Marlin 60 takedown.


June 10, 2004, 03:39 PM
Plinkerton's thread ( asking about taking down his Marlin 60, prompted me to take a few pics as I got mine ready for an overdue clean ... I could not easily give a round count thru it since last strip - many 100's!!

Hopefully it'll help him out but also be a usefull reference for anyone else not quite sure. It is pretty straightforward but marginally fiddly, that's all.

Dang it - forgot about pic limit ... OK - have to split this .......


Part I

Pics are very reduced and compressed, to keep download time short .... .as a result, some ''jagging'' of pixels shows in some - hopefully tho they will serve to illustrate what is needed.

To start (of course - check for clear - which includes removing tube mag rod too)-- just undo two screws ..... the trigger guard rear and the larger one on the forend 2" ahead of trigger guard. Don't bother with trigger guard front screw at all. Remove woodwork from rifle. Make sure action is cocked and hammer back.


First .... having removed woodwork, here is the action .. with slide still locked back halfways. The trigger itself stays in the trigger guard.


Now - same thing but viewed from below. Look carefully and you should see a white arrow top left ... this points to the plastic split pin that retains trigger group. Push this pin out, noting that just as it comes free, the trigger group will drop down a bit. Notice general crud - this one does need cleaned.!


Pin has now been removed and rear of trigger group drops down .. control this to avoid it coming too far too soon.


Once pin is out and rear dropped as in previous pic' .. the front of trigger group can be pulled rearward slightly ... to disengage its location. Note two small arrows ...... the right hand one points to engagement cross pin .. the left points to step at front of trigger group which goes over this pin.


Now for the bolt. Move it slightly downward as shown ..... which gives some free space above the cocking handle. Move the handle up into that space and it should withdraw by pulling towards you.

If you enjoyed reading about "Marlin 60 takedown." here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
June 10, 2004, 03:41 PM
Part II

This shows handle removed .... and you'll notice how it is a sort of ''U'' shape, which fits over the bolt. It is normally retained of course when bolt is fully up in normal operating position.


Just a further view to again show the bolt handle profile side-on.


Now we can remove the bolt complete with recoil spring. In this pic it is almost out but still pressing against end of mag feed block. Try and keep spring and its guide reasonably straight to avoid spring buckling excessively in its middle.


With care, continue to pull bolt free and allow spring to expand under control while keeping straight Then remove the assembly.

From this point you can get down to cleaning. I don't suggest you strip any further. Using carb cleaner etc and compressed air . get all the crud out of the trigger group and the internal surfaces that bear on the bolt. The bolt itself will need some good cleaning also.

Mustn't either - forget breach face ... rake out crud from extractor recess and whole area.

After crud is dealt with, relube sparingly (Militech or similar).... concentrating on slide contact areas. Too much lube is nothing more than a magnet for .22 powder granules!! Reassembly is essentially just a reverse process but again ... try not to buckle the recoil spring as you refit the bolt.

Hope this helps.

June 10, 2004, 04:02 PM
Hope this helps

Sure does help me. Thanks for the post!;)

June 10, 2004, 06:32 PM
I've bought, cleaned and given away dozens of these rifles, but never had the guts to try and strip one completely down. I've got one in the closet now that hasn't found a home, looks like I have a project.

Dave R
June 10, 2004, 08:09 PM
Posts like this are why I love THR.

I can tell my Model 60 is old. My "trigger group pins" are screws!

June 12, 2004, 02:15 AM
P95Carry, I've got a Model 60 that I picked up a while back, and it's real accurate, but I've got a problem with it failing to eject. It will only fire 4 or 5 rounds, and then every round after that FTE. Have you seen this before? Can the bolt be taken down to allow for more thorough cleaning/adjustment of the extractor/ejector?

Just thought I'd ask, as you're the first Model 60 expert I've run across (pretty good photographer of the process, too!). TIA!

June 12, 2004, 07:51 AM
Good post, P95Carry. I'm sure this thread will be linked to many a time from now on.

June 12, 2004, 08:38 AM
Farnham ... ''expert'' .... not really!! But flattery will get you everywhere!!

Let me ask first . how much or little have you cleaned the action yourself? Any idea how much wear shows on the bolt? Is the recess on breach face for extractor claw clear of crud?

The system is more or less foolproof, up to a point but ... without taking mine down again tho I am not sure exactly whjat other options you have. The extractor is pinned and so in theory could be reoved ... maybe it needs ''sharpened a tad'' Not however done this to mine.

Let me know your answers and I'll check it out ... plus, someone else might even have a suggestion here too.

June 12, 2004, 10:58 AM
Read that this works good to keep Model 60's jam free:

Clean and remove ALL traces of oil, lube, Hoppe's 9, etc. Lubricate contact areas with graphite using a wooden pencil. Reassemble and shoot.

This will supposedly help any FTE/ jamming problems.

I have not tried this, but I know these rifles work better clean and dry, so it might be a good thing.

I love .22's, and am looking at an old Glenfield model 60 as a present to myself.


June 12, 2004, 12:08 PM
If only you could post something about swapping the old ejection system for the new lifter spring system, I would be elated.

I took the entire action apart (that's a nasty job, don't do it if you don't have to) to put the new ejector system in, and guess what? It doesn't fit. The lifter spring is hooked at one end, and the hook was about 3mm too short to reach the hole it needed to go in. Naturally I tried to bend it to make it fit and it broke :rolleyes: So now a $5 part is keeping me from enjoying my mod 60.

I didn't really have a point, just wanted to complain.

June 12, 2004, 01:00 PM
LT .. I know squat about this ''lifter spring'' deal ... new to me!

Dogngun .. indeed, graphite is a good dry lubricant .. but not sure quite how long its effect can be reckoned to last. Not tried it in the Marlin.

June 12, 2004, 01:30 PM
P95Carry, I've cleaned it a LOT, trying to remedy this FTE thing, and the bolt is clean. I've got it taken down in front of me right now, and when I move the extractor (left hand side of bolt) it moves smoothly. It shows quite a bit of wear on the tip of the claw, though. Never noticed that before, it helps to know what to look for. Is it possible to replace an extractor? Ever hear of it needing to be done?

Also, I'm a fan of CLP, it keeps my Mini-14 and my 10/22 happy, so I imagine there's too much of it in there, now that Dogngun mentioned how Model 60's work better dry, I'll have to swab all that out and try the graphite thing.

Thanks for your help, guys, it's appreciated!

June 12, 2004, 02:08 PM
Is it possible to replace an extractor? Ever hear of it needing to be done? Farnham .... nope haven't come across one needed done - yet! The pivot point this is about where handle goes over bolt .. so (without removing to eyeball)........ I reckon the pin is there .. look at yours and hopefully you'll see it.

Whether you can dress your extractor carefully to sharpen the claw just a tad .. not sure. OTOH perhaps - just order up a new one .. can't cost too much. The pin will be small .... so you 'll need the exact size punch to drift it out. Worth a try I think.

June 12, 2004, 02:20 PM
Found the pin, and yep, it is SMALL! Definitely need smaller punches than I've got around here. I'm thinking if I try to sharpen the extractor claw, I'll probably just remove enough material to make it completely useless, as there's not much there to begin with.

Guess it's off to Midway, Marlin, and/or Brownells to see what an extractor costs...I've got to quit reading this board, I find something on here everyday that reminds me I need to buy SOMETHING for one or another of my rifles! :rolleyes:

Thanks again!

