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Bad Load/Combination

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Mike 27, Jan 30, 2010.

  1. Mike 27

    Mike 27 Well-Known Member

    I am new to reloading, but think I have done a considerable amount of homework. I first off have a Taurus 605 .357 Mag that I enjoy firing .38 Spec out of. My first batch was with a 110gr bullet with 7 gr of HS 6 and had a stuck bullet. I thought that this was strictly an error on my part but did not like the load, mind you my gun only has a 2 1/2 in bbl and most load data is for 4". I went out today with the same bullet and Bullseye and AA 2 and had no issue what so ever and loved the load, but after I had my issue I had pulled the HS 6 rounds apart and checked averything again and went up to 7.2 gr. Well long story short I tryed one more of these rounds and again a stuck bullet. On my first iteration I fired about 20 rounds of this and didnt like it due to the light kick, but today it was the 1 and only round I put down the pipe.
    I guess my point is that I have found no info on incidents such as this in my manuals or online for snub nose pistols, and this scared the crap out of me. Like I said I follow directions to the T and check ussually 3 sources for the " recipe" and wiegh my charges on 2 scales. When done I also wiegh the completed product to check one more time. I thought some how I missed a powder charge on the first attempt, but after today I know that this is not the case, although there will be those that say that is what it is. I just wanted to share this learning experience and possibly see if there are any ideas other than the slow burning powder, (my mistake) and in-experience. Are there additional resources out there for things such as this? Or "bad recipes" for certain weapons?
  2. bds

    bds Well-Known Member

    Mike, welcome to the wonderful world of reloading. :confused:

    To get good burn and pressure performance out of short barrels, you need faster burning powder like Bullseye and I would not recommend HS6.

    HS6 is a slower burning powder for pistol and I use it on 4"-5" semi-auto with good results.
  3. billybob44

    billybob44 Well-Known Member

    bds is correct. For short barrel/target loads, powders like Bullseye, HP-38/WW-231,Unique, AA-#2+#5, are the proper burn rates. Save your Hod. HS-6 for your higher speed 9mm/.357 jacketed heavy bullet loads. I saw that 7.0gr. was the starting load weight in the Hodgdon load data, up to 7.8gr. max load. The OAL for Hornady 110 XTP called for 1.455" Be sure on any slow burn/high volume powder charge, that you have a FIRM roll crimp, on your revolver loads/ good taper crimp, on the semi-auto loads. On that 7.0gr charge of HS-6, it would not hurt, if you used Small Mag. primers to light it off. Should not really need the Mag, but it would not hurt at all, due to the charge at the Min. point of specs.;):):D
  4. Sunray

    Sunray Well-Known Member

    7 grains of HS 6 is the start load for a 110. The barrel length shouldn't matter. Mind you, a 110 is kind of light.
  5. James2

    James2 Well-Known Member

    I agree. Unique or Titegroup has worked well for me.
  6. 243winxb

    243winxb Well-Known Member

    What was the bullet used? Make, jacketed, plated, or lead ? Alaska, how cold was it? What primer was used? More load data please.
  7. Mike 27

    Mike 27 Well-Known Member

    It was a jacketed HP and yeah the problem is Alaska for getting stuff so the 110's where all I could find when i picked them up. I have a box of Berrys 125 FP using AA2 and I am thrilled with that load. They shot very well. I also loaded some Bullseye with the 110 Sierra's and that worked very well. I have not seen any of the burn rate and recommendations for the loads for the compact guns anywhere in the manuals, and was wondering if I had overlooked it. I may try the HS6 in my 9MM with the 4" but it does very will with the AA2 as well. Guess I am a little gun shy of the HS6 at this point. I may pickup some of the Mag primers as that seems to be the only thing readily available here, have to luck out with the other stuff. And as for the weather it has been a warm 0 to -10 for the past few days so I could go out a shoot for a bit and not freeze too bad.
  8. Steve C

    Steve C Well-Known Member

    Stuck bullet usually means no powder.

    Assuming the bullet was crimped and the primers where good. There's absolutely no reason for the bullet to be left in the barrel with that load other than the powder didn't burn because it was contaminated or the load isn't what you say it is due to a reloading error and not as much powder being used. If the powder didn't ignite then you'd see it behind the bullet and falling out of your gun.
  9. 243winxb

    243winxb Well-Known Member

    After using H450 (discontinued) & H380, i try not to use Ball Powders- The spheres are then coated with deterrents and flattened with rollers. Finally, an additional coating with graphite and flash suppressants is applied, and the batch is mixed to ensure homogeneity. http://www.fbi.gov/hq/lab/fsc/backissu/april2002/mccord.htm
  10. Mike 27

    Mike 27 Well-Known Member

    The powder is new and was sealed when I bought it. It has been stored at 68-72 degrees and there is no humidity here this time of year. I checked these loads on 2 scales and wieghed every bullet. The 20 that did fire did not fire well "very low recoil" and I didn't like that. I checked the barrel for obstruction several times due to the low recoil. The gun is in good condition as well, very few .357 mags have been through it and only a few hundered .38's. I absolutly loved the AA 2 and Bullseye loads that I put through it yesterday with the fast burn. A definate recoil, and no worries about stuck bullets. I wanted to share this experience so it could possibly help others. I knew there would be those that said it was a mistake (missed charge ect...) but see the first post I promise you I did not miss a charge on the second round and 99% sure I didn't on the first. I will be using the fast burn powder on the loads for the snubby from now on and I think that was the key. Just looking to share this maybe it will help someone not repeat this.
  11. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    It never hurts to check the barrel/cylinder gap on a revolver with an automotive feeler guage.

    More then .008" - .010" gap and you can lose so much pressure out of the gap with slow burning powder a stuck jacketed bullet is a possibility.

  12. Seedtick

    Seedtick Well-Known Member

    Mike, I've just started loading for .357 and was surprised to find that Lyman 49th calls for a MAG primer for every load. While I do believe some (ball - HS6) powders/loads may benefit from the use of magnum primers I don't think they all need them. But then again, I'm a new student of the .357.

    And another item that you have to consider that I don't is that if it is ever that cold here I will not be outside period much less shooting. :eek: BURRRR!

    Stay warm my friend.


    Last edited: Jan 31, 2010
  13. Mike 27

    Mike 27 Well-Known Member

    I thought that may have something to do with it as well, maybe taking the bullets from 70 deg to -10 made them sweat inside. I am going to stick to the fast burn powder it works very well in that gun. The cold does effect the auto's a bit but usually the revolver does very well. My PT 92 doesn't like the cold but does ok. I have a Berretta U22 plincker that does well but miss feeds on occasion after it gets cold soaked. The fast burn is much cleaner as well I ran about 50 rounds and it wasn't a bad clean up.
  14. zxcvbob

    zxcvbob Well-Known Member

    Does your gun have a strong enough hammer spring to fire a rifle primer? Might be worth a try. HS-6 should be fine for a short barrel, although Bullseye, 231, or Titegroup would be more efficient.
  15. Remo-99

    Remo-99 Well-Known Member

    If I was designing a round that would have a high failure rate, I think I would go with a starting load of a slow ball powder without a mag primer, a light weight bullet, fired in a revolver in extreme cold.
    But I think you already beat me to the punch. ;)
  16. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    No, condensation doesn't work that way.

    No condensation occurs when a warm object is taken to a cold location.

    Condensation occurs when a cold object is taken to a warm location.

    Besides, the condensation occurs on the outside of the object, not on the inside where moisture from the air is sealed out.


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