Remington Model 11 Help/Questions (pics!)

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Hey everyone,

So a couple days ago I picked up this Remington Model 11 "The Sportsman" for $175 + tax. This shotgun is awesome, but will be more of a fun-gun as I really don't plan to hunt with it (maybe, that depends on if I want to go after a deer with some buckshot when/where rifles are restricted).

First, I would like to remove the block in the magazine tube so I can fill it to capacity. Currently it only holds two shells in there, which I know is standard for the "sportsman" model. How do I go about doing this? I've searched online and even found a thread on it in this forum but it didn't truly answer my question. Will this permanently alter the gun? Or will I be able to change it back if I'd like to try and get a bird or something?

Second, I'd like to consider making this more of a "social" shotgun. I saw some pictures of this gun in a riot configuration and it looked SWEET. I saw an article/post where the author had used a remington 1100/870 extension and used a spacer to fill the gap where the threads were exposed. Is it possible to use one of these extensions on the sportman model? I think someone said something about the magazine tube being crimped and therefore it would be impossible to add the extension without replacing the whole tube or permanently modifying the current one.

Another thing I'd like to know is how reliable these guns are. The one I have has a serial number of 4135xx, which I believe dates it to 1937. I assume that if it's survived 76 years so far, there's no reason to believe it wont go another 76 years (after taking it apart that seems obvious as most of the parts are milled steel and VERY heavy..). Still, I'd like to know if there are any problems I can expect down the road, and what parts I should have on hand just in case something breaks.

I'd also like to know how tight to tighten the forearm screw. I know the forearms on these shotguns (and the A5) are prone to cracking, and I'd like to keep this one nice as the wood looks really cool. How tight is too tight? Are composite forearms available that are stronger?

Finally, I'd like you guys to look at the last picture and try and give me a rough estimate on the round count since it was previously cleaned. When I took it home and opened it up, it was the dirtiest gun I had ever seen. It's clean now, but if one of you could look at the picture and speculate the round count (since last being cleaned) my curiosity would really appreciate it :) Also, there is ZERO rust on the inside of this gun and the bore is mirror. There only very minor pitting on the outside of the receiver, but the edges are missing most (if not all in some places) of the bluing. I have no intention of refinishing this gun..it took 76 years to get it to look like this! :D

Here are some pictures, of course I'd like to know if I got a good deal or not :D I think I did alright ;)

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Thanks in advance,
- TNG
 
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I see you have started to disassemble the gun,good,it will need a good cleaning,they are normally filthy as you have found. They really are not that complicated. Its hard to tell, but clean the smegmus off the bolt and check for cracks,typically in the upper left area on the rear end of the bolt assembly.

The plug in the mag tube is probably some sort of wooden dowel. It can be easily removed and replaced if needed. If you are familiar with Remington's mag spring retainer(old style/metal),they are similar in removal and installation . No mag dimples on these,thats the "newer" Remington's,pretty easy to spot these.

The thread on the mag tube hasn't changed in 100 years,its just a little longer on these,typically about a 1/4". Mag tube extensions for the Remington will fit. Machine a spacer or find some metal shims at the hardware store to take up the space,and possibly add an o-ring if you want if you find the mag tube cap unloosens.The cap is just hand tightened,snug,but no death grip needed.

The recoil buffer in the rear of the receiver is probably toast,replace it with a new one(a few bucks) or make a better one from urethane 80/90 durometer (hard)about 1.125" diameter,3/16th thick does nicely. I just RTV these in place,works for me. Saves having to rivet them in place.

Replace the action spring in the stock,Wolff makes these and maybe put in new friction pieces(A-5). Make sure you set the recoil system up correctly for the types of loads you are using.

The forearm can be strengthened with fiberglass on the inside just like Remington does today on the 1100/1187,take a look at a new forearm.Cracks can be glued before fiberglassing.

Yes,these guns are very durable and reliable.A little elbow grease and a really good cleaning,new springs and friction pieces and you should be GTG.

Round count, who knows??