Edited to add: Found the left and right side extractors, and springs, for $8.16 at Brownells, I can just rebuild the whole bolt!

June 12, 2004, 03:02 PM
Sounds reasonable ... probably way to go .. both sides and be done with it!

Let us know if this provides your needed fix?!

June 28, 2004, 08:23 PM
Hey P95Carry, just wanted to thank you again for posting this. It's been a GREAT help to me, and my never-before-cleaning 60.

I thank you, and my Marlin thanks you! :D

June 28, 2004, 08:28 PM
Plink ..... thx for the feedback .... you are most welcome. It is this that makes our shooting community so vital and fascinating. The exchange of even the simplest info and almost for sure, someone else can benefit.

In the end .... ''what goes around - comes around'' .. we all can be enriched I think. It's what in part makes it all worthwhile.

Good shooting (plinking!! :p )

July 7, 2004, 07:48 PM
Well. I finally got around to tearing down my Marlin 60, and it was SO much easier than I thought. I used Gun Scrubber, and am EXTREMELY impressed with how well it works. It even evaporates quickly so you don't have to clean it out.

Anyways, thanks again. My 60 hasn't been this clean since I bought it. :D

July 7, 2004, 08:27 PM
Good news Plink .... just make sure you do have a minimal amount of lube for slide etc ...... just a smidgeon of graphite or mearest trace of oil - rather than absolutely dry.

Good shooting (plinking!! :D )

July 7, 2004, 08:35 PM
I put a TINY bit of M7Pro (whatever it's called) oil in it. It is MUCH smoother now. Doesn't have that sandy feeling anymore. :D

Oh, one thing I never noticed before, is that this thing appears to have 2 extractors. I didn't know they did that...

April 1, 2005, 07:14 PM

Most excellent post and pictures.

I had heard how hard it was to field strip a Marlin 60 was so I never tore into mine. Well today after finding this post I broke down both my old 60 and a 75 carbine I had picked up a while back. No problems getting them apart and back together.

The 75 is a little different though. The cross pins that hold the front of the trigger group are screws. And the pin in the rear is a bolt. Other then that it came apart and went back together just like the 60.

THANKS for the post and the pictures!!!

April 1, 2005, 08:30 PM
Roy - more than delighted that it has helped!! :)

George Hill
April 1, 2005, 11:06 PM
Whoa, wait a second... someone actually CLEANED a Marlin 60?
What's next? A Nylon 66?

April 1, 2005, 11:16 PM
Bad Chris! You made my nightmares come back from when I tore apart my Camp 45 to take out the mag safety. The two appear rather similar in some aspects.

April 1, 2005, 11:31 PM
Great post and pics! Thanks!

I'm like George Hill though...Whoa, wait a second... someone actually CLEANED a Marlin 60? :eek:
What's next? A Nylon 66?

DO NOT take apart a Nylon 66.

M-a-y-b-e shoot some CRC Brakleen in it ...even that is not needed. Lube, "we don't need no stinkin' lube". Pipe clean the breechface, extractor and chamber. Plain , dry Pipe cleaner mind you. Just shoot the durn things is all I do with a Nylon 66.

April 2, 2005, 12:16 AM
Great pics!
I've got the original owner's manual that came with mine when I bought it in '82. It was invaluable back in the days before the internet and you guys!

August 12, 2005, 04:49 PM
Hehe I took the Marlin 60 to pieces and to my horror found some of the pins missing that keep the screws in place. I still need to put it back together but can't bring myself to the horror of actually doing so. The rifle was full of thick mud and when I tried reinserting the mechanism back into the rifle springs just got loose all over the place and that was the end of that. The Marlin 60 is fine unless you have it in parts.

August 12, 2005, 04:54 PM
Limeyfellow - sounds somewhat ''messy''!!! Not sure where to look right now but an exploded diag of the action should help - in fact it may be in back of an owner's manual if you can find one.

Do explain your username - I only ask cos I am an EX Limey! :)


August 12, 2005, 05:32 PM
Chris - thanks for a great post!

If it helps anyone, I found with my ex-jammo-matic Marlin Glenfield 60 (got it circa 1978) I had to put a thin film of grease (Riggs +P Stainless Steel Lube) on the back of the bolt where it engages the cocking lever. Since I figured this tip out, mine runs like a top!

Thanks again.

August 12, 2005, 05:54 PM
Shalako - you are most welcome. The intention was to hopefully make it a tad easier for those less familiar. Thx for adding your bit of extra pic info too.

The thread is well over a year old but has been ''resurrected'' today! :)

August 13, 2005, 12:38 AM
Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

This was the first thread I ever posted to on THR, and I just realized I never posted my results of the bolt rebuild. New extractor/ejector, new springs, cleaned to surgical standards, and tried every lubricant from Tetra Grease to graphite.

Still don't work!

I guess out of the (I'm guessing) millions of Glenfield/Marlin 60's out there, there had to be a couple lemons. Mine has now been relegated to Super Colibri use, where all semi's are bolt actions, anyway.



April 9, 2006, 03:51 AM
I just found this link by doing a Yahoo search. It turns out that several folks in my shooting club have a Marlin 60, but have no idea on how to clean it.

Wow..this is so helpful. Thank you!

Does anyone know if Eezox would work well in this application? It's liquid but turns into a dry lube.

Makes sense, but I wanted to see what y'all thought.

April 9, 2006, 10:39 AM
I have not tried Eezox so cannot comment but would think it's OK if when dry there is no grease-like drag. Sounds fine.

There is a fine line IMO between a ''too wet'' oil in too great a quantity and a persistent but ''draggy'' grease type lube. Really is a case probably of trying stuff out but anyways keeping qty real minimal.

April 9, 2006, 11:07 AM
I forwarded Chris's takedown to some folks out of state back when he posted it, seems some folks went on the 'great alleviate pawn shops of various .22 rifles run". :)

Eezox has been used , biggest complaint was the smell, from not only adults, but the kids using the guns.

Dexcron II or IIE is a great lube and the best kept secret for semi shotguns, still some of the kids "my gun is stinky - phew" <crunched up noses, waving hands>

Castrol Syntec in 0w-30 works great as well...again some kids and folks that are sensitive to smells due to cancer and surgeries are really sensitive to stuff ( even just regular stuff like dish soaps and window cleaner).

Due to concerns with hazardous chemicals, toxic stuff around the house with kids and all , I had forgotten about Ballistol until reminded of it again. It used to be on the shelves around here, the old shops that had it went out [died off or retired].

Since the old tin can of Browning gun oil is not more...
G96 works great on these Marlin 60s and smells nice too...again not easy to find locally...

Ballistol is being accepted more and more and though some fuss about "smelly sock" smell - this smell goes away pretty quick and does not come back in firing the guns.

Also being used for a number of uses - replacing other household uses .

My Marlin 60 with the "Woodtone" finish , just runs. Winchester X22lr, which is avail here, has always run in anything I have used it in. I pipe clean / q-tip clean, and mine is lubed with ATF. If I ever clean it...I will go back to Ballistol.

For hollowpoint I use the Win PowerPoint ammo. Plinking I use the carton of Federal. CCI is not that easy to get , still these offering work great. I hid and hoard Dynapoints from Winchester as well.

