1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Appropriate torque setting 700 BDL

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by MLC, May 13, 2003.

  1. MLC

    MLC Well-Known Member

    I'm having fits getting my 6mm to shoot well. I realized that it hasn't really shot that well since I had the barrel free floated. The smith that did it apparently flew the coop from the local shop. How tight should the bedding screw be?
  2. 4v50 Gary

    4v50 Gary Moderator Staff Member

    45 lbs.
  3. 4v50 Gary

    4v50 Gary Moderator Staff Member

    Received an inquiry from a member questioning my assertion of 45 lbs. That's what I recall from armorer's school but I'll check my notes later.

    Said member pointed out that he thinks it's 65 lbs. 65 lbs is the used by the USMC and, I believe, the Army for the M40A3 and M24 respectively (both Rem 700 based actions). One distinction should be made between either of these two mil-spec weapons and the PSS/VSS that we have: aluminium trigger guards. Our aluminium guards probably can't be torqued down to 65 lbs repeatedly as they'll probably fracture in due course of time.

    But then again, my hair is grey (but better grey than none) and so I tend to forget things (that's why I carry a driver's license - so I know who I am). ;)
  4. Ledbetter

    Ledbetter Well-Known Member

    Another difference is that the military rifles have composite stocks with built in bedding block/rails.
  5. MLC

    MLC Well-Known Member

    The rifle is a 70's era Remington 700V in 6mm Rem with the standard wood stock.
  6. HankL

    HankL Well-Known Member

    Gary, I'm sorry for the confusion. When I saw 45 lbs. my mind said FOOT POUNDS I just was hoping that someone here would make sure everyone reading this knew that INCH POUNDS are what we are talking about. More than a few of us gun tweakers are old motor heads. Also I'm one of those guys who don't know what color their hair is anymore.

    MLC, We might have a can of worms opened here. You say your barrel was free floated. Was the action hard bedded to the stock at the same time or did this missing Smith just hog out the barrel channel enough to float the barrel? In either case a shim under the barrel near the forearm may help. The front screw should be around as tight as you can get it with a good screwdriver.
    I really hated to say that because I know some folks who most likely could snap the head off a screw with a screwdriver.
    The rear screw should be snugged up firmly.

    We may need to get Art to sort this one out.
  7. MLC

    MLC Well-Known Member

    Thanks for all the input fellows.
    Yesterday I was (over)tightening down a retaining nut on a machine and it suddenly went loose. Imagine my surprise when the nut lifted off the shaft and the threads were wrapped around the shaft like a retarded slinky.
  8. Art Eatman

    Art Eatman Administrator Staff Member

    Might get more action in "Rifle Country", but my memory has it that the Remington is to be torqued to 60 inch-pounds. That's five foot-pounds, which ain't really very much.

    Whether a standard slot-head screw or an Allen-type, the deal is to tighten down smoothly and firmly until serious resistance is felt. After that, no more than ten or fifteen degrees of turn should be sufficent, even if it's not right on the numbers. But, once you're close to spec, very little turn is needed to go beyond it.

    The specific torque is not quite as important (give or take, say, 5 inch-pounds) as is consistency for each disassembly/reassembly. Equal torque for the front and rear screws, as well...

    You can replace slot-head screws with Allen-head if you wish. There's no law against it. Then you can make up an Allen wrench with a 12" handle. Either hang a five-pound weight or bag of sugar on it--or pull with a spring scale. (Another of my cheapskate precision processes. :D )


Share This Page