1911 Aluminum Trigger Choices - McCormick or Wilson Combat?


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AirPower
May 24, 2004, 11:26 AM
I'm going to get either the Wilson Combat or the McCormick from Brownell's. Has anyone had one or both, and how well do they compare? The description sounds similar, aluminum trigger shoe mated to steel bow, both adjustable. Please help me decide. So far I'm just basing it on looks, and Wilson's 3 holes make it look better to me.

http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/965001045.jpg

http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/207800160.jpg

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Sean Smith
May 24, 2004, 12:00 PM
Brownells now sells the Videcki-design triggers made on Videcki tooling. I'd buy them before buying copies of the Videcki design.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=20228&title=1911+AUTO+V-SERIES+MATCH+TRIGGER

Either that, or I'd get the BCP #14 trigger. I've had 2 installed on my guns with very good results.

http://www.carryguns.com/showcat.php?cat=Parts

P95Carry
May 24, 2004, 12:23 PM
Picked up a McCormick at a gun show .... because I wanted a change and it was there! (not tried Wilson). Fitting was not too bad ...... just as very small amount of relief on the aluminum either side because of slight binding. Also very slightly smoothed/radiused the edges on the steel. Put this in my Sistema.

After some assistance from 1911 Tuner over the sear-hammer aspect, this gun is now most enjoyable to shoot.


http://www.bedford.net/design/cb_gun2/sistema-t_s.jpg

1911Tuner
May 24, 2004, 02:00 PM
Howdy AirPower,

The McCormick is lighter because of the construction of the trigger bow.
That will make a difference if you plan on having a scary trigger job done
at some point in the future. The lighter the trigger, the less chance of
it nudging the sear and causing the hammer to follow the slide. Other than that, there's little difference between the two. They're both a little
oversized and will need to be fitted to the track in the frame.

Also, since you've posted a duplicate thread over in gunsmithing, I'll
leave the one that's gotten the responses and close/delete the other one.

if you need instruction on fitting the trigger that you get, give a yell and
somebody'll show ya the ropes...Easy project.

Luck!

Tuner

Kruzr
May 24, 2004, 02:50 PM
There is one big difference..........the CMC has the little tabs that allow you to adjust the pretravel. The picture of the Wilson one does not have those.

P95Carry
May 24, 2004, 03:22 PM
Forgot earlier .. I guess Wilson probably has this also but the CMC has an easily adjustable set screw for over travel.

cratz2
May 24, 2004, 03:46 PM
I've never had a McCormick trigger so I can't coment. I've installed three Wilsons, one for myself and two for other folks. Very simple job and I had no complaints. I do like the round holes of the Wilson more than the pie slices of the McCormick.

Personally, I think I'm going to stick with STIs from now on. ;)

srv656s
May 24, 2004, 05:54 PM
OK, so I'm new to messing with 1911 parts. I got the Wilson trigger, and it was just a weeee bit wide. It went into the frame of my gun, but got scratched up a bit on the way in. It's very tight in the gun, and I'm not sure how to adjust it at all.

http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data//500/5270Norinco-left.jpg

Some people mentioned that the triggers are: both a little oversized and will need to be fitted to the track in the frame

Just wondering how to do that...

I'm sad it's scratched, but more interested in it functioning properly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Shawn

P95Carry
May 24, 2004, 08:59 PM
Shawn ..... sounds like you just need to dress the aluminum carefully to slightly reduce it's width (height usually OK) ... use a very fine needle file in ''draw filing'' mode to get main relief ... this will leave very little marking ... and finish off working those surfaces on a fine stone ... and even buff finally to get a polish back. You need to remove enough to prevent bind but no more.

The Wilson appears to have a full height trigger bow ... check this for binding ... you can cover it all with ink from a Sharpie (that helps too with the aluminum) - remove after with alcohol. ... then fit ... withdraw - and see where it's rubbing. Should almost be enough if you chamfer off all edges to a slight radius.

