside:
My late daddy brought home a Barong, and a Parang from WWII in the Philippines in 1945.

Both taper tang like a file tang.
Both glued on with some kind of native tree sap!!

One got a little loose about 10 years ago, after 60 years, and I re-glued it with CA Adhesive.

The other one ain't come loose yet in 70 years!!!

PS: Yes, it's gonna be fancy looking to some eyes, and tastes.

But I'd take it into battle when I get it done.
I have that much confidence in the strength of it.


September 16, 2015, 12:37 AM
If you have a sand blaster I'd blast the tang, if not your idea is good to roughen it up. I tape the blade and sandblast every tang before putting the handles on.

September 16, 2015, 12:56 AM
Don't have a sand-blaster.

Cross-hatching it lightly with a Dremel cut-off wheel, and roughing it up with an 40 grit belt sander is all I got!!

I think that will have to do.


September 16, 2015, 10:59 AM
home-made dust collection system on belt sander

Good for you! Ya'll pay close attention to that statement. You don't get to be a senior mentor ignoring shop safety.


If the tang and handle are cleaned well to get good adhesion with the epoxy there's nothing that will make an epoxied handle more secure than what RC has. I also agree that there's little chance that the thing will come loose and it if does it will be long after RC don't care no more.

Shanghai McCoy
September 16, 2015, 11:52 AM
As particular as rc is I'd bet he'll always care... ;)

September 16, 2015, 03:38 PM
Finished shaping the handle this afternoon using Fordom flex-shaft grinder:

Marked out what needs to be gone!:


Foredom grinder hand pieces with various attachments::



September 16, 2015, 03:43 PM
Handle after first buff.
Now I can see all the tiny sanding scratches because the buffing compound leaves black in them..
Then I can wet sand them out with Wet or Dry 320, 400, and 600 grit & re-buff again:


Assembled again:



September 16, 2015, 04:16 PM
Might as well talk about buffing & polishing now.

I'm using a cheap bench grinder for a buffing motor.

Various types of polishing compound & wheels that go with them are kept separate in zip-lock bags to prevent cross-contamination of the finer polishing wheels with courser grits.

Water based compounds are kept in air-tight containers to prevent drying out.

Below are what I use, or have used.
Left to right, front row:
* 240 Polish-O-Ray - Water glue base - Fast scratch removal.
* 400 Polish-O-Ray - Water glue base - Semi good dull satin finish.
* Green Rouge - Grease base - Super high gloss on stainless or carbon Steel.
* Brown Tripoli - Grease based - Course scratch removal on hard steel.

Back row:
* Yellow Rouge - Grease based - For super high polish on plastics & micarta.
* Bee's wax for finishing edges on leather.
* Blue rouge on buffer - Grease based - High polish on anything.
* Red 240 - Water & glue based - Cuts fast & leaves a rough finish!

* Buffing wheels can be loose flannel for super finish, Loose Muslin for a good general purpose polish, or Sewn Muslin for a harder wheel for putting more pressure on.



September 16, 2015, 05:28 PM
You go RC! Nothing like a buffing to really bring out the scratches!

September 16, 2015, 10:16 PM
Got Brave tonight!!

Milled the guard for inlays:


Stuff laid out to sliver solder inlays in guard:



September 16, 2015, 10:18 PM
Silver solder cut and laid in groves for tinning:


Slots Tinned:



September 16, 2015, 10:20 PM
Rings soldered on balls:


Inlays soldered in guard:



September 16, 2015, 10:25 PM
Then things went to hell in a hand basket!!

Left Side of guard.
Great, I can live with that!:


Right side of guard.


Solder ran down in wire while it was on the bottom. :eek: :banghead:
May have to melt it out and start over??

Or maybe I can salvage it by grinding out the excess solder down to the wire with a teeny tiny dental bur in the trusty old Dremel Tool?? :confused:



September 16, 2015, 10:28 PM
Maybe, but holy moly you're doing stuff I'd never have the talent to do!

I think I'd take it out and do it again.

September 16, 2015, 10:46 PM
Yea, But???

Every Time that torch gets close to that guard, I'm risking melting the blade / guard silver solder joint!!

Been pure luck so far I haven't already done it!!

I've got some braided copper solder wick used for cleaning excess solder off of circuit boards.
Maybe Ill try that tomorrow and see if it will suck some of it out of there??

Too tired and disappointed to mess with it anymore tonight!!


September 16, 2015, 10:54 PM
Then things went to hell in a hand basket!!

Solder ran down in wire while it was on the bottom. :eek: :banghead:
May have to melt it out and start over??

Or maybe I can salvage it by grinding out the excess solder down to the wire with a teeny tiny dental bur in the trusty old Dremel Tool??[/B] :confused:


I've done like work though not so artsy with a ground tip on an electric soldering iron with a variable temp dial and a couple-three glass eye droppers to draw the excess away. One pull on each dropper and toss it.


September 16, 2015, 11:15 PM
Gotta use an acetylene torch to get it hot enough fast enough to melt without transferring to the blade / guard joint and desoldering that!!

I don't think a glass eye-dropper wound stand the heat long enough??

Gonna try the copper solder wick tomorrow.

I'll Try to heat sink the other side that's good in a sopping wet rag to keep it from doing the same thing.

If that dont work?
I'll probably have to do it all over again!


September 16, 2015, 11:58 PM
Well, of course I couldn't go to bed tonight without trying to fix it at 11:00 PM!

Heat sinked it in a sopping wet shop towel, then heated the Glob of solder up and got some of it to flow into the joint.

(The copper solder wick didn't work.) :(

Then I buffed the snot out of it with 240, & 400, followed by Green Rouge.

Looks much better, but still not as good as the other side..

Maybe more buffing will get most of it?

The silver solder is much softer then the nickle Silver wire, so the solder should eventually buff out, and leave the N/S wire.

Left side:

Right side problem, looks better:


September 17, 2015, 06:29 AM
That was quite an education on buffing and polishing. Thanks

Smokey Joe
September 17, 2015, 10:28 AM
Just wow, RC!! Your skills and what you are doing with this knife are nothing short of amazing!! We stand in awe...And, also, thank you for all the illustrated lessons. I've learnt a good deal, just following this thread...Surely there are many others.


September 17, 2015, 01:40 PM
Just came across the thread. Very nice work RC. Have you ever taught knife making? I'm sure a local junior college org trade skill would love to have you teach your skills and pass it along to another generation.

September 18, 2015, 01:23 AM
I got side tracked on the knife tonight.
Mind wandered to a sheath design.

So this is a Quiz to see who's been paying attention!

What is this gonna be??:


HINT 1 = See post #1.

HINT 2 = See post #39.

HINT 3 = See post 62.

HINT 4 = Its a deer skull I've been sawing and grinding on all night.
(It stinks up the whole house like crazy.)

HINT 5 = That is real Sterling Silver rectangles on the cloth, just the right length to wrap around the 1/4" steel rod next to them.
Jewelers hard silver solder in the plastic bag.

(The flattened fork may or may not be relevant at this point. Just playing with another idea.)

