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Black paint to prevent rust?

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by 1911JMB, Jan 9, 2006.

  1. 1911JMB

    1911JMB Well-Known Member

    Yesterday I shot in the rain at an outdoor range. When I got home late I decided to leave the cleaning for early this morning before work. It was rainy, the guns got wet, and of course 16 hours in wet cases will rust guns with a blued finish. I know all about proper lubrication and gun maintainance. Besides being a devoted gun nut, I'm a skilled tradesmen, but I screwed up. I didn't so much as spray them with Rem Clean, and I payed for it with 2 hours of steel wooling and wire brushing this morning. My Sig P220, 1911, Remington 870, Yugo SKS, Mauser, and 10/22 were all coated with light, but wide spread surface rust.

    This debacle made me wonder, how good of an idea would it be to cover the external non-moving metal parts of my guns with black paint? (The external surfaces like the barrels, slides, and recievers.) Thats what I do to my high carbon steel headed Death Stick framing hammer, and it seems to work fairly well. I know that paint would help prevent rust, but would it permanently screw up the finish or cause any other problems that I'm not thinking of? My theory is that paint could be easily removed with acetone or something if desired. Please bear in mind that none of my guns are show pieces, they are all well used. Ugly but functional is fine with me, as is the obvious need for occasional repainting if you guys don't talk me out of this painting idea.

    Again, I don't need any suggestions about Silicone cloth, Marine Tough Cloth, CLP, or anything else about proper maintainance, I just screwed up, and I know exactly what I SHOULD have done. Plus, I forgot to mention, I know I can get my guns refinished with nickel or stainless or something, but I am thinking more along the lines of cheap.
  2. obm

    obm Well-Known Member

    good black paints i would recommend are: KG-Gunkote, Duracoat and Black-T.

    first two you can do yourself.

    using regular paint may be problematic, the gun paints above are made to handle hot barrels.
  3. Koobuh

    Koobuh Well-Known Member

    A lot of the old Russian weapons were slathered generously with black paint rather than bluing, and it seems to work pretty well.
    You might look into the various coatings that are available in colors, like Duracoat, as they are a hard (not just a bluing salts dip) coat that stands up well to use.
    Just painting on works OK, but heat curing the painted parts works best. A dedicated stove is preferable, because you won't want to cook in one you've used for this duty.
  4. TarpleyG

    TarpleyG Well-Known Member

  5. 1911JMB

    1911JMB Well-Known Member


    I only have one oven, and I don't want to mess it up. Would a heatgun properly do heat curing, or do you need more heat? Would a torch work? I'm new to this idea.
  6. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Well-Known Member

    Heat guns and torches will NOT work.
    You need an oven for the heat-cure finishes.

    Brownell's does sell gun coatings that don't need heat to cure.



    As the British, Belgian's, and French discovered back around the Second World War, paint is actually a superior protective finish for guns.
    Before the gun can rust the paint has to be worn off to bare metal.

    Other advantages are, it's easy to touch up worn areas, and you can have about any color of gun you want, including camo.
  7. Sir Aardvark

    Sir Aardvark Well-Known Member

    Paint would probably work; Rustoleum makes a High-Temp Bar-Be-Que paint that is flat black, but you would probably get better results from a product that is designed for guns.

    Check out Brownell's website and check out their spray-on oven-cure finishes, they are not as cheap as paint, but are cheaper than hard chrome and Roguard.

    the following is from Brownell's website:


    Spray-On Oven-Cure Finishes
    by: Tim Dillon
    Our Spray-On, Oven-Cure Finishes have become quite popular with gunsmiths because they are so easy to use and they
    provide a first-class looking finish in only a matter of minutes. Brownells Aerosol Baking Lacquer was the first that was
    developed. It was an outgrowth of the liquid Baking Lacquers because so many customers that had tried them requested
    an easier method of application. Brownells Teflon®/ Moly Oven Cure Gun Finish was a further refinement of the
    aerosol process that incorporates two, highly effective lubricants into a single application. The Teflon/Moly finish is the
    right choice when maintaining tolerances between close-fitting parts is important.
    We’ve tested both finishes extensively and there are some common links that apply if you want to achieve good looking
    results. It is important to apply multiple light coats to the surface in order to achieve a smooth, even coating. Most
    importantly, both of these finishes are highly reactive to heat. Prewarming the part before applying the spray helps to dry
    the paint quickly so you can apply additional coats sooner. Heat the part until it is just warm to the touch, about 95° F. I
    also use a blow dryer at the same time as I’m spraying to dry the paint almost as soon as it hits the surface. This is
    especially critical if you are painting in less than 65° F. temperature. Aim the warm air from the blow dryer at the surface
    and spray the paint at the same area letting the paint mix with the warm air as it is applied to the surface. This allows the
    spray to dry very quickly onto the surface letting you avoid the “dreaded runs”. Do not get the blow dryer closer than 12”
    and do not get the part so hot that the paint begins to curl.
    If a run does occur, let the paint dry and lightly sand the run from the surface with 400 grit wet-or-dry abrasive paper, then
    respray the affected area.
    The spray-on/ oven-bake finishes tend to level themselves out when they are baked, so slight surface imperfections won’t
    show after baking.
    Allow the finish to fully dry to the touch before baking. Here are two tips that will improve your results when baking small
    parts like pins. Use a pie tin that has ventilation holes punched in the bottom. You can lay the parts flat on the tin and you
    will not get baking marks on the side that is touching the pie tin. Or, attach small parts to a cast iron magnet and hang the
    magnet by a piece of wire from the upper oven rack.
    Hopefully, these tech tips will make using our spray-on/oven-bake finishes easier. We are currently working on bringing
    out additional colors of the Oven Cure Gun Finish, and we’ll keep you posted as they become available. Here’s a listing of
    the colors and selections we have available.
  8. obm