Nothing should bind but .. be patient .. remove a small amount where needed .. try it. Then keep doing same again until right.

1911Tuner
May 25, 2004, 07:14 AM
Shawn....is it oversized in width or height? All the ones that I've messed with are fine in the width (except for one that went into a Safari Arms frame) but needed reduction in height to go in.

Standin' by...

Tuner

rbernie
May 25, 2004, 07:40 AM
As another data point - a McCormick will drop into my ~10 year old Springfield Champion frame and fit well, but the Wilson is too wide and requires thinning to fit.

1911Tuner
May 25, 2004, 08:08 AM
Bernie said:

As another data point - a McCormick will drop into my ~10 year old Springfield Champion frame and fit well, but the Wilson is too wide and requires thinning to fit.

Interesting...Funny how specs vary from gun to gun, and how tolerances
stack up...either for or against us. Just goes to show that there just ain't any such thing as a "Drop-In part". You can hope that it does, and often will...but it's best not to count on it.

You can remove the scratches on the sides of the trigger by laying a piece of 600-1,000 grit paper on a flat surface and polishing the trigger. A piece
of glass will do nicely.

Luck!

Tuner

srv656s
May 25, 2004, 11:03 AM
The trigger's too wide for the frame. Just barely, but it rubs and makes the trigger feel crappy. I'll work on it this week, and I'll let you guys know...

Sadly I don't really have any good tools for the job... I'm a computer programmer, not a gunsmith... I think i've got some sandpaper around the apartment somewhere though.

Shawn

Dave Sample
May 25, 2004, 11:15 AM
We use the CMC triggers in the Online Class because we can teach people to fit them without being there. They adjust for "prep" or "take up" and also for over travel. We advise them to use red loc tite on the overtravel screw after they adjust it or simply throw it away as it can cause problems if it screws itself in or out. I am not familair with the Wilson trigger so I can't help you with it. CMC has been supplying us with his trigger group for many years and it is the best drop in trigger group that I know of if you have a quality lower and the holes for the sear, hammer, slide stop, and thumb safetyare done right. After market products seldom "Drop In" and Tuner has shown you the way to fit it. Good Luck with it.

rbernie
May 25, 2004, 11:44 AM
Maybe this is a stupid question, but how do you adjust the take-up on a CMC trigger?

1911Tuner
May 25, 2004, 12:15 PM
Bernie asked:

Maybe this is a stupid question,

No sucha thing!

but how do you adjust the take-up on a CMC trigger?

By bending the tabs forward until the slack is taken out to where you want it. General consensus is that the minimum is .040 inch...but I like a little
more. It's a moot point for me, since I'm happy with whatever take-up
the gun has...and there's an overtravel stop built in to the grip safety.
Look at the shelf on the underside of the lug that blocks the trigger.
That's an overtravel stop. I remove the overtravel screws and file'em
away in the junk parts box.

Why? I'm one of those guys who believes that the more gadgets it's got,
the more "Murphy" it gets...and that John Moses designed those take-up and overtravel specs for a reason. So many people have been tryin' to outsmart the old boy for so many years, that they really believe they have.

Just my 2% of a buck, understand. Your mileage may vary.

Luck!

Tuner

rbernie
May 25, 2004, 12:35 PM
By bending the tabs forward until the slack is taken out to where you want it. AH - I see what you mean now. I just had to stare at the picture of the CMC trigger for a moment to visualize what y'all were talking about (not having my CMC trigger here at the office). Excellent - thanks.
:)

Dave Sample
May 26, 2004, 05:37 PM
Tuner nailed it! I do the over travel as I indicated. I like the way it stops the trigger after the hammer drops and I always use the Red-Loctite and let it set up for a day. We use the same take up as Tuner , also. It can vary with the shooter's ability and skill. I put hammer stops in six guns for the same reason. It means less wear and tear in a six gun and helps make them take the abuse of Cowboy Action Shooting. I use Purple 222 on those screws so they can be adjusted up as they wear. It acts like a lock washer.

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