So the Question? Whats it gonna be, and whats it got to do with this knife?? :D


September 18, 2015, 02:10 AM
You got me, you old codger! :D

September 18, 2015, 06:46 AM
Some thing to do with the scrimshaw?

Shanghai McCoy
September 18, 2015, 10:52 AM
Guessing that the deer skull is for the decorative beads on the sheath. The fork would make handy spacer for laying out the stitching holes.
Other than that I got nuthin'...

September 18, 2015, 11:23 AM
You pretty much got it.

The 'thing' laying on the pliers will hopefully turn out to be a fake eagle talon.
A pair of them to make, Sliver mounted and attached to the leather lacing ends.

The two silver rectangles by the rod with be bent around the rod to make the mounts.

The fork may or may not turn into a belt clip?


September 18, 2015, 04:22 PM
Got the silver & copper mounts for the sheath thongs done this morning.
And one Talon done.
Still got to slice another chunk off the Steenk'n deer skull!

Donor material.
R.I.P Mr. deer:


Overall layout:



September 19, 2015, 12:03 AM
10:50 tonight.

Got the scrimshaw artwork done.

Problem is, the last time I did Scrimshaw was in 1983.
32 Years ago.

When I could still see! :scrutiny:

Anyway, I think I will try it.

If it doesn't work, I can sand it off and start over polishing.

Right side pattern - LIBERTY & JUSTICE:


Left side pattern - LIBERTY or DEATH:


I will flip the file reverse so the lettering is right, and print it on iron-on transfer paper, then iron it on the scales for lines to follow & scratch.

The actual Scrimshaw will not be as bright, more subdued colors, kinda old looking.

But colors none the less, maybe. :confused:


September 19, 2015, 12:11 AM
Did you draw that? That is awesome!

September 19, 2015, 12:23 AM
Draw it?

I can't hardly Draw a Beer, if somebody else taps the keg! :D

No, it was a photo I got off the the AlGorenet.
Then I used Microsoft Publisher to add the ribbon and lettering.

Then scaled it down small enough to fit the handle.

Then copied & pasted & flipped the right side for the left side, and changed the wording.

Been fooling with 6 different Eagles for a week trying to get all the angles of the dangles to fit between the pins and such.

There are a lot of Eagle drawings out there!!

25,000,000 to be exact!! :what:

PS: Still gotta saw another slab off the Steenk'n deer skull for the other Talon tomorrow.

Haven't got the smell out of the house yet from the first one.
And it ate up a brand new 80" metal cutting band-saw blade the first dance!!


September 19, 2015, 08:52 AM
This is a great thread, your work is impressive. I have made quite a few knives but have never gone this far with the detail and decorative work. Its great to see how some of it is done.

September 19, 2015, 06:53 PM
Wow my sheaths are plain vanilla.

Real intersted in seeing the fork become a belt clip.

Keep the teaching coming my frend.

September 19, 2015, 07:43 PM
Well, here's where I got the idea from, the internet.



But, It might not be enough on this real big knife!!

The stainless Steel restaurant fork is mighty darn rigid & strong though, so it might work??

(Really rather find an old 1800's Sterling Silver, Wm. Rogers fancy one though!)

But on the other hand, the stainless one wouldn't tarnish in contact with the leather?


Ron James
September 19, 2015, 08:05 PM
I've been around the world twice , been to a county fair and watched a goat roping, but I would have never thought to use a fork in such a manner. I was wondering how you were going to do it, amazing !:cool:

Shanghai McCoy
September 19, 2015, 08:47 PM
Neat idea.
I'm guessing it's riveted to the sheath and then the little cover is stitched on..?

September 19, 2015, 08:49 PM
I like the fact RC that you just happened to have an old deer skull laying around. My dad has a basement full of old interesting things. Yours sounds like it might be even more interesting.

September 19, 2015, 10:27 PM
As a matter of fact, I do have a few 'possibles ' in the basement.

'Its possible I can make something out of that some day????' :confused:

Every time I throw something like that away?
I need it for something a week later!! :D

I found that deer skull in a dry creek bed about 25 years ago.
Used most of the antlers on knife handles, but kept the skull, just in case!!

Can't comment on how the fork would be attached yet, as I haven't got that far on thinking about it yet.

But probably a fork, with a matching fork reinforcement on the other side of a leather patch.
Then clamped together on the leather with stainless steel screws.

Then the 'patch, sewn on the back of the sheath so the blade isn't exposed to the steel screws.

Kinda the same way I do keeper buttons, snaps, etc. on the other side of the inside of a sheath or holster.

Like these.
Nothing inside the sheath but leather.

Any Hardware that could scratch the blade is hidden inside the 'patch' on the outside.




September 20, 2015, 09:56 AM
Neat idea. Reminds me of how the 10/22 rifle crowd was hot a couple of years back for spoon and fork handles bent around the trigger guard with the tail hanging out sort of Browning high wall like as a magazine release.

The family crest looking art on the example really ads to the look of the whole thing.

Would like some details on how the example was made. Not happening I guess.

rc will no doubt keep us informed of how he does it.

Thanks and keep going on this one , rc.


September 20, 2015, 11:58 AM
Where do ya'll think the "spoon" pocket clip came from?

RC's twice your age and had a better memory for these things.:D

September 20, 2015, 03:13 PM
You know RC, after seeing this, I think I'm going to sign up for some blacksmith classes locally. After you take a few of the basic classes, you can then take their knife forging class. I think it would be cool to make my own hunting knife. After that, I'd have to take their leather working class to make the holster and a sling for the rifle.

Smokey Joe
September 20, 2015, 05:08 PM
Sheepdog--Where you find out where these classes might be held??

September 20, 2015, 05:37 PM
Look at the American Bladesmiths Society website for a schedule of classes on forging. I was the safety officer for the ABS Youth Hammer-In for a decade and we taught a couple of hundred kids to forge.

September 20, 2015, 08:22 PM
No progress on the knife today.
Instead, mowing the yard & running errands.

(Besides, the scrimshaw has me spooked!!)

But I worked out the silverware belt clip in my dreams last night! :D
So, I made it this evening.

This is the back, which will be glued & sewn tight against the back of the sheath.
I silver-braised part of the fork handle back on for extra support inside the sheath patch.

(Probably do it again with a complete fork so it won't be as thick in the sandwich.)


Front side, showing sorta how it will look.
(Thinking about doing some file work like I put on the complete fork on it to before I put it on.)


I made the clip extra long, (3 1/4"), to fit a pistol belt.

It will also allow a left side Cross-Draw angle tilt on a regular pants belt.

Parts are screwed to the leather with 6-32 Stainless Steel flat-head screws.

MISTAKE #4: Should have drilled and counter-sink the holes before bending the fork double!
No room to drill them!! :eek:

Had to heat the fork red hot and bend it to the left to drill the right hole.
Then heat it red hot again and bend it to the right to drill the left hole.

Then heat it red hot again and bend it back in the middle!! :banghead:


September 20, 2015, 09:56 PM
broken record here but Nice work RC. looks awesome.

September 20, 2015, 10:58 PM
If the fork isn't solid sterling file work will go through the plate and you'll end up with an unsatisfactory result.

You can always do the scrim later after you've completed the project. Anyway, we'd like to see it complete before you start embellishing.

