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Best way to remove military crimp from 223 and 308 brass

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Lone_Gunman, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. Lone_Gunman

    Lone_Gunman Well-Known Member

    I am about to reload some surplus 223 and 308 brass. What is the best way to remove the military crimp? What tool do I need?
  2. HankB

    HankB Well-Known Member

    RCBS has a press-mounted tool to swage out the primer pocket which works well.

    If you have a case neck deburring tool, you can use it to essentially cut out the crimp, but you have to keep an eye on what you're doing so you don't put too much of a taper on the rim of the primer pocket.
  3. Lone_Gunman

    Lone_Gunman Well-Known Member

    Can the RCBS tool be used on a Lee turret press?
    I found product you are talking about at Midway. If I can use this on my Lee press, I think I will get it. Can I use Lee shellholders with it?
  4. dmftoy1

    dmftoy1 Well-Known Member

    You asked for the "best" way so I'll throw this out . . .the Dillon Swage tool. . . they're hard to find used but I found on one on Ebay for $60 and I think it' s the "best" short of a Dillon 1050 reloader which does it automatically.

    Just my .02

  5. USSR

    USSR Well-Known Member


    The Dillon Super Swage 600 is the only way to go.

  6. Chawbaccer

    Chawbaccer Well-Known Member

    The RCBS tool mounts like a regular 7/8 14 die, it soesn't use a shell holder as such but the swager mounts where the shell holder usually goes. I havn't seen mine for a while, I think I got that right.
  7. Jimbo1

    Jimbo1 Well-Known Member

    Correct Chewbaccer, The normal shell holder isn't used. I just did about a 100 of them last night with the RCBS one.
  8. trickyasafox

    trickyasafox Well-Known Member

    i like to cut out the primer crimp, just seems easier to me. i use a hornady tool chucked in a drill. can do about 125-150 cases in 30 minutes that way.
  9. Lone_Gunman

    Lone_Gunman Well-Known Member

  10. spencerhut

    spencerhut Well-Known Member

    No shell holder required. I think it meant to say it the base slides in place where the shell holder normally goes. I recall someone mentioning the size of the ram on your press needs to fit in the "cup". I have an RCBS single stage I use it on so this is not a problem for me. I love this tool by the way. I've removed the crimps using the RCBS pocket reaming method on my case prep center (the motorized doo-hickey RCBS sells) and let me tell you that method is for the birds.
    The RCBS Swagging tool just plain rocks. :D I can process one case every 2-3 seconds with no mess and no brass lost from the case.
  11. DaveInFloweryBranchGA

    DaveInFloweryBranchGA Well-Known Member

    Will the RCBS swager fit on a Lee Classic Cast press? Seems like a nice little item.
  12. Jimbo1

    Jimbo1 Well-Known Member

    Dave, does it take a standard shell holder and die? If so, yes it will fit.
  13. Winger Ed.

    Winger Ed. Well-Known Member

    I've used the RCBS swagging tool in a single stage press, and its OK, but I keep coming back to using the common hand deburring tool-- that one about the size of your thumb in the drill press.

    Run the drill press as slow as it will go, while wearing leather gloves, just bump the primer pocket against the tool for about a second or less.

    I use it for inside & outside neck deburring after triming a batch of cases too.
  14. Khornet

    Khornet Well-Known Member

    Ihave the RCBS tool

    it's a swager, and will fit any standard single-stage press, but I don't know about progressives.

    It works well for .223, but I find with .30-'06 that it swages incompletely and I have to run a chamfer/deburr tool in the pocket afterward. Anymore I just use the chamfer tool for '06 and the swager for .223.
  15. ocabj

    ocabj Well-Known Member

    I experience with the RCBS swaging tool is the complete opposite. Works great on large primers (.308 and .30-06), but doesn't do anything for small primers. I had to ream the .223 LC brass that I got from once fired XM193.

    Not a big deal for me, though. I just buy processed LC .223 brass for my short line competition loads.
  16. DaveInFloweryBranchGA

    DaveInFloweryBranchGA Well-Known Member

  17. g56

    g56 Well-Known Member

    I've been reloading crimped primer military brass for a very long time, for most of that time I've used the RCBS swager set up, many years of frustration and agony with a kit that doesn't work very well. After many ears of reading how well the Dillon Super Swager worked I finally broke down and bought one....I've been kicking myself ever since!

    Why in the heck did I wait so long to buy the Dillon? The Dillon Super Swage worked far better and was far faster than the RCBS, no comparison at all. The Dillon Super Swage is not cheap...but it's worth it!
  18. 33736

    33736 New Member

    Military crimp removal

    Forget most of what you read. Wanna know how to remove a military crimp? Without buying a $100.00 Dillon tool..DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY! First you have to understand what a crimp is. It's merely a stamp that stamps the case and "crimps" the primer in place, so it won't back out. Simple and there's not much to it. There is absolutely no reason to use a drill bit or any fancy/expensive tool that is probably not all that fast anyway. The very best, fastest and simplelist method is to attach a RBCS champering tool to the end of a high speed hand drill and champer the primer pocket edge. The "crimp" is removed in less than a second. Trust me, you thank me under your breath, when to try it.
  19. medalguy

    medalguy Well-Known Member

    I have used most of the tools out there over the past 40 years and finally made the switch over to a Dillon Super Swager, and I believe it's the best and fastest tool available. I have cut out primer crimps using most every type of cutter there is, and frequently cut too much and have to throw the brass away. With the Dillon, you don't remove any brass, just push it to the side. Every case is usable and it's extremely fast. I can swage over 1,000 cases an hour and not end up with a sore hand afterwards. Not expensive if you use it very much. It pays for itself in no time in my opinion.
  20. snuffy

    snuffy Well-Known Member

    Your first post is to drag up a 3 year old thread, just to disagree with what everybody else was saying? Hopefully you will have more to add in the future!

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