Lee Bulge Buster 40 s&w

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JO JO

JO JO

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new to reloading 40 cal, my 40s are p229 and xd40sc, will only reload my own
brass and new starline brass so my question is do I need to use a Lee Bulge Buster kit ? I will most likely order a lee fcd for it, the 3 piece die set I have
is the Hornady custom grade titanium set.
Thanks for any advise in advance:)
 
You most likely can get by with out the Lee Bulge Buster if you are using the same brass in your guns. And if you are dead set that you will never use range brass then there is really no need for one unless you start having failure to feed problems. I have the four die set from lee that comes with the LFC die. I load on a LNL and since I have enough stations I use the LFC die to do the crimping. If I was still using a single stage I most likely would crimp and seat with the seater die to save time. I reload for my glocks and all of my brass comes from a source that I know all of it is once fired through glocks. I have seen some nice brass that had big bellies fired in gen2 glocks. I resized and loaded without using a buldge buster and they shot fine, but I cannot say that they would work in your gun. Although I didnt have any problems I started wsing the buldge buster as part of my case prep. My brass also does not have the buldge after I reload it. There are so many gizmos and accessories on the market that will make your wallet lighter, but it is up to you to decide if you need it.
 
Of course you don't NEED it. If you did, it would be part of the kit.
If you load near max or if you use range pick-up brass, you will almost certainly find cases that will have a raised "ridged" over part of the web area. This is where the case bulge has been squeezed down.
My rule is "if I can see the bulge, the case is too damaged for me to want to shot it." All my brass that passes inspection goes through the Lee Bulge Buster, but I tend to have 40 years of picking up brass.
Need to get the same thing for 9x19, but it would take a slightly over-sized 9mm Mak FCD to work.
 
Just looked it up... Both of your firearms have a fully supported chamber... If you are using only your own brass fired in your own guns or virgin brass, you do not now or in the future need a bulge buster.
 
It is not nessessary or would have existed long ago and be produced by everyone these days. I can tell you, because I have a few casepro roll sizing machines that cleaning up the rim (part that's in the shell plate with any normal dies) makes rounds that would normally fail the casegauge, pass.
 
I'm a brass rat. I pick up everythinig I find. The Bulge Buster works really well. If you ever intend to cast your own bullets for the 40 you might consider getting the 401 Sizing Kit. It comes with the plunger needed to push brass up through the FCD in the Bulge Buster. That way you don't have to buy both.
 
I use a normal set of Lee carbide dies in my Dillon 550 and have used once fired Glock brass without any problems. I scrap my 40 S&W brass after 4 reloads. I do not believe in using the Lee FCD. A normal dies set is designed to produce ammunition which will chamber in ones gun if one pays attentiomn to what they are doing.
 
Redding G-Rx Push Through (carbide). Like it, use it. Need it? Probably not but it alerts me to really big bellied cases which I dispose of. I use it because I use lots of range brass and most is fired from Glocks.
 
I reload for a Gen3 Glock 40. Even without full support, I shoot max loads without bulging brass. When I say max, I mean max. They were causing malfunctions until I replaced the stock spring for a 20lb-er.

I say hold off on the pushthrough die until you find a need for it.
 
Were it not for the early Glock .40's with the, shall we say "generous" feed ramps, the "Bulge Buster kits" would never have been invented.

And I shoot a 1st. Gen Glock 23.
And I don't need a bulge buster kit, because I don't try to make a 10MM out of it with my reloads.

rc
 
I pick up a lot of once fired 40S&W brass shot from Glocks at the range. Even the premium JHP brass resize well in my progressive press/Lee carbide dies to drop in freely into the tight Lone Wolf chambers. Most look like the picture below. If they just quite don't fall in freely, I use the single stage press to resize as the standard shell holder allows the resizing die to come down further than the shell plate of the progressive press.

Overly bulged cases I have issues with are from the hot reloaded cases with a "guppy" belly at the base. I toss those cases to be recycled.

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
I worry that the G-Rx and bulge busters give a false sense of security to .40 reloaders. Once the brass has been stretched and thinned, running it through a die is not going to re-thicken the brass where the bulge was.
 
PO2Hammer said:
I worry that the G-Rx and bulge busters give a false sense of security to .40 reloaders. Once the brass has been stretched and thinned, running it through a die is not going to re-thicken the brass where the bulge was.
Click to expand...
I am not concerned about it. I use the once fired brass for low to medium loads, never max loads which I only load in pristine brass or factory once fired brass from my firearm. I also toss the brass after 7 to 10 re-loadings. My firearm also has a supported chamber (I won't say "fully" because this is a minomer). And as I mentioned, any case that is too buldged, goes into the recycle bin anyways.

