AR-15 kits

[bender]

ok, I just checked LoneStar Wholesale. their price on a Bushie stripped lower was $175.

So it looks like my dealer's price of $185 is a fair deal.

I think I'm gonna order one from my dealer. Before some new AWB comes along.

 

[Monkeybear]

Wow, thats expensive for a stripped lower. My LMT only cost 134. Got mine from these guys http://www.talonarms.com/talonarms/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=469

 

[USMC_2674]

Pick up a Stag or RRA lower for $100-110.

Just as good as Bushmaster without the recent QC problems.

 

[bender]

the dealer admitted that Bushmaster lowers were more than other companies, but he was of the opinion that it was justified...

However, based on what members here think, I suppose I will get a Stag lower. One of the member dealers here said he could sell me one for $110.

 

[yayarx7]

OK.

I try to buy all my lowers from Robbie at Lonestar Wholesale. I have in the past purchased Stag and RRA, both high quality lowers, from him at about the $100 mark. He also had Doublestar which are comparable quality. I bought a DPMS lower from Cheaper Than Dirt for too much and was disappointed in the finish hardness, it scratched when I looked crossly at it.

I buy all my kits from DOC at M&A parts. I built two rifles for myself and I have built three more for friends, including M4, GUU 5/p, varmit and A2 type builds, all from M&A kits. I recommend them highly.

Go to a funshow and buy the lower from Robbie.
Call Doc and have your kit within a couple of days.
Build the gun using the guide from ARFCOM.
BA/UU/R

Easy

If you need anything LMK and I will try to help out.

 

[yayarx7]

Gratuitous Gun Porn follows.

 

[bender]

what kind of scope is that?

edit: since I'm getting a complete rifle kit (del-ton) and a stripped lower, what's a good book or manual to use to assemble the lower? or will the del-ton kit com with lower assembly instructions?

 

[lycanthrope]

No need to buy a book. Just print this out:

http://ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/

 

[bender]

ok, I printed out those instructions. Regarding the tools needed, I'm gonna try to get what I need from Midway... since I get all my stuff from them.

"Roll pin holders"... is this the right item?

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=694883

and the hammer, it doesn't say what size or type. I assume a brass hammer. what weight? Is this one OK? it has brass, steel, and a nylon head:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=725342

thanks!

 

[lycanthrope]

OK, the tools are OK, but I would really recommend getting the tools from Model 1 sales.

http://www.model1sales.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=TOB007&storeid=1&image=tools.gif&CFID=9642850&CFTOKEN=46222725

The reason is that they sell the pivot pin installation tool which is worth it's weight in gold unless you have three hands. Roll pin punches are best, but you can actually do it with regular punches.

A brass hammer is nice, and I recommend one with a small/thin head. Some pins have to be installed alongside the receiver and with large head you can easily scrape your finish. I always put some electrical tape in the receiver before I install pins just for this reason.

 

[lycanthrope]

OK...Midway has the Model 1 tool. Just add it to your list and go through them if you wish.

 

[bender]

I added these 2 items to my Midway order, based on lycanthrope's recommendation:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=154074

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=920248

and, for after I'm done:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=852845

 

[Beren]

You don't need a pivot pin install tool.

Look closely at the buffer spring retainer pin. You'll notice it fits quite nicely in the pivot pin hole. That's your install tool. Insert spring, then the detent. Use the buffer spring retainer pin to "capture" the pivot detent. Now slide in your pivot pin, using it to push the buffer spring retainer pin out the other side.

I do recommend safety goggles, just in case, of course.

A small hammer with both nylon and brass heads is helpful. Brownells sells a nice one.

I believe I used a spare firing pin as a roll pin punch, but I don't really recommend doing so.

The tip about electrical tape is a good one. Especially if you're working on someone else's lower.

The Stag stripped lower I assembled with a CMT parts kit has the nicest trigger I've felt with an AR-15, and it's single stage. Your results may vary.

Good luck with your adventure, and welcome to Black Rifle Disease!

 

[RobZ71LM7]

My J&T kit came with junk lower parts-many were out of spec. Any forged lower is honestly fine-just avoid hesse & the like. AIM has superior arms and stag arms lowers both under $100. I've used J&T, Model 1, RRA and Stag Arms for uppers.

I'd rank them:

1) Stag and RRA tied

2) Model 1

3) J&T

If it weren't for the junk lower parts I'd got I'd tie J&T and Model 1. I'd like to hate the Model 1 as cheap as it is, but it's been a solid performer with any ammo or mags I've used.

 

[dukalmighty]

scoping ar15

I have an ar15 a3 flat top with a standard A2 front sight post,even though I mounted a scope to the picatinny rail the front sight post does not show up in the optics it's so close to the scope I don't even see the front sight when i'm looking through the scope.

 

[lycanthrope]

If it weren't for the junk lower parts I'd got I'd tie J&T and Model 1. I'd like to hate the Model 1 as cheap as it is, but it's been a solid performer with any ammo or mags I've used.

That's my experience as well.