1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Adjusting press fit rear sites.

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Old School, Jul 20, 2008.

  1. Old School

    Old School Well-Known Member

    My PX4 shoots 2.5 to 3 inches to the right at 15 yards. Anybody know how many thousandths to move the rear site to the right to correct that amount?
    There is 5 7/8" between the front and rear site.
  2. Old School

    Old School Well-Known Member

    Well, I went about .010". We'll see next trip to the range.
  3. wally

    wally Well-Known Member

    I usually bring a small hammer brass punch to the range with me so I can adjust, shoot, adjust again if necessary until I get it right. Then a drop of "wicking grade" (290) after a good cleaning and degreasing of the sight dovetail area to make sure it stays put.

  4. shooter1

    shooter1 Well-Known Member

    Yep, like Wally I adjust mine at the range. There is a formula for calculating that, I'd have to look it up tho, it's been a while.
    Easy enough to find. Here it is: http://www.flat5.net/sightdrift.html
  5. wally

    wally Well-Known Member

    I only bother with the formula if I need to file the front or rear to adjust elevation, and then I work up to it at the range even more carefully. Fortunately its rare that I can't live with either the "combat" cover the target with the front sight (shoots low for bullseye) or the six o'clock hold (shoots high for "combat") sight pictures.

  6. Old School

    Old School Well-Known Member

    I suppose I could just bring the hammer and copper puch with me. I just hate working in that environment. It is so much easier to set it up in the shop. I can maker sure it is properly supported and that I won't bend or damage the decocker levers or the guns finish. Beretta could have easily made the PX4 rear site easily adjustable with a set screw like the Ruger P345.

    That formula says .0326. That seems like a lot.
  7. Rinspeed

    Rinspeed Well-Known Member

    I'm not sure how far you need to drift it but this thread reminds me of the time I tried to remove the rear sight on my Kimber. I guess they install them with a 20 ton press and it would not budge no matter how hard I hit it.
  8. shooter1

    shooter1 Well-Known Member

    Those Kimber rear sights are a bear!! The trick is to secure the slide against a good solid , padded surface, use as large a punch as you can, a 3# hammer, and hit it like you mean it!!! From right to left of course. First thing I do on series ll kimbers is remove the swartz firing
    pin safety. Sometimes when I shoot from awkward positions, my grip allows the hammer to fall, but the firing pin safety blocks the firing pin. It could have gotten my bacon fried on a couple of occasions. Don't have to worry about that problem anymore!
  9. 1SOW

    1SOW Well-Known Member

    Borrow or rent a sight pusher-some ranges have them. Take it to the range and tweak it.
  10. JDGray

    JDGray Well-Known Member

    Just removed my plunger and spring yesterday on my UCII. After heating the set screw to unlocktite it, the sight drifted very hard. Bonus is the grip safety pushes alot easier without the second stage feel, and no more worries:)
  11. Old School

    Old School Well-Known Member

    1SOW says:
    That would definately be ideal. Unfortunately, I have yet to find one of these local ranges that has them around here. I would buy one if there was a universal model. However, I have not seen one of those yet. Anybody know of a universal rear site vice/adjuster?
  12. shooter1

    shooter1 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, that's what I'm talking about!!! If you want to make the pistol "drop safe" just install a titanium firing pin and a +power firing pin spring. Don't know why Kimber doesn't do it that way.

Share This Page