Attention Soldering Experts w/ .22LR, Or, How Can We Make a Rimfire Snap Cap?

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It's only a .22 ! You can shoot all day for a few bucks !:rolleyes:

This thread is a waste of bandwidth..................

Just shoot the damn thing for crissakes !:banghead:
 
+1 Jerkface.

24 of 'em for $6.99 plus shipping
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=521044&t=11082005

I love to make stuff on my own, but there's a point where I realize it's just better to buy from the pros who have done all the research and whatnot for me. Time is money, and I'm not sure that hours of tinkering would be worth it when the guaranteed product (I trust Pachmayr!) is so cheap. If you can make a better snap cap, go for it (and patent it while you're at it), but I think this is one of the times where it's not necessary unless you just want the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
 
Couple thoughts.

1. It seems to me that steel snap caps (as someone suggested) would defeat the purpose to a large degree and could break your pin. If we wanted to hit the pin on steel, we could just dry fire onto the steel chamber edge. But better than nothing I suppose.

2. Critgit, what size are those, and description of item, so we know what to buy as a separate, temporary measure?

3. Centerfire caps use a spring that rebounds, so following the same principle, I'd think you'd want a springy material - is there any way to inject a "foam-rubbery" material into the rim area? Perhaps a steel cap COULD come in handy if it gives a bit due to a foam rubbery or just rubbery type material in the rim, with a split in the rim all the way around which allows it to sink in and be absorbed by the foam rubbery material?

4. As for the polymer snap caps, they are worthless because they tear up and are trash even well BEFORE a spent brass casing would be, so why not just use spent casings instead of spending money? No, I think the question asked is a relevant one..

That's all I have at present. :)
 
I might try a plastic rod in a fired case. shape and polish to mimic a real round, this would cycle ok.
The deformed rim you just have to live with. It would protect the breach from damage from the firing pin.
I can't think of anything that would hang together in the thin rim that would resist deforming and not risk imparting any damage to the barrel. The brass case would alway deform where the firing pin hit.
 
KK you're a good sport !

What, is the mosquito the ONLY gun you own ?:D

I practice dry firing with something that might actually HELP,

like my 1911 ! .....:neener:

After all, it is called a MOSQUITO!!!!!!!!!:p

If ya got a full size SIG I'll shutup !
 
Well at least I got a realistic gun to learn and train with! Once I am competent with the Mosquito I will get serious about picking out something centerfire.
 
I suggest a brass or aluminum case body, complete with bullet shape. Cut threads in the body from the backside (8-32). Machine rim (half-thickness) and threads from an 8-32 bolt. Preferably a nice, hard, grade 8 bolt. JB weld a little circle of rubber to it, only in the middle. (you can buy sheets of this in varying thicknesses from car part stores)

Problem solved.

(Sorry for the crappy, not to scale drawing, I only have MSPaint at work..)
 

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Touche' Knife Knut !

I'm just razzin' ya ! :evil:

I knew the reference to 1911's would stir some poo !

Actually I shoot an XD-9 SC for CCW. I need to get some 9mm snap caps too. I have looked at both the Mosquito and the P-22 and am still undecided but leaning towards the skeeter. I would say a good choice for a trainer pistol, then go for the full size pistol after getting "aquainted" with its smaller cousin.

I read your range report and wish I was as thorough !:)
 
I think Nick has the best idea. You simply can't use a case because it will deform. You need a material that will deform (to cushion the pin), but only temporarially.
 
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