September 20, 2015, 11:47 PM
* I'll stop posting progress pictures every day.

* Scrimshaw will have to be done before the handle is attached to the knife.
(In case I screw it up, and have to flat-sand the handle again to erase the mistake.)

* Forks are not silver-plate.

* They are solid stainless steel, cheap restaurant flatware.

* They are not silver plated.

PS: Another revolting development today.
My old Dremel tool shot craps while I was polishing the inside of the clip!

Guess I need to buy a new one before I finish this knife!
Everything I have is wore out!!!


Gun Master
September 20, 2015, 11:58 PM
If it works, well.........

September 21, 2015, 03:15 AM
Why would you stop posting pics? We love them and the progress reports!

September 21, 2015, 06:23 AM

Things to do list:

1) Buy a new Dremel.
2) Continue to post pics and updates.
3) Post lots of pics when finished.

September 21, 2015, 09:54 AM
* I'll stop posting progress pictures every day.

Why? The posting of the steps you're following are valuable and interesting.

* They are solid stainless steel, cheap restaurant flatware.

No plate to file through so no problem there.

Scrimshaw will have to be done before the handle is attached to the knife.
(In case I screw it up, and have to flat-sand the handle again to erase the mistake.)

I'm not a fan of risk or scrim in most cases since I avoid "gilding the lily" for most the most part. Of course it makes sense that you could just sand off the scrim if there's a slip.

September 21, 2015, 08:16 PM
On sheaths.
The few I have made I have copied an existing design for a pattern and cut it out of a flat sheet of leather.
For stitching I use waxed string or braided dental floss.

Now take us to school :)

September 21, 2015, 11:12 PM
I will do the sheath design & construction, but its going to be a while.

I have been screwing around with the deer horn dangles mounts half a day.
Still not happy with them.
Broke one today! :banghead:

So I drilled them and put a S/S wire down the center of them.

But I'm getting tired of messing with them.
And I still have to polish them out!!

Deer skull 'Eagle Talons:


Picked up some Needles at the vet today for scrimshawing:



September 21, 2015, 11:23 PM
You are a true craftsman RC. I've made quite a few sheaths and holsters but never tried a knife before. You've inspired me to try it one day, soon. Thanks for the inspiration.

September 21, 2015, 11:25 PM
Another project started tonight.

A homemade Scrimshaw tool!!

Tore up a cheap electric toothbrush to see what makes it tick.
Tunes out the motor makes the drive recropicate front to back.

So, if I can figure out how to harness it to one Hypo needle (bushing) inside another one (Cutter), I can make a scrimshaw machine.

Maybe??? :confused:

(Kinda like a tattoo tool.
Only for scratching lines in Micarta knife scales!)



PS: still playing with eagle designs.
Think I'm going with a white (lighter color) eagle photo for the right, Liberty side.
And a much darker one for the left death side.


September 22, 2015, 02:50 AM
That's cool RC! When you're done you can give me a tattoo! :D

September 22, 2015, 09:05 AM
Scrimshaw machine? The scrimshanders I've known use carbide tipped scribes because of the material hardness they're scribing. I've never seen a powered scrim graver outside of the expensive ones demoed at Blade Show.

September 22, 2015, 09:08 AM
This has been an interesting thread. I'm always interested in how others go about doing what they do.

" Every thing I have is wore out". Know what you mean and in my case it includes me.

September 23, 2015, 01:06 AM
More bad luck today!
I took the burnt up Dremel apart and got the shaft out of it.

Decided to make a dremel chuck adaptor for my 1/4" Fordom Flex-Shaft tool as I couldn't find a Dremel I liked in town today.
And ain't got time to wait ordering one!

So, while I was turning the 7mm shaft down to .250", my mini-Lathe stripped a gear in the cross-feed, and locked up tighter then a gnats south end.

Two hours later I got the gear out of the lathe gear box, and its well beyond repair, so I will have to order a new gear from China!!

Anyway, I got it running again without the cross-feed working, and finished the chuck adaptor.

Now, the 1/4" Fordom tool with take 1/8", 3/32"and 1/16" Dremel bits & tiny carbide dental burs!

And that folks, is all I accomplished on the knife project today!

Like I said, it seems Everything I got is wore out!!! :banghead:



September 23, 2015, 02:53 AM
I've just been catching up on this thread after a few days.

For the soldered inlays...attempting to "clean up" a solder job by reapplying heat is a very touchy job that rarely works well. I'm speaking from years of electronics experience and a fair share of plumbing work along the way.

In general, if you want a better, or "perfect", repair job you're far better off starting from scratch.

Also, since you're using silver solder, your attempt to use desoldering wick may have been doomed to failure in the first place because it wasn't intended for such high temperature desolder work using a torch. Your best bet for this would be a metal tipped vacuum pump desoldering tool. You can get them with a squeeze bulb which does the vacuum sucking action.

That said, here are my recommendations:

1. Remove the inlay and excess solder by carefully milling it out. You already have the setup to do this, since you created the guard in the first place. Then repeat the installation process using a new braided wire.

2. Get a metal tipped vacuum desoldering tool with a squeeze bulb. Do a practice run or three on some scrap pieces soldered together to get the hang of it. Then quickly heat your guard and suck the excess off. After cooling and cleaning the guard, and maybe buffing, inspect the inlay and evaluate the need to carefully reheat and resolder as required to restore proper appearance.

Either method, I'd recommend fabricating an aluminum heat sink that you can clamp to the opposite side of the guard. Aluminum makes an outstanding heat sink and, unlike water, doesn't evaporate or spread out into a wet mess. Make it a relatively large (compared to the guard) block of Aluminum and clamp it to the guard and tang firmly. You could do this by milling out a block to allow the guard face and tang to lay flush against the Aluminum block and clamp it in place using a small C-Clamp on the tang. Maximum, firm surface area contact is the goal.

Such a heat sink would be excellent anytime you're doing such temperature sensitive work as this, where you're worried about affecting previously soldered work.

September 23, 2015, 03:38 AM
Yea, that's what I should do.
And I appreciate the advice!

But I don't have the resources to do all that.

I'm down to about the last of the nickel-silver wire, and don't plan to buy any more.
And I don't have enough of it left to do it again.
(Trying to use up the last of the knife-making supplies on this last knife.)

Plus, I don't have a real milling machine to do a big fitted aluminum heat sink.
(Or a spare block of aluminum.)

Bottom line?
It is what it is, and it will be what it turns out to be.

Good, or bad?

Warts & all.


September 23, 2015, 07:54 AM
I was away from this thread for a while (running charters back in the saltwater portions of the Everglades...) so I just read everything I've missed and noted something y'all might want to remember. I do a lot of epoxy work building fishing rods (as well as lure-making) so I'm pretty familiar with its properties. Yes, acetone will clean up any extra epoxy - but acetone will also remove any nearby finishes (it's a universal solvent...). To be careful not to mess up anything else I always use plain old rubbing alcohol for cleanup. It will remove mixed epoxy from your work (and your hands) with no ill effects. If needed you can also mix a few drops of detergent (I like Joy) with that alcohol for really thorough cleaning of painted, varnished, etc surfaces without causing any problems. Epoxies (fast, slow, or medium cure) are great adhesives but need to be removed before they set up if clean up is needed.