PMC makes a great loading, I know someone that hoarded the Zappers from PMC as his Marlin 60 and 39 are "one holers" with this ammo. I forget if this is standard or high vel.

Trick to .22 ammo guns - is finding the ammo that gun likes for feed and reliability - and POA/POI.

AVOID Win Expert like the plague.

.22's are just too useful and fun not to have.

April 9, 2006, 11:27 AM
I clean my marlin 60 reguarly, normally after each trip to the range which equals at least 550 rounds if not more. The basic strip is fine, but I sure don't have the guts to take all the little pins out and try and put it back together agian lol

August 7, 2006, 02:07 AM
Well the first picture demonstration is very helpful but I need something even more in depth I completly took EVERYTHING apart springs and everything and cant seem to figure out how to put it back together it would be very helpful if someone could redirect me to anything going all the way in the dissasembly im kinda anxeious to see how it fires after being cleaned spotless.

August 7, 2006, 03:11 AM
the most improtant things about the mod 60 to clean, are the bolt face/ chamber area, especially where the little grooves are in the chamber face area, where the extractor/ejector kinda fit into when closed. clean and scrub, with dental pics of necc. Light thin lube is the key to the bolt assy., and yes sometimes a new ejector/extractor is just the ticket. Though it is rare, i have had to replace one in one of my 60's once. And one I accidentally screwed up myself another time, and that was it. They are cheap and usually if you order one from marlin, they will give you two.

August 7, 2006, 04:37 PM
What i need is a lot more detail pic or intructions on how to put every single thing back together everything not just what is show at the beggining of the thread.

August 7, 2006, 08:15 PM
you took all the little spring apart? :scrutiny: QHt in the name of the heebeejeebees would make you do that?

All you need to do is spray it down with some cleaner or oil and if you really wanna do it good wash it under hot running water and that will get it perfectly clean.

As to putting it back together I have no idea lol

One tip though is whenever you take something wiht a bunch of small pieces apart when you are unfamiler with it is to take pictures of it or write down and organize step by step as you take it apart and put it back in the reverse order.

August 7, 2006, 08:28 PM
Sorry -no help to offer either. I have purposely resisted the urge to strip down that far!!

It is true - if you do a total strip and are unfamilar then notes taken while so doing help - spring locations - orientations etc. It does facilitate the re-assembly.

Your best might might be to try asking on rimfire central forum.

August 8, 2006, 06:10 PM
lol hey guys I fixed with with some help easily it went back together and thank god for tweesers btw it shoots absolutly amazing everything is spick and span thanks for all your help and the photos rock!

August 8, 2006, 06:26 PM
Well it looks like tonight I'm cleaning both of mine, thanks a bunch, I was about to off-load one on my brother :evil: .

August 8, 2006, 11:42 PM
i'm sorry , what do you mean, clean a mod 60? what is that?!?

August 8, 2006, 11:58 PM
what do you mean, clean a mod 60? what is that?!?I am wondering if you have read the thread!

Cleaning - a Model 60 Marlin .22 rifle! ;)

August 9, 2006, 09:08 AM
The first gun I ever shot and owned a glenfield mod. 60. same as marlin mod 60 except screws for the take down and no last shot bolt stop. I had one of mine fte continually. I found out it was from old or bad ammo. I put new and old ammo in it and you could hear the difference one sounded like a pellet gun the other sounded like a crack.

After a little practice you should be able to field strip and clean in 2-5 minutes.

I love these guns cheap, reliable, easy to maintain, and ammo is cheap and plentifull. Evertone should have atleast two.

August 9, 2006, 09:44 AM
that was a joke, as in try never to clean it, unless accuracy falls off or carbon is actually jumping out of the ejection port, along with the brass!

September 28, 2006, 01:17 AM
Marlin Model 60 action assembly instructions

Let me start by saying that I do not claim to be an expert of any kind. I came to this forum AFTER having disassembled the action on my '94 Mod 60 because I wanted it to be clean enough to eat off of after having owned it for the past 10+ years. Don't ask me why, I just did it. I figured I was smart enough to figure out how to put it back together, but figured wrong.

Luckily, the pictures at the beginning of this thread were clear enough to show me where everything should go, so I set about figuring it out. After fiddling around, I decided to take some photos while putting it together. I apologize for the lighting as I did it at my desk. It all seems to work at home when I was done (feed, ejection, auto hold-open, bolt release, dry fire) although I haven't actually fired it with a live round yet.

WARNING: To test those functions, I played it safe and acted like it is going to fire accidentally as soon as I closed the bolt. Muzzle in a safe direction.

I joined this forum for the sole purpose of posting these in the hopes that they'll prove useful to someone. Remember that these are written by, and for, a person who performed the disassembly. Part names are taken from the Model 60 parts list (yup, I still have the owner's manual). My instructions may be a bit crude but hopefully the pictures will fill in the details (spring orientation, etc).

First, I needed two forks in order to compress and hold the hammer spring. I bent the end of one prong to act as a retaining pin.
It's kind of hard to see, but note the position of the two-stepped side of the hammer strut bridge (the slotted piece, middle picture) as it is critical. It needs to clear the sliding lever that is permanently mounted to the LH sideplate assembly.

September 28, 2006, 01:50 AM
Next, one "leg" of the sear (the part with the hooked finger) needs to go over its pin. The sear spring and the spring for the bolt release lever needs to go over the pin before pushing the sear completely on. (the bolt release lever is connected to its spring but hanging loose in these pics).
Slide the hammer spring assembly over its pin, letting it stick up as seen here, and guide the strut bridge to its hole in the sideplate.

Insert the cartridge lifter into the feed throat as seen here, then slide the ejector lifter spring (the big one) into place so that the long end falls into the slot on the top of the feed throat. At this point, I also slid the sear spring into place between the side plate and the ejector lifter spring.
The hole at the end of the cartridge lifter will then go over the same pin as the hammer. You may have to move the lever that is permanently attached to the LH side plate just a little to set it all flush.

Lay the bolt release lever on the side of the feed throat. This will be the only part you have to move to line up with its hole while putting the RH sideplate on. Don't forget to put on the big plastic buffer at the rear (curved side facing rear) before attaching the RH side plate.

September 28, 2006, 02:23 AM
Attach the four c-clips into place and remove the fork. Then move the small end of the ejector lifter spring into place. It will hold tension against both the cartridge lifter and the bolt release lever.

Here are a few additional pictures for reference. I also suggest going back to pictures 2 & 4 in the original post as those are much clearer than mine, especially with the red background.

You will have to pull the slide back to connect the action and that should be it (after applying lube sparingly, as mentioned earlier).

I hope that helps someone else out. Not bad for one night's work, but next time I'm just using gun scrub on the whole assembly. Much more time left to go plinking.

September 28, 2006, 02:53 AM
farnham, the first thing to do is replace the mag tube pusher assy. if you are firing 5 rounds perfect, then not, it sounds like the pusher has got a problemif it is fail rto eject, then clean the ejector/extractor metal piece that goes around the bolt , real good. also check it for dings, etc. also where the bolt face locks up into the chamber face, on the left and right side of the chamber face, there are little "grooves" the ejector/extractor fits into, get something sharp, and dig the crud out of those channels.
for the best mod 60 info, go over to
and check the marlin thread.

September 28, 2006, 09:40 AM
Great thread, it makes me want to buy a model 60 again.

