[Drizzt]

OK, finally added a revolver to my collection. Now all my HKs are going to start thinking they aren't special anymore. Picked up a good looking Ruger Blackhawk last week, with interchangable cylinders to shoot .45Colt and .45acp. Didn't have a chance to shoot it until today. Went through about 50 rounds of LC, then decided to switch and shoot some acp. I found out that the cylinder release has an odd habit of twisting when pulling it out, and it got stuck. I couldn't secure either cylinder in it until I got it back home and worked the release free.

I had a lot of fun shooting the .45LC rounds. Never shot those before. Pretty cool. Still working on trying to aim this thing right, though, because of that HUGE front blade sight.

Don't get me wrong, I still like this gun, it's just going to take some getting used to.

[Josey]

HUH? I don't think I understand. The cylinder pin is all that there is. You push in on the cylinder pin latch, remove the cylinder pin and switch cylinders. Reverse order and shoot some more. I can't see where you had difficulty. My own Ruger single actions have had their cylinder pins replaced. They tended to back out with recoil. I installed Belt Mountain locking base pins. ?:confused:

[Majic]

I think I understand. The base pin has a cut out on the front end that matches the contour of the barrel. Try holding the base pin straight (don't turn it with your fingers) while pulling the base pin out of the frame. Do the same when re-inserting the pin. Also wiggling the cylinder will help with the alignment of the base pin.

[Jim March]

Ya, the trick is to open the loading gate IF the base pin sticks out, grab the back end of the cylinder and *gently* wiggle it around as you're either inserting or removing the base pin.

When removing the pin, the FIRST thing you should try is pulling it while the loading gate is CLOSED.

If it's not sliding out free at that point, I would recommend pulling the base pin out completely (you'll have to remove the ejector housing and rod, look for one screw near the muzzle). Inspect the base pin for scratches, wear, warping, etc. Roll it on a sheet of flat glass to check for warping (same as on a pushrod for a VW or whatever).

If there is ANY question in your mind about the base pin, $24 with shipping gets you a MUCH better one at http://www.beltmountain.com - or spend a hair more on the extra-fancy "number five" type :). The Five is a good choice on convertables because it's extra-easy to grab.

They're made of better steel and to higher tolerances, and it's not uncommon to see one improve accuracy noticably.