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2100 lbs Safe safe on my floor?

Discussion in 'Shooting Gear and Storage' started by grmnrkt, Dec 4, 2012.

  1. coolluke01

    coolluke01 New Member

    All that stuff in the joist space makes things difficult.

    If you will be using 2x4's I would recommend blocking between the studs. A 2x4 will bend easily and will loose all load bearing potential. Double studs on the ends with blocking all the way across will give you all the strength you need.

    3/4" plywood on the floors when moving the safe would help spread the weight out. Depending on the dolly being used, you could have all that weight on about 4 sq .This would be around 525 PSI! That's a lot of weight for a floor board spanning 14.5". Well actually since the floor boards are run at a diagonal the span is 20.5" 14.5 squared X 2 = 420.5 square root of 420.5 is 20.50. But I would think professional safe movers would take this into consideration.

    This is a very interesting problem, one I have never really thought about much before. I would be interested to hear if the movers had any interesting tricks.
  2. Teachu2

    Teachu2 New Member

    In the grand scheme of things, it would cost very little more to use 3 1/2" square .120 wall steel tubing for the corner posts of the closet - and have a much stronger support.
  3. coolluke01

    coolluke01 New Member

    ^^^ you would have to use a 2x8 or 2x10? header between the posts. A properly braced 2x4 wall will hold up many tons.
  4. anothernewb

    anothernewb Active Member

    As with what others have said, if you can swing it, make a closet or something under the safe location to share the load and buttress the floor.

    However - if keeping the finished space below is a necessity, then barring electrical or plumbing running underneath; if it were me doing it and needing the space in my house - I would take out the ceiling in that part of the basement and double up the joists with more 2x10's or laminates to share the load, and refinish the ceiling. drywall is cheap, and you'll retain your space. Of course - that is assuming the steel beam that you will be transferring the load to is near a support, and not in the middle of it's span. If the beam is in the middle of it's span - and again clear space is your need, I would consider reinforcing that beam as well.
  5. Trueno

    Trueno New Member


    Hmm, wonder if the safe will make it to its final resting place against the wall or will it fall through the floor on its way there?

    instant "sunken den" :neener:
  6. a1abdj

    a1abdj New Member

    If I was moving that safe through a house, I'd lay plywood under aluminum the entire route. If I was traveling along a steel beam, I wouldn't worry much beyond that, but if I had to go across an open span, I'd put in some temporary support in the basement beneath it.

    Regardless of what type of equipment is used to move the safe, the rollers will be small and hard. The vibration of that kind of weight will shake your house. Anything you can do to stiffen that ride will prevent your floor from looking like a trampoline and shaking all of your photos off the walls =).
  7. opsman

    opsman New Member

    I look at it like this, spend a little extra now, or risk some serious damage to your house which will without a doubt cost significantly more than putting in extra supports now. I recently put a safe in my house, before I purchased it, I asked a trusted contractor friend of mine, he recommended that I beef up the floor where the safe will sit. My safe does not weigh anything near what yours does, but at 1200 pounds empty, that amount of weight sitting in one spot for the rest of my life will certainly cause some type of sagging or damage. I put in the extra supports and do not regret it.
  8. grmnrkt

    grmnrkt New Member

    There are a couple of routes into my house, I videoed the shortest most direct route to the final resting place and mailed it to the safe mover. He was concerned about some tile and the two steps he had to come up to get it in that way, and then asked for the dimensions of the safe including the dial and handle since he's not a Graffunder dealer. He said he was going to ramp it over the steps w/ the tile. There is another way that may be more suitable to him. I'm trying to have the guy come out and look at the route so he can plan his attack. I saw his safe dolly when I was shopping at his store. It was aluminum with a ball screw for height adjustment for going up stairs. It was pretty slick. They advertise their guys are pros and will treat your house like its their own. I trust that or they wouldn't have been in business for so many years.
    If I don't see them rolling out some plywood and aluminum I'll make sure to remind them of the weight.

    I appreciate your input. I have probably read about every post on the internet concerning safes during my research on safes and your posts along with a few others industry guys have been very informative. Thank you.

    How often to you get people buying safes you can't move into their houses? you mentioned 1500lbs was your residential limit? Most house constructions are pretty similar compared by era. Is this industry standard or just your company policy?
  9. grmnrkt

    grmnrkt New Member

    Judging by your responses you sound like your in construction. I thought about a couple of your suggestions a little further and I looked at the space again and here's what i figured would be a workable solution.

    I'm going to take a couple 2x4 or 2x6s and screw them together on edge and place a jacking post in the middle of that beam. I can fit additional 2x10s in 2 of 3 spans so I'm going to double up those joists over my post and beam wall and frame the rest out with 2x4s and make a closet. Not what I wanted to do, but I know it will hold the load up w/o any issues. I'm not even going to remove the ceiling, I'm just going to score the plaster around the closet so if the floor does shift, it won't crack the ceiling in the basement.
  10. coolluke01

    coolluke01 New Member

    I am a Master Plumber and have been working in construction all my life. It's been nice to see how others do things and learn from them. I have remodeled three houses and 3 apartments, so I have a good deal of practical experience in this area.

    Not being able to see the place does make it hard. I was wondering how you could get the 2x10's in the ceiling without removing the sheetrock? It is necessary to to remove the sheetrock above the new beam. It will just crush the sheetrock and give you a 1/2" for the joists above to sag. This only needs to be done where the beam contacts the joists, not the side walls of the closet.

    2x6's are too small to support the joists and span a 5' closet door. Unless you are just having a 32" door. I know ceiling hight is an issue so this could be an issue and a reason why 2x8's or 2x10's won't work. This is assuming you will have the door running perpendicular with the joists. If your door can be on the wall that is parallel with the joists you won't have to worry about a beam under the joists and the 2x4 wall that is properly braced will support all your weight.
  11. Arp32

    Arp32 New Member

    Closet under the safe sounds like a good solution. I know it's more work to cut out the drywall over the closet, but I would put some 2x10 bridging between the joists to keep them from racking.
  12. AABEN

    AABEN New Member

    I added a room on my garage for a gun room to put my safe and reloading supply. That is my hideaway look the door turn on country music and turn off the phone!!!
  13. 45crittergitter

    45crittergitter New Member

    You didn't say how long the 10" joists are, but I think they will hold it. That being said, I won't recommend it, and would not under any circumstance place it over an occupied area without additional support.
  14. idoono

    idoono New Member

    Please let us know how this turns out. Inquiring minds want to know. Best of luckto ya!

  15. grmnrkt

    grmnrkt New Member

    It ships on Friday! Is it wrong to be excited for a heavy steel box?
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2012
  16. Trueno

    Trueno New Member

    hmm, a steal box, hopefully nobody will steel it.
  17. opsman

    opsman New Member

    No it is not wrong to be excited about a heavy steel box. I remember when mine arrived, I was like a kid at Christmas, finally all my research was over and the real deal was being installed.

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