September 23, 2015, 11:52 AM
Alcohol is all I have ever used for uncured epoxy cleanup.

Works great!!

Acetone works pretty good for getting cured CA (Super-Glue) off your fingers.
As does nail polish remover.


September 23, 2015, 03:58 PM
Here's a trick with CA that's saved me a lot of trouble... Whenever I'm working with it I keep a custard bowl with a bit of water nearby... any CA adhesive is killed dead in it's tracks by simply dunking your fingers in the water... I use lots of Krazy Glue as a commercial fly tier so I've had my share of mis-adventures with the stuff.... After the 'kill' you'll still have it on your fingers that's when acetone or lacquer thinner comes into play (but it sure is nice to be able to kill its glue properties before that becomes a difficulty when you're doing production work).

September 23, 2015, 09:16 PM
On my knives there is nothing else to mess up so I use lots of acetone. Works great on lots of stuff, was a tip from a longtime knife maker. I do use alcohol on lighter stuff like getting marker off of knife edges after sharpening.

September 24, 2015, 12:29 AM
Progress today?
Almost none!

Worked on the lathe gearbox all morning and finally got it working without the carriage feed working until I can get a new gear.
My back went out this morning, so of course I dropped everything I picked up, and had to bend over a get it out from under a bench! :banghead:

Linen Ivory Micarta!
Should have ordered some Paper Micarta or Imitation Ivory slabs!

(My god! I wish you could still get that old Westinghouse paper Ivory Micarta now!!)

I have wet sanded it 15 times, and every time I get to the final buffing, it leaves black streaks in the fibers.

So, I scrubbed it sparkly white with a toothbrush and Crest.
Then sealed it with CA Adhesive, and wet sanded it again.

Then buffed it out.
Still a couple of spots I need to seal again!! :banghead:

CA Sealed & Buffed out:


Here is where we are at 11:00 PM tonight:



September 24, 2015, 12:50 AM
Also played with blade etching with DC power today.

I got some free stencil mask from an art & sign place yesterday.

Cut a stencil and hooked up a 18V power supply from an old door-bell.

Using vinegar & salt water, with a Q-Tip electrode.

It eats into cold rolled steel in less then a minute, with a very deep dark etch.

However, I am unable to cut a stencil with legible lettering that small!


I found a Trophy shop in town that says they can Laser Engrave any lettering I want on the blade for around $25 bucks!!

What a deal!! :D


September 24, 2015, 08:11 AM
Serious info and education in the last 2 posts.

September 24, 2015, 09:47 AM

I'd be frightened to screw things up gilding the lily when you have something that looks perfect.

September 24, 2015, 07:18 PM
Well, there comes a point when I KNOW a knife is done. RC hasn't reached that point yet but he will. :)

September 24, 2015, 11:47 PM
Progress Report today:

I tried the Iron-On T-Shirt Transfer material to get the pattern on the handle.


Didn't work on Formica / Micarta.



September 24, 2015, 11:51 PM
Then, I tried using Parchment Oven paper.
This really works on wood projects!!


Printed it and rubbed it on with a smooth end tool.

Didn't work on sanded Formica! :banghead:


So, I'm left with hand-drawing the eagles if I'm gonna do it, I guess??

PS: Using the old linen Mircata I had was a huge Mistake.

I sanded it clear down to bare surface again today and am still getting black buffer streaks in it.
Must have got some bad Micarta scales way back when, as I have never had any trouble with it before like this!

Thinking I may have to Discard the handle and start over again with good quality imitation Ivory.


September 24, 2015, 11:54 PM
Maybe some carbon paper and trace what you have.

September 24, 2015, 11:58 PM

Where the heck do you find carbon paper anymore??

I think I looked for it at Office Depot a couple of years ago and they didn't know what I was talking about!!


September 25, 2015, 12:00 AM
The small office supply store in my town has it but you may be able to make your own.

September 25, 2015, 12:06 AM
Oh Yea!
Here is another important knife-making tip!

Don't hold on to a burnt-out Dremel tool motor out of the housing and turn it on!!

The cooling fan will cut your finger-tip off when it decides to work again suddenly at 35,000 RPM instantly.

Before you can turn loose of it!! :banghead:



September 25, 2015, 12:12 AM
That stinks. I reached into my knife drawer once and took off the tip of a finger on one of my leather working knives.

On the carbon paper, take one of your grandkids crayons and color the back of a sheet of paper to make transfer paper. A grease pencil would probably work better though.

September 25, 2015, 12:59 AM
Another late night brainstorm!
If the Linen Micarta wants to look Dirty instead of white after buffing?

Lets Play Dirty!! :neener:

I took another piece of it, and died half of it with Tandy Lt. Brown leather die, then Sealed the other half with Tru-Oil.


When it dries tomorrow, I will buff it out and see what it looks like.

Old real aged Ivory looks like this!


I can scrimshaw cracks and lines in it without a pattern!! :D

Still want to do the the Eagles though!!


September 25, 2015, 02:18 AM
The one time I worked with white micarta I really had a hard time getting all the marks and buffer streaks off of it. Hand sanding is all I can recommend if buffing with white compound doesn't work.

That dye job looks good RC.

September 25, 2015, 07:08 AM
I don't advise faking cracks to make synthetic look like aged ivory. It never looks right.

September 25, 2015, 11:05 PM
Progress today:

Again, not much.
Still fighting the Ivory Micarta.

I did a Dye test on a new chunk of it and it turned out pretty decent I guess.

Dye Test:
Real elephant ivory in the middle, test scale next to the dye bottle.


Dyed handle before sanding & buffing:



September 25, 2015, 11:14 PM
Then, I wet sanded the dye off and duffed it.
No buffer dirt streaks now, but it still looks nasty!

Not near as good as the test piece:


I'm about to toss it in the trash and start over with paper Mircarta or Tru-Ivory.
If they still make it??
Already wasted a week on it trying to get the buffer streaks out of it!!

Made the silver inlaid Sam Browne Keeper Post for the sheath today, and finished the belt clip file work.

Man Jewelry for the handle and sheath is pretty much done!


(On a positive note.)
I found two perfectly good Dremel tools on the junk on the shelf I forgot I had.
One was set up as a router, and the other one is a cordless Black & Decker with three batteries that work!! WOOHoo!!
My luck is changing!


September 26, 2015, 05:59 PM
I've got some Cocobolo around somewhere that I could send you for this project, if you want. Wednesday I can mail it.

September 26, 2015, 06:25 PM
How much Westinghouse do you need?

September 26, 2015, 07:58 PM
One pair of 3/8" x 5" x 1 1/2".


September 26, 2015, 11:25 PM
Progress today?

Not much again.

* Took the blade to the Laser engraver and crossed my fingers!
He said no guarantees, but he thought he could do it?? :what:


Supposed to be done Wednesday.

* Sanded and hand rubbed the handle with MeGuiars Clear-coat polish, and it looks pretty good.
Kinda Antique looking without looking gaudy.

