1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

67-1 cylinder gap

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by BLiTzNicK, Jan 8, 2003.

  1. BLiTzNicK

    BLiTzNicK Well-Known Member

    What are the specs for the cylinder gap on a S&W 67-1? I recently acquired one, and it has virtually no gap. I can see light through it, but I have to look real hard. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, so I don't know if it binds after a few rounds or not. I can tell you that the cylinder doesn't rub the cone at all, but it's dang close. The smallest gauge I have is .010, so I can't measure it.

    What should it be? OR How tight CAN it be?
  2. Robert inOregon

    Robert inOregon Well-Known Member

    Anything under .008 is inside the specification. Can get away with .010 and anything over should be fixed. Properly.
  3. BLiTzNicK

    BLiTzNicK Well-Known Member

    So as long as the cylinder isn't rubbing the cone, it's fine? I'm dying to try this thing out, but who knows when I'll make it.
  4. Mike Irwin

    Mike Irwin Well-Known Member

    Optimal is, I believe, around .05 to .08. Any tighter and you're going to have problems with crud buildup interfering with cylinder rotation.

    Much looser and it's going to start spitting.
  5. bountyhunter

    bountyhunter member

    About .004 to .006 is what you want on a new gun, but anything between about .003 and .008 is probably OK. Service limit is about .010". Get a set of auto feeler gauges to measure it.
  6. charleym3

    charleym3 Well-Known Member

    .006 + - .003 or
    .003 - .009
    That's measured on a clean revolver. If there's a bunch of build up on the cylinder or on the barrel, clean it first, then measure.
  7. BLiTzNicK

    BLiTzNicK Well-Known Member

    Well, my smallest feeler gauge is .010", so I can't measure it right now. The .010" won't come close to fitting between the cylinder and cone. I had a hard time putting a piece of Post-It note between the two. I guess I'll try to find a smaller set of gauges. I'll try to shoot it tommorow to see if it has any binding problems. What could happen if the cylinder to cone gap is too tight, just binding? I mean, it won't blow up or anything will it?

    This gun was manufactured in July of 87'. It's a little old, but is in great shape.

    Attached Files:

  8. JPM70535

    JPM70535 Well-Known Member

    When the cylinder gap gets below .003 you are most likely to start having cylinder rub due to lead and crud buildup. I learned this the hard way with a S&W mod. 60. After 40 rounds, the cylinder would barely turn. measured gap was .001. After thorough cleaning the forceing cone and cylinder face with lead remover cloth and brass brush, gap was .005

    BTW the cylinder face did not appear to be leaded up based on visual inspection but it was there.
  9. BLiTzNicK

    BLiTzNicK Well-Known Member

    The gap is not tight enough to cause a problem. I took it out today and shot 65 rounds through it and it never had any problems.
  10. BLiTzNicK

    BLiTzNicK Well-Known Member

    My main point of concern was the near lack of any gap. I have never owned, or seen a revolver with this tight of a gap. I admit, there were no problems in the 65 rounds I got to put through it, though.

    This gun was like shooting a cap gun, which is good since I bought it to teach my wife on. I figure with some rubber grips, it should really be easy on the hands. Anyone use the Hogue Monogrip? I'm probably gonna pick up a set tomorrow for when the wife goes shooting.

Share This Page