Hornady Lock'n Load AP ???'s


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insidious_calm
August 3, 2004, 06:36 PM
Found a new in box Lock n load AP at a garage sale sunday for $200. The guy had one set of dies (.308) and a lyman 500 powder scale also NIB. Bought it all for $200 cash. Have never reloaded before and this seemed like a good deal. What have I got myself into?:D and what else do I need? Where do I start?


Thanks.


I.C.

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JoeHatley
August 3, 2004, 07:09 PM
I'd start by ordering the latest Honady manual. It will not only get you a ton of loading data, but they have a pretty good how/to section. If the press didn't have it's instructions still in the box, a call to Hornady should get you what you need. I think they may even have a video available...

Good Luck, and BTW nice deal!!!

Joe

tc300mag1
August 3, 2004, 07:24 PM
Great deal .. Get the manual and couple of loading manuals

insidious_calm
August 3, 2004, 10:13 PM
but I have a couple of questions. The press has five stations. I've gathered that two of them must be only for pistol cases. What puzzles me is when/how often should I clean the cases? Should the cases be deprimed and sized before cleaning or after? If after, do I need to worry about the primer pocket? Also, should I trust "once fired" brass I see in ads to actually be once fired? How many times can a case be reloaded and how do you keep track?

I ordered the latest two volume set from hornady and a dial caliper and some other stuff. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again


I.C.

Black Snowman
August 4, 2004, 10:48 AM
What puzzles me is when/how often should I clean the cases? Should the cases be deprimed and sized before cleaning or after?
Clean the brass every time before resizing. The clean brass won't wear or scratch your dies and will help the brass and the dies last longer.

If after, do I need to worry about the primer pocket?
Only if you're going for extreme accuracy or it's military brass with a crimped primer pocket.

Also, should I trust "once fired" brass I see in ads to actually be once fired?

Depends a lot on the source but I think condition is more important than the number of firings.

How many times can a case be reloaded and how do you keep track?

Depends on a lot of factors. The quality of the brass and type are main ones. .308, properly trimmed and occasionally annealed can last for quite a few loadings. Bottle neck pistol rounds are notorious for not lasting long (.357 Sig and 7.62x25 are the most common examples). Straight walled revolver cases can usually be reloaded until the mouth's split without drama.

Bronson7
August 4, 2004, 10:56 AM
Great Deal, Insidious. All five stations are used for the cartridge you're loading at the time. Did you get a manual with the press? If not, get one along with a loading manual. I've not used this press, but understand it's a good one.
Bronson7

ClarkEMyers
August 4, 2004, 05:52 PM
Handloader Magazine had a cover story last month on the Hornady press. Buy it.

Among items not already mentioned, you will need case lube before you stick the first case in a die. It might be spray or wax applied with fingers or rag or a greasy solution applied by rolling the case over a stamp pad or as you decide. Aerosol has its advantages, but I just might go Imperial Wax if I bought a lot of once fired .308 as you might be thinking about doing and ran them through a small base die.

On the number of stations issue Dillon's Blue Press recently had an article on effective number of stations that might answer some of your questions. See also the various lockout or other check dies for one way to fill die stations.

baker1425
August 7, 2004, 09:53 PM
I've got the earlier version of that press that I've used for about seven years or so. I got it used and called hornady. They sent me a set of instructions for free.

There's a lot of small parts that go with that press, including primer arms, etc. A manual would give you an idea of what all was there.

The five stage is a great help for loading pistol and rifle. For example, the 45 setup I use is
1 Size/deprime 2 reprime no die 3 powder drop 4 bullet seat 5 factory crimp die

the 223 rifle setup is even quicker .
1. RCBS deprime/lube die 2. prime/size small base RCBS 3. charge/lee rifle charing die 4. seat bullet 5. lee factory crimp.

With the shell plate for the 308, you can do 45/ I'd buy the lee set of carbide dies, the modern reloading manual from lee, and a lee autodisk to get you chunking the loads out


great buy and a fun hobby!

insidious_calm
August 8, 2004, 02:15 PM
Ok, I got a manual. looks like it's all there. It also had a couple of abridged reloading guides from various powder mfg. I also just bought a new speer manual and a hornady set. I also bought a set of .45 ACP dies from hornady as .308 and .45 are what I mostly shoot. In terms of .308 my main interest will be match grade loads. As I said I got this on a whim because of price and unused condition. Can I do match loads with this set up? All I know is at $350-$400 a case for 500 rds of match .308 surely I can do it better and cheaper.

What I thought is I would hand weigh each charge rather than using the automatic powder drop. Also I bought ceramic media for my tumbler and I see I will need to decap before I clean to do it right. Any suggestions on a de-capping only tool?

Also, how much affect will "match grade brass" have on my loads? I'm not so much concerned with the .45 but definately .308 stuff. I am considering working up a load with the hornady moly AMAX 178gr. The gun is an AR-10T. Any suggestions on that?


Thanks all again for the help.


I.C.

ClarkEMyers
August 8, 2004, 03:50 PM
Punch and base works for decapping everything including GI crimped primers.

On the other hand I am getting more worried about lead exposure every year - maybe a decap punch only die in a press that captures primer and compound neatly as the Bonanza/Forster Co-Ax does.

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