* Figured out how to transfer the scrimshaw patterns I think.
I traced the photos on frosted clear vinyl, then put a white sheet of paper under it and took a photo of the black outline.



September 26, 2015, 11:45 PM
Then, this is the photo of the pattern.


* Which I can shrink up in Publisher to fit the handle.

* Then, you print it in reverse on plain paper using T-Shirt Transfer printer setting.
* Cover the handle with thin Elmer's Glue.
* Stick the pattern to it.
* Let it dry.
* Then wet the paper and rub & peel off the paper down to the image on the handle.

Testing on a old piece of Formica counter top to simulate the Micarta:


I'll Bee Doing Some Fancy Scratch'n now!! :evil:


September 27, 2015, 12:10 AM
Good for you RC!

Shanghai McCoy
September 27, 2015, 12:01 PM
Just got home and getting caught up. Glad to read that things are getting along better rc. Keep up the good work Sir.

September 28, 2015, 11:40 PM
Progress Report.
Still not much.

I'm still hung up on transferring Scrimshaw patterns to handle in a usable media.

* Best method I have come up with so far is print the pattern on glossy photo paper.
* Cut it out and glue it to the micarta.
* Then wet the back and peel & rub all the paper backing off you can get off until you can see the pattern.

(There has to be a better way!!??)
Cause this isnt working!
The photo film image it too thick & tough to scratch through!!

So, this was a test tonight on Formica counter top material.

Top of photo is pattern glued on:
Bottom is actual practice scrim I did tonight:
(Scratched & filled with Acrylic paint)

Gotta be way better then that on the knife handle!!! :(


Here is the first & last time I did Scrimshaw in 1983 when I could still see real Good!
(I am pretty sure I just drew the pattern on with a 0.5mm lead pencil.)


But that was then, and this is now!


September 29, 2015, 12:06 AM
Might have just figured it out!!

Using a laser printed target I had.

I cut out two images, taped them to the Formica.

And ironed them on!!!

(Won't work with my ink jet printer!)

IT WORKED pretty good for a rush test job!!

So, I'll take my patterns to Kinko's and make Laser photo copies out of them!!

Then iron them on the knife handle!! :D



September 29, 2015, 08:58 AM
Sweet knife RC! My dad made a few in his day. I always loved sitting on that stool and watching him work on the lathe and mill as a kid. I learned alot from his ''tutoring'' while he worked. I'm still learning from him, he's 94 yrs old, and comes over and ''tinkers'' with me in the reloading room/shop. Thanks for keeping us up on your project. It sure brings back great memories..

September 29, 2015, 12:16 PM
Impressive work RC! Not only are you a walking encyclopedia of reloading knowledge, but a skilled knife maker as well. Excellent work!!

September 29, 2015, 09:16 PM
Progress today:

Still working on some good way to transfer Scrimshaw patterns to the handle'
Took patterns to a photo-copy place today and got three sheets of patterns printed by color laser printer.
We will see how that goes tomorrow.

I got the blade back from the trophy shop after they Laser Engraved it.

Cost me $38.50 + Tax, $40.85,, which is more than I had in the whole knife before. :eek:

But I think it was worth it!
Came out pretty good I thought! :scrutiny:




September 29, 2015, 09:55 PM
Wow that engraving is nice! You could've used stencils but you would've had to order them, a bunch too, and wait for them and then have a bunch left over you didn't need. It cost a lot this way but really came out nice.

September 29, 2015, 10:59 PM
Laser printed paper patterns, taped down and Ironed On.


Peeled off, not so good!:
But I Touched them up with a Pentel 0.5 drafting pencil.


Good enough for Gooberment Work, I guess?
If I can scratch them good!! :confused:

Eagle's head still looks like a cartoon though!! :banghead:


October 1, 2015, 11:42 PM
Progress report, 10-1-15:

The linen Micarta is defective!
Very porous, as the fibers aren't totally impregnated with epoxy like it should be.

Its kicking my butt trying to scrimshaw it!

Scrimshaw Tools:


Test Eagle head (Lower right corner) on Formica came out decent enough, but not dark enough.

The handle will be scribed deeper.:



October 1, 2015, 11:46 PM
Scrim paper pattern taped on, and lettering cut & Scratched in:


Eagle head cut, and Words Inked:



October 1, 2015, 11:52 PM
Scrim all scratched and inked & Painted:


Cleaned it with fine 0000 steel wool, & Disaster struck!!!

Ink bleeding into the surrounding Micarta linen fiber and Ruined the whole thing!!


All I can do now is sand it all off and start over?
Or, Throw the whole Dang handle away and start over with some decent Ivory Micarta!

I'm very inclined to be leaning that way tonight!! :banghead:

But, I may sand it off, seal it with clear Krylon acrylic, and try it one more time??


October 2, 2015, 01:10 AM
From your earlier statement about the quality of the micarta I would be inclined to scrap it and start over. Maybe some horn or something, I happen to like wood but I know that's not the look you want. I don't know much about it though except that I haven't had good luck when I've used micarta.

Whatever you do will look fantastic I'm sure.

October 2, 2015, 02:07 AM
I'd sand it and try again - that's too much work to throw away. Hope it works out!

October 2, 2015, 02:33 AM
I probably will sand it One More Time and seal it with krylon clear and try again.

But there is something basically, intreniscly wrong with this Micarta.
It's evil!!

I've probably made 75 or more knife handles using Mircarta over the years, and never seen anything like this porous stuff!

The only other bad batch I got was 20 years ago.

It was made with fiber-glass cloth instead of cotton linen.

And it would take the teeth off a carbide saw blade in one cut!!!

But it wasn't porous like this crappy stuff!

Not sure I want it on this knife??
It will pick up dirt and hand oil and be black instead of white 30 years from now.


October 2, 2015, 07:20 AM
I'd stop trying to scrim it if you know you have a material issue.

I'm not a scrimshaw fan so I'm biased against it for the most part.

October 2, 2015, 09:30 PM
Finally gave up and called it good tonight. :barf:

Call it Folk Art, or something kind like that!! :uhoh:

Right side done:


Left side done:


Or maybe not???

The lettering came out WAY too Dark.
Probably sand it off and do it for the forth time. :banghead:


October 2, 2015, 10:01 PM
Looks pretty good to my eyes, maybe a little bleeding around the lettering.

October 2, 2015, 10:17 PM

That's been the whole problem from the get go.

This crappy Micarta is very porous, and normal India ink used in scrimshaw bleeds out into the fibers real bad!!!

I did the eagles with acrylic paint, it doesn't bleed, and came out like I wanted.

Think I will sand all the lettering off down past the bleeding and do it again with acrylic paint tomorrow.


October 3, 2015, 12:27 PM
Hopefully it didn't bleed down too far.

October 3, 2015, 02:36 PM
No, mostly bleeding out the sides in the top layer of linen.

I took it down last night with a orbital sander, and re-scrimed it.

Looks a little better now.


Maybe glue it up tonight??


October 3, 2015, 02:38 PM
Very nice, can't wait for the finished product.

October 3, 2015, 03:01 PM
Using a laser printed target I had.

I cut out two images, taped them to the Formica.