    obm Well-Known Member

    you should check w/duracoat, i believe you don't have to oven cure their product...it just takes longer to cure if you don't use an oven.

  9. 1911JMB

    1911JMB Well-Known Member

    Does anybody know many guns could I coat with that 50 dollar duracoat kit?
  10. Don't Tread On Me

    Don't Tread On Me Well-Known Member

    Well...that's why I hate blued rifles. Hell, I don't like parkerizing if I can avoid it. Stainless steel or Chrome is my choice whenever possible, followed by quality park.

    I know you don't want to hear this, but CLP IS the undisputed king of rust prevention in my book. I've done a torture test here at home with identical piece of metal, salt water spray over the course of days, and about 10 different oils, and let's just say all I use is CLP, and preferably LP which lasts longer and is thicker.

    I have 1 blued rifle, and I treat it like gold. Even fingerprints can leave blemishes on the metal if left for a long time. Blueing is the worst. The parked guns I have are my AR's and that's the barrels and internal parts. The barrels have a nice thick well done finish, and they don't rust unless they get scratched or gouged. I am never getting another blued firearm again. I am very picky like that.

    Paint is NO good on guns imo. I hate paint. It is difficult to apply properly on metal, let alone a gun. Trust me, my family has been in structural steel painting for 40 years, and coating metal is not easy for longevity. Most coatings are not durable to abrasion.

    A MAK-90 I've shot had been painted forward of the gas block. The flash hider, barrel, sight post forward of gas block were painted black. I rapid fired 1 magazine, and it wasn't really that rapid - and the heat cooked off most of the paint, cracked the rest. Perhaps paints designed for engine blocks or barbeques might work with heat better...Best would be refinishing, but that's expensive. A place here near where I live in Safety Harbor does seriously professional refinishing and chroming. Accurate Plating is their name.

    Bottom line, avoid water at all costs. Treat your guns as if they are your life. Get a gun wet, clean it ASAP and oil it well. I use an aircompressor to blast them out. If you don't have compressed air, use WD-40...I hate WD-40 for use on guns, but in this case its being used EXACTLY for what it was designed for - water displacement.
  11. obm

    obm Well-Known Member

  12. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Well-Known Member

    WARNING! This post is written with the express intent to inform and entertain. Due to the differences in human nature, behavior and culture, it is possible that information contained within this post may annoy the reader although that is certainly not the intent of the author. Reading past this point constitutes an agreement by the reader to waive his legal right not to be annoyed by anonymous communication on the internet.

    If you do not wish to waive this right, please stop reading at this point and use the ignore feature on this forum to avoid future posts by this author. Thank you.

    Muffler/exhaust system paint will hold up to heat. I've seen more than one recommend for grill paint as well--besides those on this thread.
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2006
  13. bogie

    bogie Well-Known Member

    What _is_ this infatuation with black paint?

    Guys, be different... Pink, purple, green, whatever... Make 'em think...
  14. Tokugawa

    Tokugawa Well-Known Member

    what rusted your guns was leaving them in a case where the water couldn't evaporate.
  15. 1911JMB

    1911JMB Well-Known Member

    Thanks to all for the advise. I will be trying out duracoat.
  16. Farnham

    Farnham Well-Known Member

    Just saw an Ishapore Enfield at the gunshow this weekend with "original" finish. Looked a lot like black Krylon to me. I hear BBQ paint works, too.


  17. asknight

    asknight Well-Known Member


    If you don't want to clean your guns immediately after getting them wet, then WD-40 is your friend. That's what it was designed for... water displacement.

    Read This
  18. hso

    hso Moderator Staff Member

  19. ball3006

    ball3006 Well-Known Member

    Wipe your guns down.....

    with LPS2. It is a milspec rust preventative and lube which dries. Leaving them in the case did not do them any good, as posted above.......chris3
  20. bosshoff

    bosshoff Well-Known Member


    Excellent link and or post Asknight! I love posts with actual scientific testing and or proof behind claims.

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