[Jim March]

Yup...for the moment, Mr. Sifu #1 is in retirement.

Two reasons:

1) The state capitol will only check in folders up to 4", due to an obscure "government building" rule. I'm in and out of there all the time and need to be able to check goodies at the metal detector.

2) Mr. Sifu has shed some screws :(. I'm working on replacements now but it's a bit of a search.

So what to do instead?

I wanted a matched pair of 4" class fighting folders, for dual-side carry. At least until I finally score CCW :rolleyes:.

Shopped around at a gun show...and was sadly on a bit of a budget.

I would have gotten CS Scimitars if anybody had had some...but they were nowhere to be found. That and the 6" class CS folders are apparantly in short supply right now. I considered various Spydercos, including the possibility of using a 4" Endura for strong-side, 4" harpy-type blade for off-hand, but the ergos just didn't really thrill me.

I was however intrigued by a new CS line with the same "improved linerlock" as the Scimitar:

http://www.1sks.com/images/coldsteel/cs-57l.jpg

http://www.1sks.com/store/cold-steel-pro-lite.html

Ergos are quite good. Blade shape is OK, esp. the lower variant pictured.

I paid $90 for a pair, identical to 1sks's price above.

The locks are solid, and unlike most linerlocks are difficult to accidentally unlock even with a white-knuckle grip. Once the pocket clips were ditched, ergonomics are VERY good, and they're fully ambidextrous (important in this instance). The "football shaped" Spyderhole works very well, and snapopens to a forward or reverse grip are very positive.

Grip shape is proper for forward stabs, resisting "slip up" accidents well. Not quite at the AFCK's level but close. I would still raise the tip slightly on a stab as it's still a linerlock (a good one, but still a liner) and I'd want to take a bit of stress off the lock if the tip hits anything hard.

Both feel "solid" in all respects. The AUS-6 (similar to 440A) steel is a downside, similar to what CRKT has been doing...but the grindlines are good and some testing of the edge against some known-good steel (Khukuri Charda sharpening steel from an HI) show they've got a very decent heat-treat, probably on par with Myerchin or SOG.

I have a dual shoulder holster rig prototyped that allows double sub-second draw from concealment (double reverse grip). I'm working on IWB dual belt rigs now...this is complicated by the short overall size but I think I've got it...pics coming.

Oh, one odd thing: both are serrated, which is my preference by a small margin in a fighting folder. But while I checked everything else on both pieces, I missed the fact that one or the other was a..."mistake". See, one has the standard Cold Steel "micro-serration" pattern, the other has serrations exactly like a Spyderco! Really weird. But that's OK, I can tell 'em apart :D. One is just a hair stiffer than the other, so the one that snaps open a hair easier is the off-hand piece.

At around $120ish, a Benchmade AFCK/Axis is a better knife than one of these...but not better than two :evil:.

[fjolnirsson]

I've had my Pro Lite (tanto blade) for a while now. It's holding up really well. I'd be very interested in seeing that double shoulder holster.
I know a lot of people dislike CS products, but I've had nothing but great experiences with them.

[EricO]

Jim, you've probably already covered the folder I'm going to mention, and if you have I'm interested in what reasons you would have to reject it. Have you considered the CRKT Crawford/Kaspar folder? Avail. in several styles as well as sizes. I'm a big fan of Kaspar's designs, from a concealment fighter aspect, and own both a small serrated and large PE model, blk handles. They lockup solid, and have many features that make them suitable for your required task. Sure, the steel used isn't topnotch, but they serve me as a EDC that I won't cry about if it's damaged or lost. I have/had/and will own in the future more expensive knives that may replace it, but it is a solid choice. I find the only thing missing from the blk handled models is that they could stand to be grippier. Perhaps some home remedy by someone handy with a Dremel? Perhaps some sort of scalloping or golfball type modifications ala Simonich might be needed.
I would love to have a Polkowski (Kaspar designed) Pug!

Well, what do you think? I value your input and I'm curious about what you have to say regarding the CRKT copy of the KFF. Also, if you ever find a way for us Bay Area, Californians to receive CCW's, pls let me know. If I can get one, I'll mow your lawn for a year! Including edging!;)

EricO

[Jim March]

I live in a decent but still "studio" apartment. No lawn :).

Right, the issue with most of the CRKTs with the "LAWKS" secondary safety latch, is that until that latch is engaged the linerlock just isn't that good. It can be accidentally unlatched with a strong grip and a bit of twist, and it's a bit on the thin side.

Cold Steel's linerlock variant that first appeared on the Scimitar is a good step up. It's thicker, has more travel and the way they've "folded it over" basically eliminates the "accidental unlock on a hard squeeze" problem.

Therefore, in my opinion, BEFORE the LAWKS is engaged the Cold Steels I bought are better knives, at right around the same price. Once the CRKT's LAWKS is turned on, lock strength turns into a wash or the advantage goes very slightly to the CRKT (debatable though, CS's linerlock is VERY good). Blade shape and materials is a wash, grip ergonomics are very good each way, possible slight advantage to the CRKT.

But the deal-breaker, for me, is that I don't trust the CRKT linerlock until the LAWKS is engaged. And in a defensive knife that needs "rapid draw and deployment" use, that's not good.

