[Marshall]

OK, anyone know the reason why Winchester didn't do the receiver on the Coastal Marine, besides cost? Makes the whole think rather pointless, does it not?

http://www.winchester-guns.com/prodinfo/catalog/images/512908308m.jpg

[Dave McCracken]

Alloy receivers don't rust.....

[Marshall]

Ahhh, thats what I get for 2am posting. :D

No steel, bummer. I thought aluminum alloy was still somewhat prone to corrosion.

Is Mossbergs Mariner receiver aluminum or steel?

[romulus]

Aluminum alloy...

[Sir Galahad]

I'm the warranty repairman for a manufacturer of a certain product that is used on lots of yachts. This product's exterior is aluminum. I've not seen corrosion on the exterior of this product that impedes normal operation, even on 5 year old specimens. If you do your part and keep the weapon clean, oiled, and out of the drink, it'll last just fine. Even more so since the receiver is coated. I haven't seen the marine close up, but the receiver must either anodized or powdercoated. Either one is fine.

The thing to watch for with aluminum and marine environments is galvanic corrosion prompted by the aluminum in close contact with some types of plastics and synthetics. That corrosion can eat aluminum away. As such, I'd avoid putting a side saddle on a marine shotgun. This corrosion is caused by a reaction between the seawater, air and the synthetic and causes a caustic action on the aluminum and literally eats it away while also making the synthetic brittle to the point of crumbling and cracking. Synthetics like some polyester based ones are particularly prone. If it's flexible, it's a possible galvanic corrosion promoter. Leave the side saddle off. Use a butt cuff of fabric.

[Marshall]

Yes, it says it's anodized aluminum alloy with plated key parts.

I see where Mossberg has nickle finished their Mariner. I would think that would be a better choice? Sir Galahad, your opinion?

I can't find what they say about their trigger assembly?

http://www.mossberg.com/pcatalog/images/0250273.gif

[Sir Galahad]

Myself, I would take anodized over nickel any day. On a nickle plating, it has to be perfect. A flaw in one place, and salt water will creep under it and lift the plating off. On sharp edges, the plating will be thinner and the water can get under it there, too. Bad powdercoat is the same way. One thin spot and water gets under it and creeps along the whole surface under the coating and you can peel it off in whole sheets like skin off an onion. Anodizing is a lot more resistant because it's a surface treatment, not just plating over the surface. Take a look at old nickel plated firearms and you'll see some that are pitted just from the salts in body oils from handling. A lot of plating and powdercoating also relies on the initial treatment prior to plating for it to "stick" for the long haul. On powdercoating, for example, if the surface is not alodyned first, the powdercoat will hardly last a year in a marine environment. You'll have no way of knowing what the surface prep was on a plating job.

You have to also keep the weapon lightly oiled on the surface metals. Nothing is "proof" against marine environments. Only resistant better than others. I'd go with the Winchester.

[Sir Galahad]

By the way, the coating on the receiver is not that important really. It's the galvanic corrosion you have to worry about. Keep the side saddle off and it shouldn't be a problem. A little surface oxidation on a receiver won't impede operation. It's the barrel, innards, magazine and bolt that need to be marine grade. Here's a hint. There is a marine grade protectant called "Tef-Gel" that is a Teflon paste. You can apply it to screw threads and surfaces to prevent corrosion. It works, too. I've seen 5 year old Tef-Gel treated bolts with the Tef-Gel still soft and gooey. You could probably use it to protect the inards of your shotgun and it would work as a lubricant, too, in place of grease. But that's a theory, now, as far as using it as a lubricant. You'll need to test that for yourself. But many lubricants have teflon in them, so it should work.

[Marshall]

OK great info! Why do they both nickle plate the bbls then? Because they are steel?

[Sir Galahad]

I was under the impression that the barrels were stainless steel.

[m14nut]

Galahad:

The Barrels are stainless, as is the Receiver. My brother just bought one.

The Trigger housing, trigger and assorted goodies are plastic, short of the hammer which looks to me like white metal???:confused:
Rifled slug BBL and a great price; $265.00 + tax. I think he did OK

I own the 20 ga. defender, it is an alloy receiver and appears to be powder coated.

[goosegunner]

Nickle coated and stainless steel shotguns are mostly for people who don't have the time or don't like to take care of their gun. (and ofcourse they look tactical and cool) I use my grandfaters all-steel single shot in "marine conditions" (sand and saltwater) and as long as I wash it with freshwater and soap and oil it after use there are no problems. (But if I wait till the day after the gun changes color from black to brown).