New Project ?


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44 Dave
March 2, 2016, 12:51 PM
Need help identifying this old "brasser", it's a Griswold and Gunnison in .44. Think it started as a kit or some parts thrown together, the bolt was not shaped a all, the iron finish shows machining marks, the grips are proud of the frame.
So far I have removed the cylinder impression from the recoil shield, closed the cylinder/barrel gap,fit the bolt, added a bolt block to take up for the oversize window in the water table and pivot slop,and shimmed the for short arbor.
Still have to add a cap guard (there were a couple squashed caps in the works) and fit the hammer/nipples due to the change in the recoil shield.

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Malachi Leviticus Blue
March 2, 2016, 07:28 PM
Are you asking for the manufacturer?
First pic shows old ASM Logo
Armi San Marco

44 Dave
March 2, 2016, 10:24 PM
Thanks an, Armi San Marco, was not sure on the logo.
These markings are not very deep, the date code and proof marks on the other side are mostly gone.
This project answers the question " is the brass revolvers worth having fixed up?". A friend picked it up years ago for $50 at a yard sale. This gun is not getting a full "goonerized" job but enough to bring it back from the dead better than shipped new.

44 Dave
March 4, 2016, 10:15 AM
Should have it ready, and shoot it tomorrow.

44 Dave
March 5, 2016, 08:14 PM
Put 18 rounds through it today. I had made T with 3/4" tape on a large piece of cardboard, thinking it might be way off POA. At 15 yards 4 were in the cross, guess that is good enough.
I do like this old brasser, it was worth the time.
It got barrel/cylinder gap closed. Bolt correctly shaped and bolt block (bolt window in frame and pivot screw were too sloppy) Arbor shimmed and wedge set to lock every thing up at about .002. Cap guard . Action stop and safety pins added to back of cylinder ( some manufactures never put them on $$$), I load 6 and hammer on pin.

45 Dragoon
March 5, 2016, 08:34 PM
Good jod Dave !!!
That'd be "Daverizing"!!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Stormson
March 5, 2016, 09:31 PM
Would love to hear details about how you fixed the recoil shield and then compensated for that. I have an ASM '60 in brass thats going to need the same thing.

Blackpowdershooter44
March 6, 2016, 01:32 PM
Smokin' Joe over on the firing line (not sure if he's over here) made a shim that fit onto the back of the frame so the recoil of the cylinder would hit the steel shim and prevent frame stretching.

44 Dave
March 6, 2016, 03:02 PM
I have seen pictures of the steel insert, but you can still pull the arbor loose.
Brassers are fine when shot with conservative loads!
Here are pictures of the finished project.219253

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expat_alaska
March 6, 2016, 05:56 PM
Need help identifying this old "brasser", it's a Griswold and Gunnison in .44. Think it started as a kit or some parts thrown together, the bolt was not shaped a all, the iron finish shows machining marks, the grips are proud of the frame.
So far I have removed the cylinder impression from the recoil shield, closed the cylinder/barrel gap,fit the bolt, added a bolt block to take up for the oversize window in the water table and pivot slop,and shimmed the for short arbor.
Still have to add a cap guard (there were a couple squashed caps in the works) and fit the hammer/nipples due to the change in the recoil shield.

I can understand how that can happen to a brass frame with heavy/somewhat heavy loads, but I am a bit uneducated as to how you accomplished this. If this is what is referred to as a "stretched frame", I would term it as a recessed recoil shield/cylinder contact (just my vernacular).

Smokin' Joe over on the firing line (not sure if he's over here) made a shim that fit onto the back of the frame so the recoil of the cylinder would hit the steel shim and prevent frame stretching.

I am assuming that the steel shim fits over the diameter of the arbor/cylinder pin and is seated against the base of the recoil shield at the arbor base/attachment area.

If so, at what point in the life of the pistol is this accomplished: when it is new (reducing the barrel/cylinder clearance); when it exhibits signs of "stretching" after firing a number of rounds (when barrel/cylinder clearance exceeds the norm); or when the barrel/cylinder clearances are at a maximum and this is the only remedy?

Since a brass/bronze frame (pick your alloy, and there are many) is softer than a steel frame, I still do not see how the steel shim could be more than a stopgap measure as the same forces are still being exerted upon the frame, be it steel or brass.

I still think much more of it has to do with arbor-to-barrel fit, and wedge fit.

I ain't no expert, but I have learned a bunch from Goon and several others here and on other forums.

Correct me if I am wrong and I will humbly apologize.

BTW, nice resurrection, Dave!

Jim

Blackpowdershooter44
March 6, 2016, 10:04 PM
Wow you did a good job on that smoke wagon Dave! Expat Alaska: You are correct, the shim is connected to the recoil shield.
You can put the shim in when the gun is used or new. When it is stretched, there isn't much you can do.

Smokin'Joe
March 7, 2016, 12:40 PM
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6177346#post6177346

Brad_Bradsher
March 7, 2016, 02:25 PM
Wow, those pix brought back memories!! My first C&B was an ASM Gris and Gunn exactly like that in 1973 or '74. Have pix somewhere of my college roomate at Duke shooting it in '78. Lost it in a burglary a couple of years later. Great gun for a brasser. Mine was one of the "good" ASM's, like the '82 vintage 1860 I shoot now!

expat_alaska
March 7, 2016, 04:45 PM
Well, Smokin' Joe, your link 'splains a lot.

Thanks!

Jim

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