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44 S/W mag cylinder opening...

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by quiknot, Nov 23, 2006.

  1. quiknot

    quiknot Well-Known Member

    i recently received a S/W 44 magnum model 29-2...used it over the weekend and now the cylinder will not open....the slide moves and it sounds like it clicks and the cylinder begins to open but does not...any suggestions on how to get open ( besides taking it to a gunsmith, which i may have to do anyway)....i did change grips and then put the old ones back on....and still not opening....not that i think they are related to the problem...

    any help would be greatly appreciated
  2. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus


    The ejector rod has unscrewed a little. Pull the hammer back a short distance to let the stop bolt drop, and hold the rod with your thumb while you turn the cylinder clockwise until it stops. The cylinder should swing out.

    Unscrew the rod and put some red Loc-Tite on the threads. The rod has left-hand threads, so it'll turn backward in order to tighten it. Grip the rod with pliers for the final snug, using a piece of leather or heavy denim to prevent marring it. Hold the rod tight and turn the cylinder to tighten. Remember...The rod turns counter-clockwise to tighten it, so the cylinder will have to turn clockwise.
  3. jaybar

    jaybar Well-Known Member

    Tighten the ejector rod

    Sounds like your ejector is coming unscrewed. Get a business card or similar material, slide it between the bottom of the cylinder and the frame such that you disengage the cylinder stop pushing it down back into the frame. Hold the ejector rod so it can't turn and turn the cylinder (which should now be free to move) counter-clockwise when viewed from the rear. Its a left hand thread on the -2's. When its tight the cylinder should open easily. When you get the cylinder open tighten the ejector rod thoroughly so it won't work its way loose again.

    Dang tuner you hit the submit button before I could. Can't disagree with your method, but I strongly disagree with using red loc-tite. Use the blue (242) or even the lighter grade purple (222) but not the red stuff, not on that fine thread. You run the risk of permanently locking your ejector rod to the ejector. Also Ishould add that before you put any kind of muscle to the final tightening put some empty shells in the chambers to avoid damaging the two little alignment pins. The empty shells will take all the torque.
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2006
  4. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus


    You're right, jaybar. Blue is better. You can get the red to turn loose, but the blue is a bit less stubborn. Good tip on the card to hold the stop bolt.
    I usually just hold the hammer against my leg until I can turn the cylinder a half-turn or so until it screws the rod back in.

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