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Best/Affordable user-serviceable 5.56 or 7.62 can?

Discussion in 'NFA Firearms and Accessories' started by MenaceMan47, Jan 2, 2013.

  1. MenaceMan47

    MenaceMan47 Well-Known Member

    My next NFA project will be to add a suppressor to my collection, and I would like something user-serviceable. My first intention was to get a 5.56 can, but a 7.62 can would be nice, too. I don't need anything in titanium, so carbon/stainless steel would be preferred. Any ideas?
  2. Charles S

    Charles S Well-Known Member

  3. hentown

    hentown Well-Known Member

    Check out the Huntertown Kestrel 5.56. It's under $500. My first suppressor will be their Guardian 9, which works for 9mm and subsonic .300 Blackout. It's only $325 at Adco.
  4. Swampman

    Swampman Old Fart

    Is there a particular reason that you need a user serviceable HP rifle can?
    Unless you intend to shoot a lot of .22 rimfire or cast bullets through the can, you'll never need to clean it. A little carbon in the can won't hurt anything and may actually help with suppression.

    Making a high power rifle can user serviceable decreases its strength and increases the chances for a baffle strike or catastrophic failure, welds are far stronger than threads.
  5. Charles S

    Charles S Well-Known Member

    How exactly does that happen?

    Are you absolutely certain about that? Is that an absolute statement? uninterrupted machined threads of what length?

    My can is not welded and is only threaded at the end cap. My can is user serviceable, rated for full auto fire, and is rated for subsonic ammo.

    My question to you is: What do you do if you don't have a user serviceable can, what do you you do if you get a baffle or end cap strike? Do you end up with a pile of trash with a $200 tax stamp?

    With my can I send the baffle of end cap end and get another. What do you do?
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2013
  6. Swampman

    Swampman Old Fart

    When the threads come loose, things can get out of alignment, this can lead to baffle strikes, if you need graphics to understand, you can simply loosen up the threads on your can a bit and do some field research. I'm sure that will illustrate the problem so that it's easily understood.

    Can you please provide me with a list of cans that AREN'T rated for subsonic ammo?
    Any manufacturer (or owner) that makes a claim like that is really grasping at straws.

    Uhhmm... I thought it was understood by everyone here that we're talking about suppressors. Small, fairly thin tubes of metal where strength is good and weight is bad. Sort of like the tube frame of a race car, ever see one of those threaded or bolted together? How about the suppressors used by the US military, how many of those are simply screwed together?

    In the event that I ever have a problem, I suppose that I'll ship it back to the manufacturer, if the tube (with the serial number) is OK, they would then fix it and ship it back to me. This is pretty much what I'd do with any quality consumer item. Do you do your own repairs if a night vision device or laser module goes out?

    I'm sure that you do...

    I just keep shooting since I haven't had any of the problems that you've apparently had.
    To each his own...

    Seriously, while it's great that you're happy with your can, trying to claim that a threaded, take apart, high power rifle suppressor is as strong or stronger than a welded can of equal weight and quality just shows that you really haven't done much study in the field.

    Aside from repairing the damage caused by all the baffle strikes, why do you NEED to take your high power rifle can apart?

    Here's a link to a thread on SNIPER'S HIDE, discussing the Wind Talker.

    Before you make a final decision and lay out a lot of cash, you should consider doing some serious research and make SURE that you really need a take apart HP rifle can before you lay out the money. For all practical purposes a suppressor is a lifetime purchase since the market for used suppressors isn't very strong.
  7. Aaron Baker

    Aaron Baker Well-Known Member

    That's not a thread discussing the Wind Talker. It is a thread where one guy asks about it, another guy says to get an AAC instead and the rest of the thread is about suppressing an M1A.

    It is possible to have baffle strikes with a threaded suppressor, but depending on the design, not necessarily any more common that a baffle strike when a welded can unthreads from the muzzle. Any time there are threads, you'll need to periodically check them for tightness.

    Some people want a user serviceable HP rifle can because they want to also shoot .22 LR or cast lead. It isn't unreasonable. There are drawbacks, and they merit discussion, but keep it High Road.

  8. Charles S

    Charles S Well-Known Member

    Unless the can is welded to the gun then the can has a big a chance of coming loose on a threaded barrel as does the end cap or the any part of a threaded can. The baffles in the can I referred to are not threaded.

    If the can is of a quick detachable design then it really depends of the individual mechanism. I don't see that a user serviceable can is at any higher risk than a welded can.

    This is the High Road lets try to keep it there.

    No... Feel free to your own research. I know for a fact... I talked to them myself ACC, AWC, and Gem Tech will void your warranty if they know you are shooting subsonic ammo in a rifle can.

    Baffle strike are inevitable over time. There is a current thread on Silencer talk by a manufacturer that estimates 75% of the cans they re-build have had a baffle strike.

    I have not had any problems.... however since as you so astutely pointed out a can is a life time purchase. I simply wanted one rated to do all the things I could possibly want to do and wanted be able to service it myself.
  9. Captains1911

    Captains1911 Well-Known Member

    Would you mind providing a link to the thread you mentioned? I looked but could not find. Thanks.
  10. Swampman

    Swampman Old Fart

    Why is that?
  11. Charles S

    Charles S Well-Known Member

    I don't generally post links to other forums, but at your request:


    My memory is failing me sorry - according to this thread it is 70% noted on re-builds not 75%. My mistake :)

    According to my research - the most common cause is loose threads, other common causes include using poor quality ammo, warping of the barrel or can with heating, miss alined threads, and ammo that is too heavy for the rate of twist that does not stabilize (most often with subsonic ammo in rifles).

    I guess the best advice given to me was buy a quality can from a manufacturer who honors their warranty, use quality ammo and don't to anything stupid.


    Here is a Gemtech can with a torture test.

    My next can may be a Liberty. I hear really good things about them.

    Last edited: Jan 13, 2013
  12. chaser_2332

    chaser_2332 Well-Known Member

    No need to take a centerfire can apart and clean.
  13. wacki

    wacki Well-Known Member

    Liberty, SWR & SilencerCo are the top cans w/ best customer service. Don't underestimate Liberty, their website is ho-hum but their cans meter incredibly well. SWR can's have locking teeth. Check out the silencershop.com videos on the SWR SpecWar.

    I've heard good things about the folks at Thompson Machine too.

    Check out a thread at NFAtalk.org titled:


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