Second G.I. Springfield range report


June 18, 2004, 03:14 PM
Let me first state to 1911Tuner that his magic slurry treatment works exactly as described by him and others that have tried it. Last Sunday I whipped up a batch and was drizzling it all over my .45 8 hours later. I applied it, cycled the slide 130 times with the spring and bushing installed, applied more for another 120 cycles and then cleaned everything up with a rag followed by a complete hosing off with the Gummout Carb cleaner. Then I scrubbed everything down with Hoppes no.9 Auto solvent and then regular Hoppes, wiped everything off and oiled the slide rails with Rem Oil and oiled the rest of the gun as usual. Next day I jacked the slide a few times and *butter on glass* is a very good description of what I felt in my hands now. All grit and roughness GONE!

Anyhow, today I went to a poorly lighted indoor range with 100rds Winchester 230gr ball target ammo, 50 rds UMC 230gr ball and 50rds Blazer Brass 230gr ball ammo. 200rds total. Failures of any kind: 0. All rounds fired loaded through the single Springfield magazine. On all but 2 clips I chambered the first round by depressing the slide stop from a locked back slide, and the slide on the last clip closed just as slick and smooth as it did on the first clip. The other 2 clips I loaded into a closed action with the hammer down and sling shotted the slide. Everything worked perfectly although I did get beaned in the forehead with a few of the ejected brass cases, most of them went sort of straight up and a little to the right. I'm gonna have lots of fun with this here 1911, yes sir. Also, I went straight from the range and picked up a nice Galco Cop Series three slot holster, this .45 deserves good leather.

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June 18, 2004, 05:12 PM
There ya have it ladies and laddies! Unrehearsed testimony
from yet another satisfied Magic Slurry customer...Yessiree-bob!
That stuff is the best stuff since Grandpappy Tunerfish's Snake-Oil
Potion and Horse Linament hit the market in aught-four.

Pythonman...After arguin' with the dang thing for near on 4,000 rounds, I
caved in and replaced the ejector. Problem solved. About a 50/50 chance of your extractor goin' south by 1K, so save yourself a headache andgo ahead and order a Brown Hardcore. I used a Cylinder & Slide spring
steel part in mine, but the hook was way yonder too long and the lower
edge of the wall needed a little tweak before I was happy with it.

Luck to ya!


June 18, 2004, 05:44 PM
Tuner, I will order the extractor but I haven't ever messed with any small parts removal other than field stripping the 1911. Is this a straight pull out and replace operation or should I get a smith to do it for $30. Also is the ejector good to go or does it need *tuning*? Thanks again and boy is the gun slicked up good now. Reminds me of my old Beretta 92s slick action.

June 18, 2004, 06:56 PM
Howdy Pythonman,

The extractor is a cakewalk. Push in on the firing pin, and let the stop plate drop out the bottom...Keep your thumb over the back of the slide,
or the firing pin and spring will launch into orbit...or your eye if you're
lookin' at it. Pull the firing pin and spring out, and use a small screwdriver in the extractor slot where the FP stop plate was to lever the extractor out
the back. If you take the spring off the firing pin, remember that it goes on one way, and is a light press-on fit.

The ejector is a bit more involved...The pin that holds it is solid instead of a roll pin...thank GAWD! A 1/16th rod will drift it out. The new ejector will need a little fitting, and if you've never done it, I'd suggest a smith's
services unless you just want to have a go at it. If you do, order two
of'em...'cause you'll likely kill the first one during the learnin' process.
Ask me how I know...:rolleyes:

If you get an extended(Brown) ejector, it'll need to be shortened to allow live-round ejection with factory ball ammo, and maybe/maybe not with shorter, hollowpoint ammo. Also a chance of needing to open up the port a little at the front, but a good smith can blend it so well that you won't even notice the difference. If you use a standard ejector...and I recommend a Colt ejector for that won't need to do anything to the port, and very little, if any, tuning on the ejector.



June 18, 2004, 10:41 PM
Where can I get the formula for this magic slurry?

