[Parke1]

Ok, so here's the scoop. I'm trying to swap my mil-spec hammer for a commander style. I need to drive out the hammer strut pin so I can swap the strut over to the new hammer.

WHAT IS WITH THIS PIN?!? Try as I might, I can't seem to get it out. Is there some super-secret trick to this thing that only 1911tuner knows?

Thanks for any help you can give!

-Parke1

[Parke1]

Never mind, I got it.


...I just needed to use a bigger hammer. :rolleyes:

Thanks anyway.
-Parke1

[stans]

There is NO problem that a bigger hammer, or possibly a Dremel, can't fix!:D

[Jim K]

Those pins are (or should be) staked in place. They can't fall out when the hammer is in the frame, but if not staked can get lost when the gun is disassembled. Re-stake when finished. Same for the link pin.

Jim

[Parke1]

Thanks for the tip, Jim! Will do!

Of course, the whole hammer swap was aborted, since the commander hammer I purchased wouldn't fit with the Ed Brown beavertail I installed.

So now I'm back to having a mil-spec 1911 with a couple shiny, ground-down frame ears. :rolleyes:

Sheesh. Anyone have a low profile commanderish SS hammer lying around that needs a good home?!?

-Parke1

[1911Tuner]

Parke said/asked:

Sheesh. Anyone have a low profile commanderish SS hammer lying around that needs a good home?

I've got one that came off a stainless XSE Commander...Low mileage
and in good shape. It's the McCormick-style slotted hammer. Dunno
if it'll do any different with your ducktail GS though...Why won't yours work?
Not lettin' the hammer come to full cock?

[popeye]

Aren't all the Ed Brown GS's the "high hold" style requiring material removal from upper frame? You may be able to remove material from lower step on GS to get enough forward travel to cock gun.

[Wichaka]

From what I've heard from other 'smiths, is because the radius is different on a SA it takes the S&A GS as it has a .220 radius instead of the normal .250

I've got a Wilson Commander hammer which is a dead ringer for a stock Colt Commander hammer, with the round head.

[BigG]

And some people say all 1911s are alike. :rolleyes:

[Parke1]

Tuner, you're exactly right. Once I get the gun all assembled as is, the hammer is too long, and it bumps against the grip safety before the gun will cock.

I may have come up with a brilliant :rolleyes: solution here. I took a milspec hammer to work with me today, and ground off about 3/16ths of an inch off the spur. Think of it as a somewhat bobbed hammer. I left enough for positive thumb-to-hammer engagement, but it's abbreviated. I haven't had a chance to install it yet, but I think it'll solve the whole situation. Plus now it's really a custom piece. :D

I'll post again and let everyone know how it turned out.

Thanks for the help.
-Parke1