One last thing,the mag tube doesn't need much lube(on the outside) or any really,just use your favorite snake oil and then clean as much off of it with a clean soft rag/towel. In fact it will work better dry when shooting and the light lube is only to prevent rust during storage/down time.


http://www.leeroysramblings.com/remington_model_11.html
 
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+1 to what rodinal said. On the friction piece (the bronze part), unless it's cracked or worn completely out, don't replace it. A new piece will take a long time to wear in and beat you to death in the process.

They're a rock solid gun that will last (another) lifetime with a little TLC.

As to round count, who knows? The Remington built guns are every bit as well made as the Browning A5 and I've seen a Browning with large numbers downrange, as in over 250,000 shells, the majority of which were #1 short magnum buckshot. The only maintenance on that gun consisted of flushing 115/145 avgas down the bore and a quick spray down with WD40. That same gun fell from a helicopter on several occasions and the stock was repaired with JB Weld and copper wire.
 
Rodinal, unfortunately I am not familiar with the plug's removal (this is my first magazine-fed shotgun lol). However, I do have access to google so I will see what I can find for the old metal style like you mentioned. Unless you'd like to explain it to me ;) Also, thanks for the tips on the recoil buffer and forearm reinforcement. Is the purpose of the fiberglass to help cope with the reward force of the barrel as it recoils? Or is it more of an all-around rigidity thing since there is so much steel clunkin' and chunkin' around up there?

Let me clarify my round count question. How many rounds do you think it would take to make the bolt that dirty?

VA27, that sounds very interesting. What business did the gun have in the helicopter anyways?
 
Rem 11s and Auto 5s are very reliable, with one caveat. They have to be properly adjusted for heavy or light loads. When not done, this is the sort of thing that can get a design a bad name.
 
If not mistaken you would have to put a 5-shot mag tube and forearm on to increase capacity, My '48 production model 11 is just fine as a 3 shot, great shotguns.
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Both on the forearm.Browning recoil operated shotguns are known to crack the forearms after time. Remington learned from this even on their gas guns and fiberglass the inside.

Removing the magazine retainer:eek:ld style metal

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=13998/GunTechdetail/Shotgun-Magazine-Cork-Screw

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=14134/GunTechdetail/870-1100-Magazine-Spring-Retainer


If you do not have the Menk tool a flat bladed screwdriver can be used. Carefully pry from the inside and work all the way around the retainer. Its under pressure so be ready to capture it,WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Installation in reverse,just thumb it in place and LIGHTLY tap in place with a plastic mallet until seated flush.

Round count:impossible to tell.Don't worry about it.The gun will out live you.
 
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I guess my main question when removing the magazine plug/cap comes when I see the tube bent into the plug like this:

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I watched several youtube videos on how to remove these things, and even one person said the "push-down-and-turn" technique for the 870/1100 worked on his 1930 Model 11. I'm assuming that because mine is the Sportsman model, and is only supposed to hold 2+1, that I will have to dremel away the stakes/crimp as seen in the picture. I think I read of one person doing this somewhere with good results but I will have to find that article again to check before I might start grinding.

Would doing so hurt the value of the gun in any way? I mean, a semi 12ga in good operating condition should always be worth about $200 regardless of whether or not its been tinkered with..but I could be wrong.

- TNG
 
The "Sportsman" shotguns were manufactured as three shot guns, short magazine tube and no plug. To get higher capacity, you would need to change the magazine tube and forearm. Better to just live with three shots? The plus side is that the Sportsman fore ends are a little stronger than the regular model.
 
...Let me clarify my round count question. How many rounds do you think it would take to make the bolt that dirty?

VA27, that sounds very interesting. What business did the gun have in the helicopter anyways?

The guns run pretty clean, so it would take quite a few to get it that dirty. A more likely cause of the grime is a gun that was fired a coupla boxes of shells every season for 50 years or so, the bore swabbed and the gun wiped down at the end of the season, but never deep cleaned, so that even the dirt is antique!

