[ny32182]

The thread title pretty much says it all.

I've heard reports of people going to the range, drawing their carry gun, pulling the trigger, and getting nothing but a click. Eject the first round, and the rest of the mag functions fine. I understand this can be caused by lubricants penetrating he primer and rendering the chambered round useless.

Does anyone take any precautions against this, and how much of an issue is it, really? I used to use only CLP on my handguns, but recently started using tetra grease on the rails and only a little CLP where the barrel and slide mate together. This ensures that there is less free flowing CLP around, and also, I think the tetra grease does a better job on the rails anyway. I also fire my carry ammo every few trips to the range to ensure its not more than a few months old. Should this be enough to ensure I'm alright?

[Dorrin79]

well, it's subjective, but....

I slop CLP all over my guns when I clean them, and they then sit for a week or three with a round in the chamber until I take them to the range again.

I make a point of shooting off my magazine of 'loaded' ammo each time I go to the range, and I have never (in two years) had a FTF with my handguns (FTEs, etc. are another story :D )

I wouldn't think this is much of an issue with modern ammunition.

But hey, better safe than sorry, right? :cool:

[cratz2]

Pretty much the only thing I shoot anymore is copper-cladded centerfire handgun ammo and all I use to clean/lube/protect is FP-10. Used CLP before that. I'm pretty sure I've personally never had a first round not fire then had the rest of them go with no problems due to lube or cleaner but I've always been pretty picky about exactly how I coat my guns. Clean with excess, wipe down dry, then lightly apply again, coat evenly with a finger then pat down the excess.

Easy enough to try. Take a few rounds of good ammo, rub your lubricant of choice lightly over the cartridges, leave for a few days and see if they shoot.

[eddailey]

I clean and lube and then run a couple of dry patches through to soak up the excess from the chamber / barrel, I’ve NEVER had a problem.

Ed

[Ala Dan]

I've heard that WD-40 is the worst culprit for primers?
Don't konw that to be true; cuz I've used "Break Free
CLP" for several years now!

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

[Marshall]

,I've heard reports of people going to the range, drawing their carry gun, pulling the trigger, and getting nothing but a click. Eject the first round, and the rest of the mag functions fine

Interesting. Hmmm, dunno? I've never had that problem. Sounds like more of a mag/gun related issue.

[Third_Rail]

Geeze guys, I thought we went over this before....

The priming compound used in modern Boxer primers IS NOT made useless by oil/preservatives/liquids other than water-based. I know this for a fact, and I've tested it, too.

Now, you've "heard stories"? Ever seen that happen in front of you, right there? Friends with anyone who has had it happen?

Gee, kind of like how I've "heard stories" of a completely ceramic gun, right? :D

[larryw]

That's really interesting because I deactivate primers damaged during reloading by soaking them in WD-40, and I know for a fact that kills them dead dead dead (even after letting them 'dry' out). And I'm sure many commercial ranges will be interested to learn that as most soak "duds" in thin/penetrating oil to deactivate before disposal.

Water deactivates primers? Oh drat, something new to try... :D

[Island Beretta]

Interesting question and the answer is 'It depends..'

One of the pluses of CLP (and why I use it) is that it is proven to not deactivate primers..CLP as you know is a synthetic oil. This came out when the military tested it for use before adapting it. There are however quite a few oils/penetrants that deactivate primers with WD-40 being one of the more popular.

I know that hunters esp. in marshlands and swamps would sometimes lightly oil their rounds for obvious reasons and competition shooters do sometimes esp. those shooting .22LR to reduce jams.

[ny32182]

Hmm... so CLP is not supposed to be a problem then?

How about sealed vs unsealed primers?

How about Hoppes? I clean with hoppes, lube with (some) CLP. Either could be in contact with the primer when a round is chambered. I run dry patches in the bore to soak up the excess, but some could easily drip from the slide into the breech face area.

I think I'll do my own tests with some practice ammo and carry ammo. When my double tap gets here, I can soak the primers of those, some GA gold dots, and some WWB practice ammo in a mm or so of CLP and Hoppes for a few days, and see what happens.

[kokapelli]

I always thought CLP did not refer to a specific ingredient but meant the product was a Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative! Am I wrong?