And ironed them on!!!I haven't been following this thread closely for a few days. This is exactly what I was going to recommend. The toner powder in a laser printer is actually a plastic powder and it's "fixed" using heat which melts it to the paper. That means it can be re-melted and transferred to another surface.

If you have a pretty good printer, you can sometimes print the pattern repeatedly onto a single piece of paper and then there's more thickness which makes it easier to transfer by ironing.

You can also use this technique for metal etching since the ironed on material is plastic and won't be affected by most metal etching solutions/acids. Just invert the image so that the design is white (no toner) and the background is black.

October 3, 2015, 03:36 PM
Turned out, it worked on my test piece of Formica counter-top.

But it didn't work on the Micarta.

I couldn't get it hot enough to stick without scorching the white Micarta!!

I finally just printed them on Parchment paper and cut right through to pattern.


October 3, 2015, 03:58 PM
Scrimshaw...this makes me want to try my hand at something for our 20th anniversary coming up in January...hmmm...

October 3, 2015, 06:18 PM
Turned out, it worked on my test piece of Formica counter-top.

But it didn't work on the Micarta.

I couldn't get it hot enough to stick without scorching the white Micarta!!

I finally just printed them on Parchment paper and cut right through to pattern.It might work for your metal etching.

October 3, 2015, 10:03 PM
28 Days into it!

Handle Hypoxia!!

Epoxied the handle on tonight.

Tang, guard, and handle cross-hatched with Dremel cut-off wheel.
(Gives better epoxy bond.)


Ready to Glue!

(Blade, guard, & handle totally mask off with electrical tape, blue tape, and Saran Wrap.)


Anyone still think its going to pull out of the handle if it gets stuck in something?? :scrutiny:


October 3, 2015, 10:05 PM
Epoxy mixed and spread on everything.
Hole stuffed full!

Clamp keeps it from leaking out yet, until I'm ready for it to leak out!!


Clamped up!
(Clamp is just all-thread and wood blocks.)



October 3, 2015, 10:11 PM
Weep hole in lanyard hole 'Weeping' excess epoxy as tang is forced in!!


Cleaned up with Alcohol and curing over-night:
(Blade down so any excess air bubbles can rise and leak out through the weep hole.)
This is as close to a 100% epoxy bond that I know how to get!!


After the Epoxy cures, I will take the tape off, re-drill the thong hole liner hole, and epoxy the liners in place.

The big unveiling will be tomorrow!
(Then, its time to start on the sheath!)


Shanghai McCoy
October 3, 2015, 10:38 PM
Looking forward to the big reveal rc, and that handle clamp has made it to the top of my "handy thing to build list"... :)
BTW, how are you fixed for sheath leather ? Let me know if you need some.

October 3, 2015, 10:44 PM
I think I have enough Herman Oak 6-7 oz tooling leather to do this sheath.

But after that, who knows if I will do another one??
Trying to use up what I got without buying anything else!!

Thanks for the offer!
I'll let you know if I need some more!!


October 4, 2015, 12:22 AM
I'm really interested in the build of the sheath since I know nothing about it except how Loveless did it. I'm hoping to expand my knowledge. :)

October 4, 2015, 12:46 AM
Initial Clean-up before the epoxy fully hardened.

Took the tape off after 3 1/2 hours at 11:30 tonight (24 hour Epoxy) and cleaned the handle / blade joint with a sharp curved eXacto knife.

The Epoxy is only half cured at this point and still soft like hard gum, so it will peel off easily.
(But firm enough to trim it off the joint cleanly.)

Makes for way less sanding and buffing in all the wrong places you can't sand & buff later!!



October 4, 2015, 01:49 AM
I'm really interested in the build of the sheath since I know nothing about it except how Loveless did it. I'm hoping to expand my knowledge. :)
There are several types of sheaths. Depends on the knife and how you plan to use it. I did a video series on my YouTube channel of a simple fold over for a Mora Companion. I can post a link if you like.

October 4, 2015, 02:09 AM
I did a video series on my YouTube channel of a simple fold over for a Mora Companion. I can post a link if you like.


October 4, 2015, 02:56 AM
Here you go, I'm not a professional but I do quite a lot of holsters and sheaths. Let me know what you think, I like criticism, good and bad.

October 4, 2015, 01:39 PM
Thank you!

October 4, 2015, 03:55 PM
Finished it this morning!!


Choil hold:


Full grip:


Balance point is right on the front edge of the guard:


Blade length = 7 1/2".
OAL = 12 3/4".
Total weight = 3/4 pound.

Balance is so good it handles like an extension of your hand!!


October 4, 2015, 04:06 PM
Absolutely beautiful.

October 4, 2015, 04:24 PM
exquisite and a moto after my own heart. Kudos to you sir ! :)

October 4, 2015, 05:51 PM
Way to go and good job RC!

Shanghai McCoy
October 4, 2015, 08:23 PM
That turned out nice rc. And the methods "tricks" and problem solving shared during the building of this knife have helped us all.
Thanks for bringing us along on this ride. :)

October 4, 2015, 08:25 PM
Balance point is right on the front edge of the guard


October 4, 2015, 08:50 PM
I like it. Talent and craftsmanship shared and passed on.

Smokey Joe
October 4, 2015, 09:09 PM
RC--Stunningly good-looking knife! If you had only one more in you, that was a 5-star way to go out! May it be admired by many, and never needed for defense!

Thank you very much for sharing with us, all the techniques you used. Perhaps one of us will come up with a worthy follow-up.

October 4, 2015, 10:34 PM

O. K., here is how I do it.

I could be right, or wrong, but this is the way I learned to do it over the last 60 years with no internet, and no instructors!

1. You need a working pattern before you even think about cutting Expensive leather.

2. I prefer grey cardboard I used to steal from work, because it is heavy enough to trace around, and it holds it's shape forever.

3. It also has a directional grain like leather, so you can get a good idea how to lay out the parts on leather. It bends easier with the grain then against it.

4. I trace the blade on the cardboard, then add another line at however wide I want the internal welt to be using a common school compass.

5. This one will be a 3/8" internal welt, (Internal Welt keeps the knife from cutting the stitching) because I will use Very closely spaced double-row stitching.
( For appearance, not strength..
One row of stitching on a glued seam will hold anything the leather will hold.)

So, Here WeGo!

Blade traced on cardboard, and welt extended with school compass set at 3/8":


Patterns cut out of cardboard:


Patterns laid out on leather to get best use of space:
(They will be traced with lead pencil on the leather and cut out.)


Here is my box of old holster & sheath patterns.
I keep every one I ever made!
But it seems I never use the same one twice?? :banghead:



October 5, 2015, 12:34 AM
Sheath Parts traced on wetted leather:
(Damp or wetted leather shows tracing lines much better then when dry.)


Parts cut out of damp leather:
(Damp or wetted leather is much kinder on your cutting tools then dry leather!)


Holes punched in all the right places:

(I hope!!)


PS: Already got a PM wanting to know what the black handled knife was in the photo's?

Well, its an old straight razor I bought for $1 at a flea market 30 years ago, with a broken celluloid handle!

So, I made a new Ebony fixed handle for it, with Nickle-Silver pins!
It cuts wet leather like a laser!!

