[FunYet]

Anyone know if there is a solvent that will dissolve Loctite without damaging the finish of a S&W 642? I used a few drops on the nut at the end of the crane bolt since it kept working itself loose and (feel free to laugh here) I can no longer open the gun. The cylinder still turns but the cylinder release will not move forward. Fortunately there are no rounds in the gun. One heck of a safety!

[Standing Wolf]

Heat.

[DBR]

I think Loctite makes a solvent. They have a website. I have had good luck using Liquid Wrench and modest heat like from a hair dryer. It will definitely fail at about 350 degrees F.

[Monkeyleg]

FunYet, it depends upon the type of Loctite that was applied. If it was the red stuff, you're going to need a torch to heat it up to the melting point. That means that the finish on your gun is pretty much, well...finished.

If it was the blue or purple Loctite, take a soldering iron to the head of the bolt or screw in question. Keep the iron right on that fastener, and don't drift to other parts. It doesn't take much heat to loosen up the blue or purple stuff. Worst case may be that you'll have to order a new screw or bolt from the factory.

Good luck.

Dick
Loctite junkie

[Bullet]

A friend of mine wanted to take a compensator off his barrel . It was on with red loctite. He soaked it in gun solvent or Kroil oil (I can't remember which for sure) for a week and it came off without heat. This might be worth a try.

[PJR]

If it's the blue loctite heat it with a hair dryer. This is the method I used when discovering the previous owner of my SW Model 10 used loctite to fasten in the sideplate screws.:rolleyes:

[C.R.Sam]

Agree with PJR...hair dryer.

Also..."a few drops" is way too much. A drop'll do ya.

Sam

[Highland Ranger]

C4

[Monkeyleg]

Highland Ranger: "C4"

So, can we assume that when you disassemble your Loctited guns, they're pretty much disassembled for good? ;)

[shep854]

A new gun sill do the job nicely--especially if you can get a trade-in.;)

[FunYet]

Thanks for all of the great suggestions.

I did try the hairdryer to head up the Loctite but it did not want to give up its hold. Turns out too much Loctite had dripped down along the center pin, despite the great care I used when applying the Loctite. I decided to not use a torch due to the clear-coat surface of the 642 and I don’t want to end up annealing the metal.

Here’s what I ended up doing. I used a Dremel tool and a sidecutter wheel to (very carefully!) cut through the extractor rod and center pin. Once this was done I used vice grips to carefully unscrew what was left of the extractor pin. This allowed me to open the chamber. I ordered replacement parts for everything I cut up. The total cost of the parts is about $25.00. I consider myself lucky considering what it could have ended up costing me.

Happy ending to a potentially sad story. I did end up putting a couple of very tiny nicks in the outside of the barrel with the vise grips but I’ll live with them.