I use the G-Rx simply to identify the brass that has a large belly. It is easier than measuring each case with a mic, especially when I do one thousand at a time. It's a time saver for me.

I know the limitation of the push through die and take the necessary precautions.
 
PO2Hammer said:
I worry that the G-Rx and bulge busters give a false sense of security to .40 reloaders. Once the brass has been stretched and thinned, running it through a die is not going to re-thicken the brass where the bulge was.
Click to expand...
HK SD9 Tactical said:
And as I mentioned, any case that is too bulged, goes into the recycle bin anyways.
Click to expand...
I believe the original intent of the Lee Bulge Buster or the G-Rx push-through resizing dies was to use them once to resize the base of the case that regular resizing dies could not reduce. Then to use the regular resizing die for subsequent reloadings. For me, the OCD makes me toss/recycle cases I cannot resize with the regular resizing die and the single stage press/shell holder. 40S&W is the most popular case I pick up at the range and it's easier/faster to toss the case than to push-through resize in the FCD.

If your powder/charge loads are continuing to bulge the case to the point where Bulge Buster/G-Rx need to be used repeatedly, I would be concerned and reduce the powder charge, change to a different powder or use a tighter chambered barrel so the brass won't bulge so much and decrease the chance of weakening the brass.

People have asked/PMed about me using "faster burning" W231/HP-38 and 40S&W with mixed range brass. Mid-to-high range load data of W231/HP-38, when shot in factory Glock barrels, slightly bulge the cases that are readily resized with the Lee resizing die and pass the drop test in tight Lone Wolf chambers. I have shot near max/max load data of W231/HP-38 and other slower powders (WSF, HS-6, Universal, Power Pistol, Unique) but prefer to shoot them in tighter chambered Lone Wolf barrels that will not bulge the cases. Spent cases from LW barrels will resize with very minimal effort on the ram lever. I have reloaded a test batch of once-fired brass using mid-to-high range load data of W231/HP-38 in LW barrels and stopped the test after 50+ reloadings when there was no case failure or case neck splits.

Regardless of the powder/charges used, bulging of cases should be one of many indicators for reloaders to check the power/charge/chamber size. If the bulges are excessive to the point where the use of Bulge Buster is required repeatedly, I would be concerned and make some changes.

If your bulges can be reduced with the regular resizing die, I would adjust the powder charge so I get accuracy and reliable slide cycling with the lowest charge to minimize the bulging.

If your pistol chamber is tight and you do not get bulging with published load data, look for the usual pressure signs and shoot away!
 
bds said:
I believe the original intent of the Lee Bulge Buster or the G-Rx push-through resizing dies was to use them once to resize the base of the case that regular resizing dies could not reduce. Then to use the regular resizing die for subsequent reloadings. For me, the OCD makes me toss/recycle cases I cannot resize with the regular resizing die and the single stage press/shell holder. 40S&W is the most popular case I pick up at the range and it's easier/faster to toss the case than to push-through resize in the FCD.

If your powder/charge loads are continuing to bulge the case to the point where Bulge Buster/G-Rx need to be used repeatedly, I would be concerned and reduce the powder charge, change to a different powder or use a tighter chambered barrel so the brass won't bulge so much and decrease the chance of weakening the brass.

People have asked/PMed about me using "faster burning" W231/HP-38 and 40S&W with mixed range brass. Mid-to-high range load data of W231/HP-38, when shot in factory Glock barrels, slightly bulge the cases that are readily resized with the Lee resizing die and pass the drop test in tight Lone Wolf chambers. I have shot near max/max load data of W231/HP-38 and other slower powders (WSF, HS-6, Universal, Power Pistol, Unique) but prefer to shoot them in tighter chambered Lone Wolf barrels that will not bulge the cases. Spent cases from LW barrels will resize with very minimal effort on the ram lever. I have reloaded a test batch of once-fired brass using mid-to-high range load data of W231/HP-38 in LW barrels and stopped the test after 50+ reloadings when there was no case failure or case neck splits.

Regardless of the powder/charges used, bulging of cases should be one of many indicators for reloaders to check the power/charge/chamber size. If the bulges are excessive to the point where the use of Bulge Buster is required repeatedly, I would be concerned and make some changes.

If your bulges can be reduced with the regular resizing die, I would adjust the powder charge so I get accuracy and reliable slide cycling with the lowest charge to minimize the bulging.