September 28, 2006, 05:50 PM
HeyJerr - nice addition :)

I expect the whole thread should with luck help most folks out. The relatively minbimal strip and clean should be enough for most times but your pics do give some very handy info if going even further. Thank you.

October 2, 2006, 12:03 AM
Excellent directions and pic's. Invaluable information for the owner of this gun.

October 2, 2006, 03:08 AM
here is a good one , too.

January 5, 2007, 09:12 PM
Folks I had to post something as this is one of the best threads I have ever seen on any forum.

As an M60 owner and lover...THANK YOU all and way to go!

This thread is linked at ICCF by stickfighter (one of our members) and I'm glad he did.

January 5, 2007, 09:22 PM
Good to see the thread is still helping some folks out :)

January 6, 2007, 10:23 AM
Thanks for taking the time to post this.

I have one that probably has 5000 rounds through it...But the accuracy is still FAR to good for a "cheap" .22. I've been afraid to dissasemble it, for fear of messing up the accuracy. But God knows how much crude is in there!

January 12, 2007, 03:17 PM
I had a friend give me a model 60 glenfield sometime in the early 90's as it would not function... main issue was a broken feed throat... replaced it whala Brownells and never could get it to function reliably... keep workin on it a bit at a time and still fight FTE or FTeject issues for various reasons... we'll get her running.. maybe tonight...

guess the mod 60 is a late model as the forward anchor point is a thru bolt vs just a claw under a thru pin...

anywho good thread and i am glad i came across it...

Carl N. Brown
January 12, 2007, 04:40 PM
My first M60 was actually a Glenfield 99G (Glenfield was the
low price brand name for Marlin guns) and it had takedown
screws where the modern versions have the nylon split pin
and the little posts up front.

Comparing the old to the new: the new has a bolt-lock
feature with the bolt handle, the ejector is an extension of
the cartridge lifter spring, the new has a last-shot bolt hold open,
and there is more room in the receiver for gunk to accumulate
before you have to clean. The current firing pin is lighter
than the original.

On the sideplates that contain the action parts: on the new,
the pins are permanently mounted to one of the action plates,
while the other action plate was held on by C clips over the
protuding ends of the pins. On my Glenfield 99G, there were
C clips on both ends of the pins.

On the older models, the ejector was part of the feed throat,
which is a hard chrome plated cast aluminum piece. If the
chrome wears through (after, say, 20,000 rounds) the ejector
soon becomes useless. The new ejector is much more robust.
I have retro fitted an old Marlin with a new style ejector and
the current owner is quite pleased with the result.

Eventually, you can wear out the feed throat itself, allowing
cartridges to ride too high in the feedway. I have replaced
two of feedthroats for this reason and it is not a fun thing:
the action parts between the two sideplates should only be
disassembled for replacement of parts if needed and for
routine cleaning, well, thats what tooth brushes, Q-tips, and
pipe cleaners are for: to clean the firing mechanism of the
Marlin Model 60 without breaking down the parts within the
left and right sideplates.

Eleven million of these babies have been sold!

The Model 99 I believe actually came out in 1959. There was
also a version called the 49 that had a two piece stock.
And the 99M1 with a M1 carbine style stock with handguard
and short tube magazine and the 99M2 with clip feed.
(Yes, Marlin called the magazine a clip: go after Marlin for that.)

Since then the tube magazine versions have usually been called
Model 60 and the detachable box nagazine versions Model 70.
The Model 70 ejector is part of the magazine, or, clip.

The original versions had 22 inch barrels and full length tubes
for 18 round capacity. Then the New Jersey assault weapon ban,
and Marlin shortened the magazine to 14 rounds. Today, they
have shortened the barrel to match the magazine length.
For export Marlin did make a Model 60 with a ten shot tube for
countries with even more drastic magazine limitations.

January 13, 2007, 02:10 PM
I am glad this thread was revived. I posted awhile back, but since then I have had probs with failure to load. I believe it may be the feed throat; however I have had different results depending on the brand and age of the ammo I am using.

February 3, 2007, 11:21 AM
My model 60 is having FTF issues.:banghead: Sometimes i get a light rim dent. the firing pin seems free and working properly. And the bolt seems to work properly. I cleaned every thing very well paying close attention to the front of the bolt and face of the barrel. still have the FTFs. so i checked the hammer to make sure the spring is good and strong and working properly still no luck.:banghead: Any suggestions?

February 3, 2007, 12:04 PM
Sounds like you have done all you can but .......... just in case of any significance, make sure the relief for extractor claw to side of chamber is clrear of crud.

I do think it is possible for that to sufficiently impede a round going fully into battery. If the rim is even a fraction off contact with breech face then pin has nothing to strike against properly, altho sometimes the pin impact will seat round enough to do the trick.

Is chamber also totally cleaned - I expect so but just check there is no ring of hardened crud/lube mix. Does a ''slingshot'' closure of slide give a reliable feed and chambering - and thus reliable firing? I wonder too if a more potent round would help at all.

February 3, 2007, 12:25 PM
I'm using fed. hi vil. rounds. I will double check the chamber and the extractor. thank you for the help.

February 4, 2007, 07:01 AM
Well it is time for me to hop in on this. I took my model 60 apart the other day as I was getting a lot of FTF's. I gave it a good clean and re-oiled it all up. It also had a very stiff bolt. In the end I ended up cleaning every thing and did a bit of sanding on the back of Cartridge Lifter to help the bolt slide back forward.

Now keep in mind a bit of sanding was just basically enough to remove the bluing on the cartridge lifter and it was only on the top where the bolt makes contact.

I checked it out and every thing and it looked like it was working alright. I took it to the range and thats not the case. It fires fine but now its failing to eject. Basically the casing that is supposed to be ejected just stays in and the bolt comes back forward and gets jammed.

I honestly don't think it was any thing I did well cleaning it or doing the very light sanding. After reading threw this thread I think it might be a week spring.

I will try and get it taken apart in the next day or so and post pictures. I can't get a picture of the FTF but basically it ends up getting jammed on the live round, because the spent casing stays where it was. Forcing the live round to the left of it.

February 4, 2007, 10:27 AM
Your sanding sounds like slight smoothing and should help not hinder.

If tho cases are staying in chamber it surely has to be an extraction issue - so make sure both claws have full spring tension and claws are not cracked/part missing etc. Then make double sure the extractor recesses besice chamber are clear of crud.

Other factors coming to mind are insufficient slide travel and so problems picking up and feeding new round, prior to which even if extractors hold empty - it may just go straight back into chamber!

Wish I could handle and check it all - tho that's no guarantee! But anyways, make a close up inspection of all aspects and check all springs.

February 5, 2007, 01:08 AM
Thanks I will try and work both of the hooks and make sure they are working ok. I'm pretty sure that as soon as i figure out the ejection issue that the gun will be 100%.

March 12, 2007, 06:03 PM
Your thread is still helping out more people!
I googled "Marlin 60 takedown" and your thread was one of the top results!
EXCELLENT thread! I had to register on this site just to say that if anything. Unfortunately I have more to say.
I cleaned my (20+ year old) 60 very thoroughly, aside from actually taking the action apart as shown on page 2 of this thread. I don't have any FTE's, etc. what trouble I am having is failure to load. Now, since I cleaned it, I didn't try running plain 'ol remington thunderbolts through it, only some CCI Stingers. And with every other round, the case gets crushed in the breach. Is this because the Stinger case is longer? Should I not be running these hyper-velocity rounds through this old rifle?
(I hope the regular 'ol .22LR fire good through this still - I'll find out for sure this afternoon when I get home from work)

March 12, 2007, 06:32 PM
fiveflat - welcome aboard!