The CRKT "Ryan 7" is in my opinion a better fighter than the KFF! You wouldn't think so, but the difference is that Steve Ryan's customs are all linerlocks too, he's a real master at them, and one of his consistent design features is a grip shape that keeps your forefinger ("trigger finger") away from the linerlock release bar on a hard-target stab. Some Bokers pull this off too. The point is, the one time where a linerlock failure would do you the most harm (hard-target stab) the lock release isn't under your finger.

One trick with a Ryan 7: unscrew that hideous monster of a thumbstud and you'll find a Spyderhole! Not a very big one, but still very usable. This is the ONLY knife I know of that I'd recommend ditching the thumbstud on, as you'll still be compliant with California law specifying that a "thumbstud/hole/disk attached to the blade helps UNdefine it as a gravity knife".

[DigMe]

Jim,

Cool!

EricO,

I love my CRKT KCFF too. The linerlock thing that Jim mentions isn't as big of a deal to me here in Texas because I carry it primarily to do knife things (opening boxes and whatnot) rather than as my primary defensive tool. That job goes to my XD-9 sub or FOX OC spray.

What makes my KCFF even sweeter though is that I got it brand new on Ebay for 16 bucks! It's the all-black "tactical" model and for some reason those aren't commanding as much on Ebay as the non-black blades even though they have a higher MSRP. That equals a helluva deal for me!

brad cook

[EricO]

Thanks for the info Jim. Interesting tips. You do your homework, I'll say. That's why I was looking forward to your input.

Good deal Brad! You scored a nice deal on Ebay with that price. Nothing like that to make you feel good.

EricO

[Jim March]

Heh. Sorry if I seem anal about this stuff :).

Maybe I can put it another way:

1) Grip the knife normally, then SQUEEZE...then take the blade in the other hand (from the spine, not edge!) and give the blade a bit of twist in either direction. What you're checking for is your own finger on the hand on the grip "tripping" the linerlock.

2) Now do the same thing, except this time using the hand on the blade to "push" the grip deeper into the hand holding the grip. Plus give the blade some twist each way. Check two things: where is the linerlock release NOW, and is the hand on the grip threatening to "slip up" the grip and down onto the blade?

If this doesn't seem safe, hold the blade in a bench vice (with wood padding of course!!!) and do all of this.

The Cold Steel Pro-Lights pass both tests. There is enough of a "bulge" at the end of the grip nearest the pivot to prevent a slip-up, and the gripping forefinger is putting ZERO "release torque" on the liner release, mainly because it's slippery and "folded over".

The "grip bulge preventing a slip-up accident" isn't as prominent as the Benchmade AFCK, and is possibly a bit smaller than the CRKT KFF. But it IS there and in my opinion it's big enough. The Spyderco Endura/Delica series have a very small amount of this bulge, *barely* big enough (maybe not, for some hands).

I cannot stress enough that you can't rely on grip texture to control the knife. Grip SHAPE will be with you even when it's all covered in water, grease or (ewww) blood.

A proper grip shape can be done in the slickest polycarbonate or whatever and still work OK, although not optimal. The AFCK is among the very best in folder grip shapes.

[scbair]

I agree with Jim March; grip shape is more vital than grip texture. That said, the Kasper folder has excellent grip shape. If it's the plastic/nylon/whatever "polymer" grip material, you might try "stippling" it with the fine tip of a soldering iron. I installed a set of Barami Hip Grips on a snubbie once; liked the convenience and concealability, but couldn't stand the slick (and I mean polished-slick) surface. Lightly touched the tip of the soldering iron repeatedly over the entire surface, and it is now perfectly suited (to my taste).

You may even find the resulting texture TOO rough; if it seems to have sharp points on the surface, after "stippling," try LIGHTLY buffing with fine sandpaper. That should remove the sharp points that would wear your clothing, while remaining much more secure than the original smooth finish.

Regarding the Cold Steel liner lock, I have a Scimitar and an early Ti-Lite, and (again) agre with Jim; the Cold Steel setup is much more secure than some other "brand name" liner locks I've tried & discarded.

[EricO]

Jim, you aren't being "anal" about stuff, it could (as you know) mean the difference between missing a digit or not, or worse. That's a good test of locks also, I'll try it.

Scbair, interesting tip on the soldering iron. Let me clarify to both Jim and you about what I meant regarding handle texture. I agree about handle shape. I have no trouble controlling the knife after it's in the proper grasp. However, it's while initially gripping/extracting and opening the blade where I feel the handle on the CRKT Kaspar needs some texture to the handle. It's too smooth.

EricO

[Frohickey]

Um... this might sound like its coming from a total newbie... but...

Why not a fixed blade instead?

[JShirley]

1. California law.

2. Most police will look askance on someone who does not do repair work for a living, or who does not operate in a rural setting, who has a fixed blade.

John

[Jim March]

CALIFORNIA LAW.

In my case I'm in and out of gov't buildings with strict security all the time, so I have to go to 4" for the first time in a LONG time. Most Californians can conceal much bigger folders legally.

So I'm going to a dual 4" rig.