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All In One Gun Cleaners/Lube

Discussion in 'Handguns: General Discussion' started by Fish828, Jan 19, 2008.

  1. Fish828

    Fish828 Well-Known Member

    Recently, I was looking around for a new cleaning kit for my gun and I found that most kits now contain what they call an all-in-one solution that is supposed to both clean and lubricant the gun. My old kits that I have had have both the cleaning solvent and lubricant, each to be applied separately. I know that you can apply something after the all-in-one cleaner like Rem Oil. I was wondering everyone's thoughts on this changeover. I personally like cleaning my gun with a solvent separately and then applying the lubricant. For some reason, it just feels more thorough and satisfying to me.
  2. boalex207

    boalex207 Well-Known Member

    Break Free

    cleans and lubricates. One stop shopping :D
  3. nosliw

    nosliw Well-Known Member

    i'm a huge fan of break free CLP

    rust inhibitor
  4. hondapro

    hondapro Member

    Try some weapon shield you can find it here http://www.steelshieldtech.com/ I have been using it and am pleased with it.I use hoppes solvent to clean and then I lube with weapon shield.IMHO rem oil is not a good lubricant,it may be a good rust preventive but is not a good lubricant.
  5. skinewmexico

    skinewmexico Well-Known Member

    Ick. Jack of all trades, master of none. The military decision to go to CLP was for simplicity in the quartermasters department, not because it outperformed individual items.

    I bet your wife doesn't even use an all-in-one cleaner around your house for everything.
  6. gunman42782

    gunman42782 Well-Known Member

    I have never been a fan of supposed all in one cleaners. I use Hoppe's #9 to get powder fouling out, and when it looks pretty clean I start with a good copper cleaner. I use one from Pro-Shot Products, and it works good. When it finally comes out clean, then I use Kroil or CLP.
  7. thebaldguy

    thebaldguy Well-Known Member

    I think all in one clp works; I don't think it works as well as using solvent and a lube/protectant.
  8. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Well-Known Member

    CLP Breakfree and the other "cleaner-lubes" have little to no effect on copper fouling in the bore.

    While you "can" use one product to clean and lube a weapon, the "C" part of CLP Breakfree is actually misunderstood.
    What it actually does is prevent fouling in the action from hardening and slowing operation.
    The CLP keeps the fouling soft and the action "sweeps" it out of the way, allowing the weapon to continue to function.

    You're better off using a real bore solvent for bores and for cleaning other parts.
    I think you should use a solvent to clean and a lubricant to lubricate.
    It's near impossible to get one that does both really well.
    Most of them do a good job of lubricating and only a so-so job of cleaning.
  9. mainebear

    mainebear Well-Known Member

    Using a good bore/action cleaner then CLP works well for me.
  10. tyesai

    tyesai Well-Known Member

    My wife uses bleach, I use CLP.

    Your theory is debunked.
  11. Mad Magyar

    Mad Magyar Well-Known Member

    +1 on that.....
  12. Hoppe's elite field cleaner, M-Pro7, FP-10, Slice2000

    You may want to consider the Hoppes brand elite field cleaner. The website/ads state the use this CLP on USAF fighter jets and military weapons, ;). The M-Pro7 looks good too. It works as a CLP and is availble by web/mail order. I used FP-10 for a few years. It's OK but not great as a CLP. The Slip2000 line sells firearm cleaning agents. This is highly rated but all natural. I've never used Slice2000 products but if you are interested it's worth a look.

    Here are some good sources;
    www.hoppes.com www.natchezss.com www.slip2000.com www.cheaperthandirt.com www.brownells.com .

    Take care of your weapons and they will take care of you, :D.

    Rusty S

    1BLINDREF Well-Known Member

    I use CLP and then lube.
  14. BobbyQuickdraw

    BobbyQuickdraw Well-Known Member

    I'm not all that experienced in gun cleaning and all I've personally known is All-In-Ones.
  15. mpmarty

    mpmarty Well-Known Member

    Hoppes #9 for powder fouling first. The Sweets 7.62 or Butches bore shine for the copper and when the bore is completely clean either mil tec grease or oil depending on anticipated storage duration. Exterior is wiped down with #9 and then treated with the corresponding mil tec oil or grease. I feel the rem oil and ezox are too thin to provide the level of protection needed CLP is not a good cleaner and because it has some mild cleaning properties is not as good a preservative as those without the cleaners. It's like car polish use a good cleaner and then pure carnauba wax.
  16. DawgFvr

    DawgFvr Well-Known Member

    They all work just fine. I used shaving cream, WD-40 and CLP on M16 for a couple of decades...never had a problem.
  17. Average Joe

    Average Joe Well-Known Member

    Been using CLP for years.
  18. Rinspeed

    Rinspeed Well-Known Member

    I used CLP for years but switched to FP-10 not to long ago.
  19. OldCowHand

    OldCowHand Well-Known Member

    I've recently been introduced to Gunzilla (http://topduckproducts.com/), and like it: cleans and lubes well, but leaves surfaces dry rather than sticky-greasy and dirt-trapping like oil-based products. I'm also somewhat chemically sensitive, and although I love the smell of Hoppe's #9 (great associations with hunting trips through the years), these days I can handle prolonged exposure only in a well-ventilated area. Gunzilla is plant-based, no petroleum products (and no water, either -- in fact, it displaces water nicely), and I can handle it indoors in winter without having to open doors and windows.
  20. loop

    loop Well-Known Member

    I use Windex on the bore followed by CLP. Learned the Windex trick on milsurps with corrosive primers. Ammonia neutralizes fulminate of mercury in old primers. It also is hell on lead and powder residue. It must be completely dried within about five minutes because ammonia can etch steel. Also wipe down outside with Windex and follow it up with CLP.
    Use Tetra grease on metal-to-metal contact parts as final lube. Wouldn't recommend grease where it gets below freezing, but it rarely does that where I live.
    Also rub Tetra grease into exposed metal surfaces with porous finishes like phosphate and powder coats. It stays, penetrates and protects quite well.
    Biggest problem with Windex is the wife knows its in my cleaning kit and if she needs Windex she raids my kit...

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