Glad to see the thread still has some benefit - it's been around a while now ;)

I thought actually the regular Stinger was std .22 LR length. Anyways - I would suggest, obviously with gun pointed safe ....... eyeball the feed while operating slide by hand - and watch that for errors. Check each round comes up properly and fully as it should. Make sure slide also can go fully to rear with no obstruction.

Sounds like rounds not flipping up into line enough or fast enough - so check to see too if mag spring and plunger free, so that shoves rounds down tube with enough pressure.

Has to be an answer.

March 12, 2007, 06:38 PM
everytime my wife or i clean her 60, :banghead: , we refer to this thread. it's been most helpful.:cool:

Capt Hook
April 22, 2007, 01:42 PM
Hey Jerr I am new to this fourm and would like to say thank you for your post on the marlin model 60 .with out your help I think I would still have a pile of parts to a Marlin model 60 sitting on my bench .again Thank You Sir........Capt Hook

April 22, 2007, 01:53 PM
Welcome Capt :) - once again I can only feel a sense of pleasure knowing that the thread has helped a good many folks. Of course additions after my starting post also made it even more comprehensive.

I still love my ''60'' - it probably still takes the ''plinking award'' ;) As for my round count ....... that long ago became uncountable!

April 23, 2007, 01:00 AM
Here is alink i had to do this, it is good in its own right as is the OP's of this thread

April 23, 2007, 03:59 AM
farnham. stop what you are doing. if you look in the feed channel , there is a straight steel spring end, that looks like it points directly into the feed channel. it hasa a little grooved place, right next to the frame. on the feed throat assy., that it kinda fits into. take a pair of needlenose, grab the end of that pointy wire, and bend it , slightly upwards, and slightly more into, pointing towards the center of that feed channel. that hard pointy wire is what ejects the shells.

April 23, 2007, 04:03 AM
the new feed throat kit is 15 bucks from e-parts. it is shown in picture 2 and 4 , at the beginning of the thread. it is that chrome silvery square looking thing, that is in the action block, about 1.4 inches long, and .5 inches wide.

April 23, 2007, 04:04 AM
also in pic 4 , you can clearly see the ejector wire, sticking slightly up, above the feed channel, of that feed throat assy.

April 23, 2007, 04:07 AM
hckr2000, make sure the chamber face, where the bolt slams against, is free of crud. both of those claws, have little spaces that they must fit into, on that chamber face, or they will not recess in far enough to grab out the old case.

July 3, 2007, 05:38 AM
does anyone have a complete picture of total tear down of the firing mechinsum of a marlin model 60 , rifle

Carl N. Brown
July 3, 2007, 11:01 AM
As one who has revived three M60s with worn-out feed throats,
let me say you do not want to totally tear down the Marlin M60
fire control/feed group unless absolutely necessary to replace worn or
broken parts. That said, the Marlin manual shows an illustration
with the parts list and Gun Parts Corp. (numrich) catalog illustrates
several variations (as the M60 evolved over the years).

The firing mechanism can be adequately cleaned as a complete
unit when removed from the action with toothbrush and Q-tips.
I am not trying to be unhelpful: I am trying to save from the
ordeals I went through.

July 27, 2007, 09:47 AM
I hope someone can answer a question I have.

First off, I have to join in the praise of this thread. Thanks P95!

My bolt is real "sandy" feeling, rough, you all know what I'm talking about.

I just can't get the little split pin out - the one that "retains the trigger group".

I have soaked it for a while with Powderblast, taken a bit and a rubber mallet to it (somewhat gently, of course), and it doesn't seem to budge! I want to get that bolt smooth. It's driving me nuts! Any advice? (or just a link to a post about this? I skimmed through the prior posts in this thread, but I'm at work so I was in a hurry) I don't know what I would search for in the forum for such a specific problem either.

Even at this stopping point, though, I feel like I'm getting so much crud out of there. But I'd like to get the bolt good and clean.

Thanks again - Josh

July 27, 2007, 12:48 PM
Josh - are you meaning the plastic split pin at the rear, per pic #3? It should remove easily - and a pair of needle nose pliers to close it slightly should result in it being able to move across and out.

As has been said by Carl ..... keep the trigger group itself intact - it is not a fun thing to have to reassemble!

If possible post a wee pic to make it clear you are talking about the pin I think you mean.

As for ''sandy feeling'' - oh yes, that is very much the feel when the infamous .22 crud accumulates ....... a good reason for not over-lubing.

July 27, 2007, 12:58 PM
Yeah, it's the pin that's in picture 3, that has been removed, dropping the trigger group. Needle nose pliers are a good idea.. this doesn't seem to budge, though, but that's another option.

I can get a photo later on tonight when I get home from work if needed. Also, I wasn't planning on taking the trigger group down, haha. That's waaay too intimidating.

It'll be nice to get the bolt smooth again. I've had this for 7 years or so, and it's never been taken down.

August 2, 2007, 10:58 PM
Hey thanks for putting together this great tutorial! It's helped me with disassembly of a M-90.

On the Eezox question...I use it on about everything I own. Don't get it on the bolt buffer but do put it everywhere else. The great thing about dry lubes is they don't attract/hold blow-by, so cleaning is simpler. They also are about as slippery as oil. The smell goes away after a bit. I quit trying lubes after I found Eezox, but I've tried a bunch and they don't stack up, IMHO.

Thanks to you all, who have contributed to this great thread.

August 2, 2007, 11:05 PM
for the split pin, mine was stiff at first, but I squeezed it with pliers and was able to get it out. Now I can pop it out with my hands, and it locks shut when I put it back in. Pliers are the answer.

September 5, 2007, 09:43 PM
Any suggestions on getting the bolt spring back in?

September 6, 2007, 10:10 AM
Any suggestions on getting the bolt spring back in?

Main thing I find is compressing the spring over guide rod far enough that it goes cleanly into recess in bolt - this is down to controlled pressure while trying to keep good alignment. If careless the spring can bend or kink before guide rod providing the necessary rigidity.

Could be, a pair of tweezers can help with alignment as spring being compressed - keeping the area where it wants to kink from being able to do so too much. This is one of those operations where a bit of practice makes it easier.

October 14, 2007, 09:48 AM
Thanks for all of the helpful information on this thread. I do have a question relating to the Marlin 700. As I understand it, this model is basically the 60 but with a clip feed and was made especially for Big 5 sporting goods.

Anyway, my problem is that when I shoot it, it's not a few a rounds later and I can't pull the trigger back. It doesn't engage the rest of the mechanism to fire the round. The rounds load up fine, but I can't get it to fire off. Just wondering if anyone can help. Thanks.

November 20, 2007, 11:34 PM
I just picked up a Glenfield Marlin mod 75, for $65 from my local gunshop. The gunny there just installed a new style feed throat in it and it shoots just fine. I put a BSA 3X32 scope on it and I can get decent enough groupings at 50 yards to kill them peskey tree rats. I have only had 1 feed problem while using federal 22 bullets. The CCI stingers and Winchester bullets work wonderfully in it.