Wildlfe Services, a division of the Department of the Interior, in cooperation with state agriculture departments, (a job formerly known as 'Federal Trapper'). Their duties include coyote and feral hog control, usually done from a helicopter. Three years ago they killed over 2000 feral hogs in my county alone. They also take blood samples from the animals to keep an eye on diseases in the feral populations. It's a great job...yes, you get paid to hunt and trap. No fishing though, you have to do that on your own time.:D
 
kp321, so what would happen if I were to cut those stakes? Would the whole thing fly out? When I push down on it, it doesn't go anywhere so I'm thinking its threaded in somehow. Is there a way to remove the follower from the action-side of the tube so I could look up in there a little better? Maybe the cap that is staked in is real long and that's what limits the capacity?

Headoftheholler, that is a beautiful Model 11! Even though it is 11 years younger than mine ;)
 
The tube is short enough that it doesn't need a plug to limit capacity. The plug you are seeing in the end of the tube is only 3/4" or so and is installed solidly to provide an anchor point for the fore end screw. The entire magazine can be screwed out of the receiver (with much difficulty sometimes)after removing the small screw on the left side of the receiver.
 
Ahhh...now it makes sense. I'm surprised I didn't realize how short the tube was in the first place :eek:

Thanks for all the input everyone!
 
Doh:eek:,my bad.Sorry T_N_G, kp321 is correct,forgot the Sportmans version were 2+1 with a blocked mag tube. I wouldn't mess with it,you have a nice gun,just give a good cleaning and going over,bring it back to life.
 
It had a good cleaning before I made this thread haha ;) Notice there ain't no gunk in the pictures of the gun...

I took that photo while cleaning it because I was so amazed!

I have taken her to the range twice now and so far low-recoil 00 buck and Estate dove loads cycle just fine (except for one FTE on the first 00) with the friction setting set for "heavy" loads. I haven't tried a round of trap with it yet but I will as soon as I get the chance!

She sure does shoulder and point well :D and to make things better this is my first semi-auto 12ga. Let me say this: (going from a single shot H&R 12ga....)

:evil:SO. MUCH. POWER!!!:evil:
 
If you want to increase the capacity to 3 +1 tap the staked ends of the tube outward slightly so that they are not inpeding the unscrewing of the end plug.

Unscrew endplug.

There is an aluminum pin on the inter part of the plug that extends into the magazine you can unscrew and remove this pin or on mine I just dremeled it off. This will allow the magazine to hold 3 rds + you will be able to hold one round in the chamber - making your sportsman a four shot.

When you put the thread plug back into the magazine tube you can re stake it by peening the ends of the tube back into the slot.
 
Thanks triangle, I will certainly keep that in mind. I think I'm just going to leave it the way it is for now though.
 
1100 receiver refurbished

Hi everyone,
I have a Remington 1100 LT 20 28" Barrel that my father bought me in 1985. It was a present for making Capt in the USAF, even though I didn't have the heart to tell him that everyone except complete morons made Capt. Anyway, although not considered a traditional Ruffed Grouse gun, I've bagged 100's through the years. I was injured on one trip when the gun was wet and it was put away for a season with no care. Surprisingly, the barrel is in good shape. The receiver incurred shallow pitting which I've recently resolved. Should I just re-blue the receiver or is there a way I could preserve the silver metallic look. It looks kind of nice. Obviously this gun is very sentimental to me. Thanks for listening to all the ramble.
 
Lt Col Jack Rat, you may want to try some VERY light steel wool to remove any remaining rust. A toothpick can help to pick the rust out of the pits.

If it were me, I wouldn't re-blue. I prefer the "worn" look of an imperfect finish with a bit of a patina, but to each their own. There ain't nothin' wrong with making your shotgun "good as new" ;)
 
My 1908 Remington Model 11 photos. I have more photos will post as time passes. This gun is a "hand me down" with TONS of memories

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Lt Col Jack Rat, you may want to try some VERY light steel wool to remove any remaining rust. A toothpick can help to pick the rust out of the pits.

If it were me, I wouldn't re-blue. I prefer the "worn" look of an imperfect finish with a bit of a patina, but to each their own. There ain't nothin' wrong with making your shotgun "good as new" ;)


Kroil will eat the remaining rust & you avoid the possibility of scratching the metal. :thumbup:
 
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