June 19, 2004, 01:50 AM
I couldn't get my original thread in which 1911Tuner gave me his recipe and instructions for his Magic Slurry hyperlinked here for some reason, so I have went ahead and typed the recipe and application out as described to me as closely as possible, along with more detail as to what I actually did with my 1911.

Karate, the recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of Breakfree CLP (shake well before using) and then add enough J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound ( I found this great stuff at Gander Mountain BTW) so that when mixed up it just sags off the end of a screwdriver. Let set open over night and then stir again good before using. What I did was to field strip the gun, smear the stuff all over the slide rails, lugs and inside the barrel bushing where the barrel will make contact, reassembled the gun and started with cycling the slide as described above. Tuner recommends 100 cycles followed by another application of the slurry followed by another 100 cycles. After this process is complete, wipe everything off and spray with the recommended clean-off (Gunk Carb Medic is the preferred stuff, I had good luck with Gummout Carb and Choke cleaner as there's no plastic in my G.I. Springfield) and do remember to remove your wood or plastic grips before doing any of this. Follow up the carb cleaning off with a regular solvent cleaning and scrubbing and re-oiling and yer done! My new Springfield felt like I'd taken it to a master gunsmith for tuning/custom polishing after I was through with it.

For more detail of the procedure find my original thread of my new G.I. Springfield Range Report from a week ago and you'll find 1911Tuners post of his recipe and get anything I've missed or omitted here. Thanks again Tuner!

June 19, 2004, 06:54 AM
That slurry recipe ain't mine...and it's not a big secret amongst the
pros. J&B non-embedding compound has been used straight up as
a mild lapping compound for when more aggressive laps were too much,
and oil wasn't enough. Embedded into denim under thumb pressure,
and laying the cloth on a piece of plate glass, it makes a dandy
buffing/polishing tool for the final "slick" on trigger bows, disconnectors,

Mixing it with the CLP Breakfree makes it a little less aggressive, and
as the compound knocks off the high spots, the teflon base is forced
into the pores of the steel, and makes for a slick piece of work.

In the days before J&B, we used Du Pont Rubbing Compound...606-S, I believe...and even toothpaste. Pearl Drops worked pretty well...



June 21, 2004, 02:06 PM
I used it on my Springfield Mil-Spec per Tuner's recommendations. Believe me, it works!

June 22, 2004, 07:07 PM
Never saw J-B Bore Cleaning Compound before--where can one find it?

When I first saw the word "Toothpaste" in Tuner's last post, I thought to myself "Nahhh... "

'Til I tried it. Smeared on all internal parts where they rub, but only cycled the action about 45-50 times before rinsing it all off in warm water :eek: :p and re-applying and doing another 40-45. Rinsed, blasted it all dry with compressed air, and oiled. It wasn't a 1911... it was an AK. :o :rolleyes:

Now, I know that they're built to be rough, and that no amount of smoothing the action will do much good, but belive you me, folks--Tuner knows his polishing stuff. I then did a ton of other polishing to other stuff, including my always-on-me Leatherman (opens one-handed now!), polished the blade of my Stainless Buck 119 to a quasi-mirror finish, etc.

MMMmmm... minty fingers... :rolleyes: :uhoh: :p

P.S. Here's that first thread where Magic Slurry came up:

June 23, 2004, 11:44 AM
Howdy Dionysusigma,

If you can't find it in a gun store, Brownells has it. I'll dig into the
catalog later on and get the part number and post it.

If you think that AK is slick after the toothpaste...just wait'll ya try the slurry.



June 23, 2004, 03:33 PM
Would Flitz work as well as your slurry? Any down side to using Flitz?

June 23, 2004, 05:47 PM
Howdy rljan,
Flitz would probably do okay for a polish job, but the trick to the slurry is the CLP Breakfree. The teflon base works its way into the pores of the steel and add more smoooooth to the action. :cool:

It's well worth the money spent, and a little goes a long way. 10 bucks
will make enough slurry to add slickum to dozens of guns.



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