The only problem that I have is that the trigger has so much slop in it. Is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of play in the trigger? And or over travel? Short of buying something new and shiny? Which ain't an option.

Thanks this thread is awesome BTW.

January 7, 2008, 11:24 PM
Well, another new Model 60 owner, another act of thread necromancy!

I took my recently acquired new-looking Model 60 to the range on Sunday, even though I didn't expect to shoot it. Despite having his pick from a couple of different AR's and a couple of different modified SKS's, my shooting companions son kept gravitating back towards the Model 60. In no time he was putting every round in one long hole (looked like a map of Italy, about 2" long) with an unzeroed 4x scope at 50 yards with rapid fire :)

It's now zeroed, so I figured I'd clean it even though it functions fine. I scrubbed off enough carbon and grit to gunk up a lesser rifle and now my bolt release makes the bolt snap forward instead of hitching forward like a sick horse!

Thanks for the guide and all the additional info since posted, you made it a LOT easier!

January 8, 2008, 08:05 AM

Addictive little rifles, aren't they? is a good place for Marlin info and has a Marlin 60 club. ArrowDodger put together a similar powerpoint presentation. It's really handy because it automatically comes up full screen so the parts look 'bout life size. The technique/description is a little different which helps in spots.

Between this thread & RFC it was pretty easy to tear down and refurbish an M60 over the holidays.

July 16, 2008, 04:40 PM
Great thread, thanks!

September 13, 2008, 11:19 PM
Thanks P95carry. My local pawnshop had a Glenfield Model 60 for 57.50 (75 0ut the door). The owner kindly warned me of failure of the plastic buffer. Google led me here. If bought the rifle today, fired off a quick (and flawless) fourteen rounds then took it apart by your instructions and cleaned out lots of junk. It was a breeze thanks to you.

September 13, 2008, 11:21 PM
Delighted to see the info still helps folks now and again :)

Still find I need to keep my trusty Marlin clean enough .. for satisfactory plinking!!

Savage Shooter
September 13, 2008, 11:42 PM
FINALLY someone posts some pic I have never tried to take mine apart due to my friends horror story when he took his apart pieces went every where and it took him days to get it back together again. It really doesn't look that hard I figured it took a room full of rocket scientists to take these @#%^&*! things apart. Not that they would ever NEED to be taken apart and cleaned:D

September 14, 2008, 12:35 AM
Wow, I wish I had the push-pins in my Marlin 60. I have to take out four screws to remove the trigger group as it's 1971 manufactured. :mad::cuss::banghead::(

September 14, 2008, 10:17 AM
Does anyone know if the same instructions apply to a Model 70PSS?

For one thing there are only 2 screws near the trigger guard. Any problems removing them both (no springs become unsprung or other potential disasters)?

After removing screws will action separate and disassemble like the Mdl. 60? No way I'm touching or removing anything unless I know for sure! :uhoh:

September 27, 2008, 12:47 PM
i collect old gun magazines and one i have, popular .22's told me not to take it apart as they had to pay a gunsmith to put it back together. is there any other way to clean it without taking it apart?

September 27, 2008, 01:55 PM
It's not hard to put back together at all as long as you don't take the trigger pack apart.

you don't need to take the trigger pack apart anyway, an old toothbrush can reach into all the crevasses just fine.

October 2, 2008, 08:14 PM
I took the gun down but left the trigger pack together and cleaned it real good.
Everything was goin real ggod until my rag snagged a spring and bong bang boom.
i was so mad at myself. But thanks to these pages I easily put the springs back in and everthing worked out great.

October 3, 2008, 08:41 PM
When my Marlin 60 started to jam up after shooting about a zillion rounds thru it during the 20 or 25 years that i've owned it , I used this to help with the take down. There was a huge hunk of lead on the top side of the feed ramp that had built up after of those years of use with just normal cleaning. Runs good now!

October 13, 2008, 12:46 AM
True. I can't believe I was avoiding it for so long. Good thing this thread was here to demystify "taking apart a Marlin 60." Anyone could do it.

October 18, 2008, 11:08 PM
Chris - thanks very much for this. When I was 16, I could just about do this blindfolded since I stripped and cleaned my 60 almost every time I shot it (first gun + OCD??). After 20 years in my brother's closet / safe, I'm going to be getting my old 60 back this Christmas, and I'm looking forward to bringing it back to it fine working order with what I'm (re-)learning here. Gracias!


October 24, 2008, 12:10 AM
After some prompting -- I decided to put this up on YouTube altho the pics are the same - just spread them out with some sound track.

As ever, just hope this in part at least helps simplify the process for those new to the deal.

October 24, 2008, 12:01 PM
I love my little marlin 60. It took me a few tries before I realized I needed to close the action to take it apart, but other than that it's dirt simple. It was just 60 bucks at the pawn shop around the corner, where some dummy tried to load a .22 mag in there and jammed it up so they got rid of it- their loss my gain!

November 27, 2008, 05:55 PM
My late dad has a Marlin Glenfield Mod 60 sold to him by a late uncle. Upon seeing this thread I thought about disassembling his rifle for a general cleaning and I notice a couple of difference on the internals of my dads marlin.

First thing I notice, On the first step to take out the trigger group, it says the plastic split pin that retains the trigger group. My dad's is not made of plastic, its a hollow metal that has a screw at the other end.

The second thig I notice, the front of the trigger group where the instruction says
" to disengage its location. Note two small arrows ...... the right hand one points to engagement cross pin .. the left points to step at front of trigger group which goes over this pin"

Again on my dads trigger group, theres no cross pins but two screws on each side.

And last but not least, the trigger group shown on the pics 1/3/4 has this J like metal sticking out in the middle of the trigger group. My dads don't have it.

Am I looking at a different marlin mod 60 or is my dads rifle modified?

I also notice hammer (I think its the hammer) has a broken ear (the top part is U shape and the other side is broken. Although it does not look like it will interfere on the rifles mechanism, is it safe to fire this rifle once I'm done cleaning it? This rifle has never been fired since '95

Thanks for your inputs.

December 1, 2008, 12:22 AM

December 1, 2008, 03:25 AM
There is an early version which is slightly different, than the later version. Some of the pins are different and the later version has a bolt lock (the projecting j-hook). The pictorial is of the later version. Yours is probably the earlier version if it doesn't have the bolt release and uses the screw pins.

I doubt that broken hammer part will affect the way it shoots. You might want a gunsmith to check it out before you shoot it.

Enjoy your Model 60, it's a great little semi-auto.

Carl N. Brown
December 1, 2008, 09:17 AM
My first Marlin .22 was the direct ancestor of the M60, a Model 99G. As gemini1 pointed out, instead of attaching the action plates to the receiver with the nylon post and two hooks over pins in the receiver, there was a hollow post with a screw and two screws at the front.

The "ears" on the hammer are what the bolt pushes down to cock the hammer. One might be sufficient for the meantime, but I would look to replacing it.

Disassembly of the new Marlin M60 is easier than the early models. M60 has been gradually improved over the years, and Numrich Arms (Gun Parts Corp) offers parts for various versions, and even a retro-fit kit to update old versions.

December 5, 2008, 05:23 PM
Thank you for the inputs. The rifle has been totally cleaned and lubed. Anyone got any idea if theres a gun store in Northern California that has Marlin parts readily available?

Thanks again.