I have been using DuPont "Performance Lubes" that spray on and leave a dry film. Since they set up and are completely dry in just a few minutes. They have not and I doubt they could damage a primer since they are completely dry! I'm not sure if these lubes will shorten the life of the pistol, but they sure keep the pistol lint free and clean when carried in my pocket.

[ny32182]

CLP is a brand name.

The "dryness" is what I like about the Tetra grease as well.

[dfariswheel]

Last fall, the American Rifleman did an article on primers, in which they say there's not much that will permanently deactivate a primer.

They say that as soon as whatever the contaminant is, as soon as it evaporates or drys out, the primer is active again.

Probably the most frightening thing I've ever read on the subject is written by multiple Vietnam tour Navy SEAL Harry Constance, in his book "Good To Go".

Constance says that when he came in off a job, he removed the plastic stock and forearm from his Stoner gun, and dropped the entire gun AND ALL THE LINKED AMMO, into a cut-off 55 gallon drum of gasoline.

After taking a shower, and having breakfast, he removed the gun and ammo, dried both off, then sprayed the gun AND AMMO thoroughly with WD-40.

He was then ready to go out again.

He says in his tours in Vietnam, he never had a stoppage with the Stoner.

[horge]

ttbadboy:

"CLP" is a product-type designation (cleaner-lubricant-protectant) with several brands putting out their version:

BreakFree CLP; MPro7 CLP; FP-10 CLP
and so on...

[Redlg155]

I would think that all ammo that is designed for duty or serious concealed carry applications would have a good sealant to prevent any problems.

If in doubt...buy Ruskie ammo. You know for sure they seal the heck out of their stuff! :D

Good Shooting
Red

[mete]

The problem is the lubes with a penetrant such as WD-40. The penetrant penetrates around the primer and contaminates the primer. This has been a serious problem and years ago thr American Rifleman did a study .They tested many popular lubes and determined which were the dangerous ones .I guess everyone has forgotten this. The problem was most commonly seen with LEOs who would spray lube into their revolvers while the ammo was still in the cylinder. KEEP LUBES OFF PRIMERS

[BluesBear]

Could it be possible that some things have changed since the "years ago" American Rifleman study and the "last fall" American Rifleman article?

I used to pour 3in1 oil into primed cases to deactivate them so I could safely deprime them. On a lark one day I placed one that had been so treated on my anvil and smacked it with a 6lb hand sledge.
Whoo boy, those damn things are LOUD out in the open.
:what:

[ny32182]

horge: Looks like you are right about the "CLP"; I thought it referred to breakfree specifically, but I guess not.

Sometime in a couple weeks, I'm going to soak some caseheads in every cleaner and lube I use and see if they still fire. I will post a report. Thanks.

[dfariswheel]

Possible misunderstanding:

Lubes like WD-40 can TEMPORARILY deactivate primers.
The primer is "dead" UNTIL whatever the contaminant is dries out or evaporates.

This may take weeks or even months, but sooner or later, the primer "comes back to life", according to the NRA.

So, a good test would be to treat several live primers and test one that day, and others in proceeding weeks.

[Zan]

After broken down:

4 Wipes, 4 Q-tips:

Clean with Hoppes solvent. Dry and wipe with a dry pad and Q-tip. Break Free with a pad and Q-tip. Break Free is a good lubricant, but I recommend using a solvent to clean the gun.

[Third_Rail]

Like I said, oils don't affect primers.

I've gotten them to ignite even with a drop of oil in them, WD-40 too.

Quite simply, the pyrotechnic mixture used isn't affected. Hell, if you're using 15 year old ammo, THEN you might have a problem.... but then it's not just the oil, moisture from the air works on the primers more than filling the case with oil would.

[Island Beretta]

..just to be clear!!! when I said CLP I meant Breakfree CLP...

[sm]

What is this "clean and lubricate" :)
Not had a problem with primers going "bang".
Dry toothbrush and pipe cleaners don't seem to affect primers.
I'll have you know I did clean the CCW sitting on my desk fall of '03...just in case folks want to fuss at me. :)

[removing the powdered do-nut residue off the externals don't count - right? ]