If your pistol chamber is tight and you do not get bulging with published load data, look for the usual pressure signs and shoot away!
Click to expand...
When I pick up range brass, I deprime, clean, then send the brass through the G-Rx die. Only after that does it get loaded on my progressive. With the progressive, I can not get the entire full length sizing. That is the reason I went with the 'bulge buster' as you call it.

Many people shoot .40 at the range I utilize. Who knows where the brass came from. So when I pick up my brass, chances are more than not, that I am also picking up someones' elses' brass (it's a pretty sure bet because I always come home with more than I shoot). Because I can not at all times seperate my fired brass from others that I pick up at the range, I go through the deprime, clean, and G-Rx die again. That prevents a 'bulged' case from making it through to the progressive without being checked. It's not that big a deal because I cycle through 1000 cases before the "bulge buster" makes it out of the storage bin.

I don't mind doing it because it is another step that might catch something that my tired eyes might miss. For me, to spend an hour "bulge busting" 1000 cases, is well worth the insurance so that a missed case will not make it through.

It is also why I use a Lee FCD with the carbide ring to make sure the case has been returned to specs.

It may be anal, or OCD, or whatever, but for me it's worth it. It's not my brass that I worry about, it's the "other" guys brass. I never do a max load on a .40 S&W in used brass. Not worth the potential loss of my HK USPC.
 
I think you guys know what you're doing with .40 brass. I throw out the guppies too and never aim for top end loads with range brass. My comment was meant for the unwashed masses who don't get as deep into the hobby as we do.
The G-Rx and Bulge Buster seem to be marketed as cure alls for .40 brass.
 
I haven't had any problems with any of my pistols buldging the brass. I load for an XD sub compact, XDM, and 2 Taurus's, a 24/7 and a Milenium. So far so good using HS6 and Longshot high end data, and jacketed bullets.

I've heard some discussion about chambers that don't have enough support, usually near the ramp I guess, but I've never had that issue, not even with my 9mm's either?
 
jmorris - lee aint the only one with a kit.. rcbs has one now too.
Click to expand...

There are a few out there and likey more to come if they can sell them but they are "new" to the reloading world in general. One version of the push through sizer that has been around for a while is Magma's case master. I liked the fact that it could size almost 6000 cases an hour but went with the casepro so I could clean up the extractor grove at the same time.
 
HK wrote "When I pick up range brass, I deprime, clean, then send the brass through the G-Rx die.... I can not get the entire full length sizing. That is the reason I went with the 'bulge buster' as you call it."

Same reason I do it but I use the Lee set up. It's fast, gives me peace of mind that I did all I could to ensure safety and my ammo shoots pretty darn good.
 
PO2Hammer said:
I think you guys know what you're doing with .40 brass. I throw out the guppies too and never aim for top end loads with range brass. My comment was meant for the unwashed masses who don't get as deep into the hobby as we do.
The G-Rx and Bulge Buster seem to be marketed as cure alls for .40 brass.
Click to expand...
Well said. There are many individuals out there that are new to reloading and are unaware of the falacies that these percieved "bulge busters" provide. Like all "tools", there are only as good as the operators behind them, and must be used only as a additional step of many in the process or reloading.

It does no harm to re-iterate the dangers that may arise from the use of these items. And as indicated, these "bulge busters" DO NOT return the brass to near original condition, they only remove the bulges and can give the re-loaders a false sense of security in that it may be thought that the "bulge busters" are a cure all for the unsuported case issues that arise, which they are not.

Ultimate caution is advised, particulary on these buldged cases.
 
+1 on false sense of security!

If you pick up/buy mixed range brass others may have reloaded, the overly bulged cases could have been loaded with near/over max charged loads several times with stretched and thinned case walls. Use of push-through resizing dies will not make the case walls thicker or restore the brass characteristics/quality back to factory new conditions. The work hardening may decrease the ability of brass to give/reshape on subsequent loadings/firings that may lead to case failure.

It is for these reasons why I choose to toss/recycle 40S&W cases that I cannot resize with regular resizing die and not use max load data for mixed ranged brass.

I would consider the use of "bulge busters" for overly bulged once-fired brass but would be concerned on their repeated use, especially with near max/max load data.
 
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Our SMG's chambers make "glocked" brass seem perfect. If you want to make it like new again this is what we use.

Dump cases into the collator

DSC02028-1.jpg

This shows how the die restores the entire base of the case as well as the extractor grove

DSC02110.jpg

Click on this photo to see it run

th_casepro.jpg
 
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