January 14, 2009, 10:26 PM
Greetings, great site.
I recently took my old Mod 60 out of mothballs (figuratively speaking) as a need for some small varmit control has become necessary.
Since it doesn't have a scope I set up a target about 25 yrds out to site it in somewhat and after the 1st successful shot, it proceeded to misfire in the next 3 so I decided to take it down for inspection, cleaning and repair. Mine must be an early model as it has a screw and screw sleeve in the actions rear and two screws in the front. This was the 1st time I've ever took it down this far and it was very dirty. I cleaned it up real good and decided not to put any lube in it at that point as thats what seemed to collect the debris. I may go back with a dab or two of whats been recommended here later.
With it torn down everything seemed OK so I put it back together and tried a couple rounds. She fired and ejected fine!
I decided to do a web search on Marlin Mod 60 and found this site and great instructions. Seems I followed the instructions listed in this thread without knowing it :D
I gotta say that putting the long spring and bolt back into the housing was a bit of a chore tho :D
Looks like a simple teardown and cleaning fixed me up.
Theres great info here so I thought I'd add my humble expericence.
PS, what would be a good and "cheap" scope kit to add to a Mod 60?

February 26, 2009, 10:22 PM
I have a Marlin 60 that I haven't touched in probably 20 years. Tonight I decided to break it down and do a good cleaning on it and it was pretty cruddy. I have shot an untold number of rounds through it and it has always worked. Well to my surprise I was able to tear it down, clean it and put it all back together from memory. Then I found this thread. Good job :)

February 26, 2009, 10:29 PM
This thread is what THR is all about- no politics- just guns!

April 6, 2009, 02:40 AM
I'll be giving mine a good cleaning. I have not given it a detail strip in so long I'd forgotten how.

September 25, 2009, 08:35 PM
Will a ruger 10/22 barrel fit on a marlin 60.Can you get any bull barrels for it.I heard you cant but a bull barrel on it but there is a lot of room between the barrel and the tube.

September 25, 2009, 08:50 PM
I never considered that as an option but best I can tell there is no other barrel which would suit. Of course with suitable machining facilities etc and a good barrel blank - pretty much anything ''could'' be done!!

I think it does pretty OK as it is - just a very inexpensive semi .22.

October 18, 2009, 03:21 PM
I was just given a marlin 60 and its not ejecting the 2 ejecters are grabing the spent round and removing it from the chamber fine ,,,, It looks to me the feed throat is also the ejecter is the right ? mine looks worn so will the new style feed throat work on a old style gun
thanks for the help

October 18, 2009, 03:27 PM
Really not sure on this - I am not sure of compatibility between newer and much older models, tho I suspect little will have changed.

I think best option might be to try and contact Marlin to get some good tech advice.

Carl N. Brown
October 19, 2009, 11:17 PM
On the older version, the ejector is a protrusion on the feed throat and it does wear down eventually. On the newer models, the ejector is an extension of the carrier lifter spring, thick tempered spring steel that lasts. There is a retro-fit kit to replace the feed throat and lifter spring available through Gun Parts Corp (Numrich Arms) and probably Marlin's Parts department. It takes a lot of patience to replace a Marlin 60 feed throat.

October 26, 2009, 05:55 PM
I picked up a older style feed thoat I tried removing the old one by just spreading the one end well that didnt work the whole assembly fell apart WAAAAA :banghead::banghead:

I got it back together but with out the post it never would have happend thanks you made a 9 year old girl happy :D:D

March 15, 2010, 09:27 PM
You just saved my butt with those pics. Thanks!!

March 15, 2010, 10:01 PM
You just saved my butt with those pics. Thanks!!

Always glad to know I might have saved another butt LOL!


Mike J
March 16, 2010, 09:35 AM
Good Thread P95 It would have been nice if I had stumbled across it a while back. I had an old Glenfield version that was jamming. I wound up having to replace the little plastic buffer in the trigger group. I don't think I would have got it back together properly if I hadn't had another model 60 to look at & see how it went.

March 16, 2010, 01:13 PM
Will a ruger 10/22 barrel fit on a marlin 60.Can you get any bull barrels for it.I heard you cant but a bull barrel on it but there is a lot of room between the barrel and the tube. marlin60

The Marlin barrel with the microgroove riffling is very accurate out of the box. More so than the 1022 on average. I think the reason there aren't many after market parts for the Model 60 is because they got it right from the start, especially at the price point it sells for.

March 20, 2010, 10:35 PM
I'm glad to see this thread is still around and helping people.

Vote For David
March 24, 2010, 12:09 AM
Everyone, the Marlin action is pretty simple if you understand all the fiddly bits inside. It's also very easy to service and detail strip. If you can remove and replace the magazine release on a 1911, you can break your 60/795 etc. all the way down to pins and springs and put it back again.

I took lots of photos and went into a bunch of detail about reworking the trigger, here:

Marlin 60/795 etc. Trigger Job Page (

Col. Plink
March 24, 2010, 10:24 PM
i'd like to hear more from hcker and others on what can be done about FTF's.

Where and what to 'sand'? Super-fine grit or even finer? What #?

I will also clean around the bore rim. Did a full action, bolt, & receiver clean the other day and likely did not get around the rim like I should; it does that 'light hammer strike' thing and sometimes will not manually eject an unfired round either (a very frustrating combo). Any other ideas for this problem, or am I on the right track? Thanks!

June 19, 2010, 10:08 PM
after reading all this im going to clean my marlin tomorrow. its starting to jam when first trying to load the first round. if no jam it will fire all the rds in the tube. i say its because of mass produced ammo, poorly made

July 14, 2010, 10:41 AM
What a sweet little rifle, and darned accurate! I took my grandkids (4 boys, 5-14yrs) to the range...I had bought each one (yes, even the 5 yr old) a single-shot .22. Plus, we took my Model 60 and the wife's 10/22. And a pistol.

We burnt up most of a brick of Winchester failures...and everybody got sunburnt. Boys shot objects...not paper...from 15 to 25 yds and had a blast. Saved the Ruger and Marlin 60 for last. The little boys liked the Ruger because it was so handy, the 12 and 14 yr olds liked the Marlin...for Minute of Squirrel, it is a toss-up...glad I have both.

But, if I were advising someone which to buy as a starter rifle...60's are everywhere for $60 to $100, gunshops think Rugers are made out of gold...cheapest I have seen lately is $150. $50 buys a lot of ammo.

I keep my action hosed out with gun scrubber and lube with spray oil, the 60 just keeps on eating up ammo and spitting out the empties.

Love the thread, though...made several bookmarks. Thanks!

September 3, 2010, 11:33 AM
I've cleaned mine many of times. The only thing I've had to replace on mine is the pin that holds in the trigger assembly. Instead of using a plastic replacement I made one from brass. Simple project. Also I understand that the gun is relatively cheap. I think it cost about 100 dollars brand new. My dad used to own it. He didn't bother cleaning it other then the barrel, but I noticed it always jammed up. I had bought a spray can full of break free broke it down and cleaned all the breech assembly. Hasn't had a jam up since then. I also mounted a Bushnell sportsman 4x12x40 scope, not their top scope but figured it wasn't gonna reach out to far anyways. The scope does come in handy for squirrel hunting and rabbits in the garden. Can keep my distance without chasing them off.

