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another 1911 fact or fallacy question

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by MIgunguy, Dec 6, 2008.

  1. MIgunguy

    MIgunguy Well-Known Member

    If the slide is locked back, regardless of whether you're closing the slide full speed with a new loaded magazine or easing it forward on an empty chamber (like after cleaning), is it better (for the internal parts) to pull the tigger then let the slide go forward? I heard this was the way the 1911 was designed, and was important for the sear / hammer engagement (reduce wear and tear), but only really important on a tuned match grade gun. I was never comfortable doing that, given the safety rules we all should live by (never pull tirgger unless on a target you intend to kill, so to say). Any thoughts?
  2. mavracer

    mavracer Well-Known Member

    mostly fact and more so with a tuned trigger.although you would have to do it a lot to cause any problem and the usual problems are either the trigger pull will get worse or the hammer will follow the slide.
  3. Beagle-zebub

    Beagle-zebub Well-Known Member

    Alright, this is another level of the 1911 closing-the-slide-on-an-empty-chamber than I've heard. Could somebody explain the whole thing from the beginning? The series appeals to me, and I don't want to screw something up when I get one.

    I shudder to think of what rental guns are subjected to, with regard to this matter.
  4. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Used to be SOP for NRA Bullseye wadcutter guns.

    Beating a sear & hammer by slamming a slide shut on an empty chamber without holding the trigger back would get you slapped up side the head with a file by the AMU gunsmiths.

    But it's much better not to slam the slide shut on an empty chamber in the first place!

    When you load the gun normally, slide velocity is much less because of friction from the round coming out of the magazine slowing it down.

    When you shoot it, the disconnector is disconnected, so trigger bounce isn't impacting on the sear at all.

    Not true.
    It was designed as a military handgun, with a 5 - 6 pound trigger pull, and hammer hook engagement you could use on a bumper jack.
    No military weapon ever required anyone to pull the trigger to load it without breaking it!

    Sear & hammer damage only became an issue when folks started putting 2 1/2 - 3 pound triggers on match guns.

    Last edited: Dec 6, 2008
  5. Loomis

    Loomis member

    You think people here know what the hook on a bumper jack looks like? when's the last time a car came with a steel bumper, much less a bumper jack?

    rc, are you one of those dinosaurs that still sharpens his own ripsaw? Do you like to adjust the tooth offset too?
  6. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    AH shucks!
    Ya got me!


  7. Loomis

    Loomis member

    Circular saws are a marvelous invention. They're even electric!

    BTW, I still got a few of those two-prong outlets in my house. And I'm not talking about the ones that will work with one of those adaptor thingies. I got some that have two SMALL slots. i gotta trim the big prong down on the plug or it won't fit in my wall! And I've still got some uninsulated wires in my house...strung from insulator to insulator...kinda like the old telegraph wires were.
  8. Eightball

    Eightball Well-Known Member

    Mine's got a steel bumper--1996 Jeep Cherokee :neener:

    What about the "trigger pulling" thing on, say, a 1911 with a Series 80 or Schwarzer system? I've never really heard of the OP's question.

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