Never got a Round-Tuit to make a sheath for it.
So it resides in a 'cardboard sheath' in the leather tools box!



October 5, 2015, 04:59 AM
How do you make the stitching holes? A 4 prong punch? I use to drill the holes with my drill press when my wife was making my sheaths.

October 5, 2015, 06:45 AM

Love the final outcome with your knife; definitely worth the effort through all of the trials and tribulations. Great to see you had at least one more knife left in you. And thanks for sharing the step-by-step process with us. It was quite informative and very educational in both it's attention to detail and with it's illustrated format.

October 5, 2015, 09:11 AM
Saw your gluing clamp and recognized it immediately. I have several very similar home-made clamps that I use for gluing up cork handles on fishing rods that I'm building (mine all have a center hole for the blank). I have the luxury of a quick lacquer thinner cleanup after clamping since the cork rings will still need to be sanded down into shape after the epoxy cures out. A few threaded rods along with washers and nuts (I use wing nuts mostly) set into a couple of pieces of wood and you have a pretty versatile clamping system....

Love the finished product...

October 5, 2015, 11:13 PM
10-5-15 Progress:

I got the sheath pretty much figured out today and got started on it.

These are leather tools used to bevel edges, stitching groover, Stitch spacing wheels, etc.


This is the Stitching Groover in action:
(This puts the stitching level or below the surface of the leather and prevents thread abrasion from rubbing on stuff.)


Using Formica contact cement to glue welt to sheath face:


Stopping point tonight:
* Parts are edge finished on belt sander, and stitching holes marked.

* Belt clip attachment plate is epoxied on back of keeper strap.

* Sam Browne stud is permanently attached to the sheath face.

* Latigo Lacing is in for the 'dangles', and edge dressing & pre-oil finished where I can't get too later!


Now, I'm tired!!!!!


October 6, 2015, 01:00 AM
Not to be critical RC, but I believe I saw vegetable oil in that last pic. As I recall it will get rancid over time and ruin the sheath. Coconut or olive oil are safe to use, I prefer Neatsfoot oil on my leather work.

I can be wrong, God knows it wouldn't be the first time, probably not the last either. That sheath will look great.

October 6, 2015, 01:23 AM
I have been using pure vegetable oil on leather projects for about 25 years now.

(I'm using Herman Oak Vegetable tanned tooling leather, so why not!!)

It doesn't get rancid. (And it doesn't cause rust on knives or firearms.)

Because it is 'pure' with no contaminants or salt in it from cooking.

I learned about it from an old Wyoming saddle maker who was running a saddle making school here in Kansas years ago.

He told me his first job at a big tack & saddle supply place in Wyoming back in the 1930's was to transfer 55 gal barrels of pure vegetable oil into 4 oz bottles and label them 'Magic Super Trade Name Saddle Oil' to be sold at a 5,000% mark-up!!

Trust me.
Pure Vegetable oil works just fine for oil finishing fine leather!!

PS: Neatsfoot oil is prone to feeding bacteria, and rots cotton stitching over time.

(But, I'm using nylon thread, so that's not a factor even if I did use Neatsfoot oil.)

The other thing is, Neatsfoot oil softens leather over time.
Vegetable oil doesn't.

I don't want my fitted holsters & sheaths going soft on me down the road!

I could be wrong?
But it works for me just fine.


October 6, 2015, 01:29 AM
Thanks for setting me straight RC.

October 6, 2015, 10:23 PM
Progress 10-6-15:

Applying Fiebings Brown Edge Dressing to seal & color the raw edges:


Gluing belt clip patch on back of sheath with Formica contact cement:


Buffing in beeswax on edges to seal & polish them:


Drilling 1/16" holes for stitching:


All told, 362 stitch holes!!!

I Bee doing some stitching now!!! :D


October 6, 2015, 10:38 PM
Sewing with EZ-Stitch Saddlers Awl:

(Thread I use.)

(The way it works is, you run the needle through the hole, then pull it back about 1/4". That forms a loop on the off side you run the loose end of the thread though.)


(Like this!)


Closer up:
(Then you pull the needle back out with the thread from the other side.
Then pull the stitch tight, and center the lock-stitch in the center of the leather welt.)


MISTAKE #6, how to pick out stitching:
(After you sewed the back Latigo leather welt on without the Sam Browne keeper on the front!) :banghead:



October 6, 2015, 10:39 PM
We are finally stitching for real now!! :D



October 7, 2015, 01:23 PM
That looks awesome RC!

October 7, 2015, 04:38 PM
Progress today:

Three coats of Pure Vegetable Oil last night, and keeper post hole marked this morning:
(Note, leather is very dark, and it looks like to much oil.
It won't be tomorrow after it soaks in and redistributes throughout the leather interior!)


Using ancient Concho cutter to cut end of strap:
(Note flared over head on tool!!
How many dang concho's did they cut to beat the head over that bad??)


Applying Fiebings Leather Sheen acrylic finish to leather:




October 7, 2015, 04:51 PM
And its done!!

Front side:

Back side:
(Note drain hole in bottom of back face.)


Me strong side carry:

Me, cross-draw:


Hope this helps others in knife & sheath making.

And as they say at the end of the cartoon.

"Abuda, Abuda, That's all Folks!" :D


October 7, 2015, 04:53 PM
Sure you don't want to make sheaths for a hobby (and a little money)?

I have plenty of knives that need good veg tanned sheaths (and a passel of old silver flatware for you to use for clips).

October 7, 2015, 05:05 PM
this needs to be a sticky!!


Shanghai McCoy
October 7, 2015, 05:22 PM
That really turned out nice rc.
It's like we've been given an on-line course in knife and sheath making. Thanks for sharing it all with us.

October 7, 2015, 06:11 PM
Thanks for showing us how its done.

October 7, 2015, 06:59 PM
Serious thanks for the education.

October 7, 2015, 07:30 PM
Well, I said I was done?
So forgive me for posting three more better photo's!

The strap end will probably be shortened a little after the Sam Browne keeper gets to working a little easier!!

(Might have made it just a frog-hair too tight until the leather stretches a little.)




PS: Small bead on wrest thong is hand turned Elephant Ivory.
Large bead is deer horn with wood burned pattern in it.


October 7, 2015, 07:43 PM
Seriously, thanks for all the lessons contained in this thread! It definitely needs to be a sticky!

I'll be sending knives for sheaths once I get up and running. Only 10 or so at a time. :)

October 7, 2015, 08:00 PM
Very nice! Great looking set up!

October 7, 2015, 09:14 PM
I'm reworking a couple old knives, I may take a few ques form you. Most of the sheaths I've made were for protective purposes, these will be for pretty.

I really like what you've done on this project.

October 8, 2015, 06:53 AM

Fantastic job all the way around! Both the knife and sheath turned out great and the whole tutorial with the narrative and photos is invaluable for any one who wants to make knives. Thanks for making such an informative and helpful thread!

October 8, 2015, 04:32 PM
broken record here but nice work.
Pretty cool, the internet. All of us here have such wealth of knowledge to pull from like the likes of Mr. RC. and the gang. Thanks for sharing.