December 13, 2010, 01:15 PM
Hey Ladies and Gentlemen, first time poster here.
I have a 1977 Marlin Glenfield 60. It has maybe 100 rounds threw it. My Dad bought this for me and we plinked some cans one day...and then it was hung up in the cellar for 33 years untill this past month. With the help of this thread i was able to follow step by step to clean (not much to clean) make sure all the parts were in order, springs good, etc...
I loaded the tube believe its 17 or 18 rounds, pulled back the "lever"? to load first round. it comes up and as the lever is about half way to push round into chamber , it pushes the round up and too high and it becomes wedged in.

I took apart the "cylinder'? that has the 2 claws, 1 on each side. they are both different. The inside one has a "grabber" the outer one closest to the lever does not have a grabber on it and seems about a 1/16" shorter than the other. I assume that the round is pulled back and discharged to the rightside, thats why there is no "grabber" on this one. Is this true? I try to watch as the round is being pushed forward, but cannot see why it wont stay straight to the chamber. I would assume if there were 'grabbers" on both of these it may guide the round straight in.

Make sense? Whats your thoughts and Thank You in advance.

December 13, 2010, 02:18 PM

I am not familiar with a version as old as yours and can only judge by mine which is approx 10 years old but would expect things to not have changed much over the years. The tube mag is normally a 15 round max capacity. Your ''grabbers'' are the extractors and from my observations both should be same length and both have hook claws. Could be your outer one has lost it's hook due to a fracture.

Normally as a shot is fired, the blow back sends the bolt back with the extractor claws holding the empty case, until it reaches close to rear position when at lower left (far side) the ejector projection hits the case to flip it out to the right. The extractors are spring loaded and so as the case hits ejector projection the left extractor should move enough to release the grip on the case.

I think you may best get a dealer or someone you know who is familiar with the gun model to take a look - or you could perhaps take yours down (field strip) and take pics of the bolt etc.

December 13, 2010, 03:32 PM
Thanks Chris,

I will take pictures of it taken down. Its easy enough. I'll show each extractor "claw". I do recall as a kid..(yup..I do..) that may be why we hung the gun up in the cellar. It may have been jamming on us and my Dad really wasn't a gun guy so instead of fiddlin with went to sleep for 30+ years!!

My crossman 760 from the same year took its place..and still works wonderfully.

December 13, 2010, 08:30 PM
pardin me if i should rude.....are you using 22 lr and not the 22 magnums? magnums are longer and bigger diameter. not much but enough to miss you up. also stinger ammo wont work either. they have longer casing even though its 22lr ammo.

December 13, 2010, 10:37 PM
I've owned a model 60 for 16 years and never broken it down like this to clean it. Here's hoping on my next range trip it cycles properly

December 14, 2010, 12:56 PM
Hhere are a few photos. The extractors are steel not plastic so doubt if one sheared off? Ammo..look at the price .99 for a box..thats also 33 y.o. was stored in an army ammo case.

Several rounds did fire off when i manually placed into gun.

December 16, 2010, 10:43 AM
any comments on the extractors?

December 16, 2010, 10:55 AM
Are you slowly releasing the bolt or pulling back and releasing? Does it fail to chamber only on the first round? Have you tried shooting it with 2 rounds? Manually insert one round into the chamber and put 1 in the tube. Does the rifle eject and chamber the 2nd round correctly?

December 16, 2010, 11:04 AM
I will try manually loading one and with 1 in the tube. I am pulling bolt back slowly and easing it forward...the round jumps upwrad as it moves towards the chamber.
Do my extractors look ok? there is only 1 the left side that has a claw on it

December 16, 2010, 11:35 AM
I will try manually loading one and with 1 in the tube. I am pulling bolt back slowly and easing it forward...the round jumps upwrad as it moves towards the chamber.
Do my extractors look ok? there is only 1 the left side that has a claw on it

That kinda nullifies your experiment. You can't do that to an auto receiver, because that's not how it operates. If you pull back on the lever and release it or better yet, use the bolt release, does it still fail to chamber? On the Marlin 60, there's a small window where the round is unsecured, so if you're moving it slowly, any tilt on the rifle will cause it to misalign with the throat.

December 16, 2010, 07:39 PM
Snapped blot to feed went in..fired one jammed..i am going to buy some new ammo tomorrow. let me ask a stupid question. Should the lead be loose from the brass casing? I can wiggle the lead head. ammo is 30 y.o.

Mike J
December 16, 2010, 08:06 PM
Fresh ammo might help. My model 60 doesn't like the Remington bulk pack stuff. It does fine with the Federal bulk pack or Winchester 333 stuff though.

If it is any help there is a parts schematic on Marlins website in the owners manual here

December 17, 2010, 11:43 AM
Snapped blot to feed went in..fired one jammed..i am going to buy some new ammo tomorrow. let me ask a stupid question. Should the lead be loose from the brass casing? I can wiggle the lead head. ammo is 30 y.o.

Could be an ammo problem or a cleaning problem. I would suspect the ammo first. Note there's a lot of variety in .22lr ammo now a days. Different weights and velocities. Try a bunch of different types. It could also be dirt. Break down the receiver and re-lube. Bullets that aren't seated properly is just indicative of poor quality. Very common for cheap .22lr ammo.

December 29, 2010, 11:22 PM
Not sure if anyone can help, but I have what I am guessing is a 99, the only markings on the rifle is on the barrell left side says:
The Marlin Firearms Co.
New Haven, Conn. USA
.22 Long Rifle only - smokeless greased

This is it, the back of the barrel is square and has what looks like a flat head plug on it. Has a window for the chamber and another window that shows the slide only. I can take pics, of course.

There doesnt seem to be much online for the marlin 99 or whatever I have. I have 2 boxed shaped mags that hold 5 or 7 rounds, what I think is a scope mount is on the left side and has a thumb screw with a block that an older scope would attach.
This was my grandfathers rifle he passed at 91 in Jan 2009, so I cant ask him.


It obviously looks like this magazine but the models shown do not match the model i have of the rifle.

September 18, 2012, 10:44 PM
Revival Time, hallelujah. last post 21 months ago, lol.

I own a newer model 60SS and after a ton of rounds fired the action was getting stiff so i decided to break it down and clean it, let me say that my problem that occurred after i cleaned it was self induced and thanks to this forum i was able to realize my mistake and correct the problem.

Here's how it went, when i took it apart i noticed the extractor spring kept falling out of the groove so i decided to tweak it and when doing so i made it flat down tight to the receiver block, I done this not knowing that it was suppose to be bent up and that is what extracted the empty cases, so after i got it all cleaned up i put it away, then one day when i took it out to shoot it i was getting an FTE, the empty case was staying on the bolt face and not extracting, i couldn't figure out what was going on till i found this thread and seen the posts and pictures talking about and showing how that spring is suppose to be bent up, soon as i read it i remembered what i had done, long story short i bent the extractor spring back up and fixed my problem.

Thanks for this thread.

September 18, 2012, 10:54 PM
Hey - welcome to THR!

Since my initial work with pics to help the process, I added a more detailed video on YouTube with commentary - could be that will be of use to you and others. I think I forgot to add the link to it.

Check it out here -

Glad it seems you got your problem fixed.

Oh BTW - tho I use Fed bulk box ammo a lot - best reliability was with Federal Champion, same in my MkII pistol. Only problem is it is round nose so not much good for hunting.

September 18, 2012, 11:10 PM
I use the Federal bulk for plinking and CCI Stingers for hunting. Thanks again.

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