October 8, 2015, 07:24 PM
Very nice job. Was interesting to see you use a speedy stitcher sewing awl. I do a double needle saddle stitch, have never tried a lock stitch like that before.

October 8, 2015, 11:33 PM
I used to use the double-needle saddle-stitch thing.

But my god, it is hard on your hands pushing those needles through.

(In this sheath, 362 stitches, X 2 needles = 724 needles to push through!!)

I'd be out of band aids, and blood, & belly up on the floor before I got done doing that there deal!!

Do you use leather finger stalls, or gloves, or??

That's not to say the Speedy-Stitcher is without risks.
About 20 years ago, before I started pre-drilling stitch holes, I was sewing a very thick welt on a holster.

The needle broke in half, and nailed my left thumb to the cutting board about dead center, 1/8" in front of the cuticul.

Then the broken needle pulled out of the handle with the thread still in it!!

So I had to take my cutting board and my impailed thumb, with nylon thread hanging out of it, across the basement and find some nippers to cut the thread off, and pliers to pull it out!!

Eeeeeowwwww! :cuss:

(It's possible I wet my pants! but! I'm not owning up to it at this late date!!)

Needless to say, I pre-drill holes now!!


October 9, 2015, 03:54 AM
I still saddle stitch but I pre drill and use a pliers to pull needles through.

October 9, 2015, 09:24 AM
I received one of those stitchers from my Dad when he passed away. To date I've never figured out how to use it properly. Think it's time I gave it a second try. I would mostly be working with canvas or similar boat type stuff and it should come in handy (if I can figure out how to use it....).

Smokey Joe
October 9, 2015, 11:15 AM
Have used one for years, but on heavy leather, pre-punch the holes with an awl. Haven't ever tried pre-drilling the holes--That's probably a bit more precise. The lock stitch works really nice.

For light leather, canvas, & similar, I've acquired an old Singer treadle "shoe-patch" sewing machine, which of course also sews with a lock stitch. Wouldn't use that on really heavy leather, either. It is A LOT faster than the Speedy Stitcher.

October 10, 2015, 09:06 AM

To quote one of my favorite NCO's "OUTSTANDING!"

Thanks for all the effort you have put into this, and double thanks for the tips and neat photos.

I once stitched my thumb to a half bushel sack of rye seed with the power stitcher. We used a stitch that allowed one to sort of unzip the stitch sort of like one finds on feed sacks (whoa I forgot I need to go to the feed store TODAY, good thing I posted this) Hurt rather well and there was the whole "Don't Panic" panic. I eventually got the stitch to start unraveling after discovering I really needed to do more work with my left hand to be more dexterous. Pulling the loop back through my thumb was interesting. Got in trouble with the straw boss for bleeding all over a sack.......


October 10, 2015, 09:11 AM

I have used the little stitcher to repair horse blankets, re attaching nylon webbing straps to a nylon covered blankets. My only problem was getting bored and not paying attention so as to shove the needle through the strap, cover, blanket, and skin of left my attention right back onto what I was doing though.

Now off to the feed store.


October 10, 2015, 05:18 PM
I handle and sharpen lots of pretty good sized hooks (up to 10/0 with a 4" mill bastard file) and if my attention wanders... bandaids are needed as well....

October 11, 2015, 05:43 AM
I used to use the double-needle saddle-stitch thing.

But my god, it is hard on your hands pushing those needles through.

(In this sheath, 362 stitches, X 2 needles = 724 needles to push through!!)

I'd be out of band aids, and blood, & belly up on the floor before I got done doing that there deal!!

Do you use leather finger stalls, or gloves, or??

That's not to say the Speedy-Stitcher is without risks.
About 20 years ago, before I started pre-drilling stitch holes, I was sewing a very thick welt on a holster.

The needle broke in half, and nailed my left thumb to the cutting board about dead center, 1/8" in front of the cuticul.

Then the broken needle pulled out of the handle with the thread still in it!!

So I had to take my cutting board and my impailed thumb, with nylon thread hanging out of it, across the basement and find some nippers to cut the thread off, and pliers to pull it out!!

Eeeeeowwwww! :cuss:

(It's possible I wet my pants! but! I'm not owning up to it at this late date!!)

Needless to say, I pre-drill holes now!!

I punch my holes with a diamond shaped awl and double needle stitch, as described by Al Stohlman in his book on leather stitching. No leather fingers or anything, sometimes I use needle-nose pliers to help pull a needle through.
I have been experimenting with pre-drilling holes, and it works well if I have more than 3 layers of 9-10 oz leather. I don't have an awl with a narrow enough taper to punch the right sized hole, and still be stiff enough to go through that many layers. For just 2 or 3 layers, like a gun belt or something I find the awl does a nicer job, the holes shrink up tight around the stitches.That sheath does have a lot of stitches in it but I think my belt has a couple more.....:what:

October 12, 2015, 11:38 PM
After trying to do Scrimshaw on the 'Last Knife' project, I decided to try to get better at it.

So, I'm Trying to do scrimshaw necklaces for the grand daughters today.

Using 100 year old elephant Ivory scrap I had in reserve for 35 years!!

I works a heck of a lot better then the crummy Micarta I had on the knife!!!!

Pete (the dog) is done on one side for Paige, and Oliver (the Cornish Rex cat) is almost done on one side for Kaylee.

Now to do their names on the reverse sides!!


Next problem is, now I need to do two more for the other grand daughters, Tempy & Trinity!
But I have no photos of anything I could use for patterns??

They have a Black dog, but I don't think I can do a black dog!!

Another thing I learned.
Big scrimshaw would not show as many mistakes as postage stamp size scrimshaw!!! :uhoh:

One slip is half-way across the picture!!


October 22, 2015, 09:04 PM
Thank you for the education. I knew nothing about knife making, I learned a lot! Beautiful work. Sure beats my factory knives!

November 4, 2015, 02:06 AM

November 4, 2015, 02:15 AM
I think it's over with now.

I know I am!! :D


November 4, 2015, 03:56 AM
You're a very talented craftsman RC, absolutely wonderful, first rate work all the way through. Heirloom worthy and and work ready, you have made a wonderful piece of functional art. It certainly helps me one understand why custom knives & leatherwork cost what they do. As a matter of fact, after seeing the amount of labor that goes into such work, I'm amazed it doesn't cost even more.

I'd also like to add my vote to those calling for this thread to be made a sticky.

November 8, 2015, 02:15 PM
I'll say this RC, knowing that I don't know how difficult the knife was for you - It'd be a shame and a bit of a loss were this to be the "last" one.

Thanks tons for taking the time to photo document this for all of us. I know from doing this with cars and motorcycles that the photography and posting time is a significant intrusion into the actual task at hand.


November 8, 2015, 04:23 PM
Ohh, that's not his last.

December 22, 2015, 09:50 PM
Follow-up from post #140 in this thread.

Grew new skin on my fingertip in the last three months.

But, it still has little feeling in it, and tingles all the time, 24/7.

As small and insignificant as it appeared to be?

That's as bad and bothersome as I have ever hurt myself in 50 years of machine work, Gunsmithing and knife making.


If you enjoyed reading about "Maybe I got one more knife left in me?" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!