BMF

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kBob

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This was left to me by a dead buddy.

It has since this photo gotten horribly rusty. I think either on his last outing the sheath got wet or somehow condenste formed in the sheath between the blade and sharpening steel while in storage. Other things stored in the same safe in nylon sheaths and holsters had no such damage.

-kBob
 

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My usual response to a rust problem on a working blade is to get out some fine gun oil and a few bits of wet/dry sandpaper. I start with 220 and work my way up to 600 grit with each sanding sequence using both sandpaper and that gun oil. I carefully clean off the blade/sanded surface between each grit usage. No, it won't remove the stained areas but you can be sure that you can restore that blade's utility in short order.

For my own working blades (from 12" cimeter on down) I never store them in a sheath of any kind - preferring to wrap each blade loosely in a slightly oiled cloth (and for fish cutting/consumption purposes - the oil for those blades is ordinary salad oil, instead of the gun oil I prefer for other blades that will not touch food).
 
Actually, looking back in the archieves I did have a picture of some of the damage on the other side, just did not see it in the the thumbnail.

The blade has a sort of frosted non reflective finish and when removing the rust one removes the finish.

It may end up being a shiny BMF.

-kBob
 

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Pretty sure they were bead blasted.

If so, bead blasting it again will make it look like new again.

rc
 
sigh

Your knife so whatever you do with it is up to you, but for other people's information, unless the knife is pitted there are much gentler approaches that will preserve the finish and patina on a knife.

First step is to go at it with elbow grease, terry towel and light oil to remove as much easily removed surface rust as possible.

Second step is to break out the Flitz and coat the blade and let it sit a couple of hours and then wash off the Flitz and go at it with the light oil and terry towel.

Third step is to take the knife to a shop with an industrial ultrasonic cleaner and have them suspend the blade, but not the handle in the solution at high power. That will pop whatever rust will come off without having to remove metal.

Lastly, if there's no way to save the finish is to hit it with 0000 steel wool and oil and if that still don't get it you're going to have to go after it with abrasives and remove metal.
 
no advice here, just chiming in to say - congratulations on a great knife. i know it sux to lose a friend (i know it all too well) and i am sorry you had to :( but that is a cool knife that brings back cool memories. back from the Carbon V TM, Buckmaster, Australian Bowie, Master Tanto days of old :)
 
HSO is, of course, right. My methods are for working blades that weren't anything more than working blades when they left the factory. I forget that many own blades that are far better built than the heavy butcher knives that I commonly use (mostly Forschner, occasionally cheap Old Hickory blades). As much as I enjoy fine workmanship I'd probably have a high quality knife buried in rough rope or fish bones in short order.... and keeping any of them rust free around saltwater is just a dream in my world.
 
kBob said:
But in the past half hour I have started to wonder what it would look like polished and cold blued or cold browned.......

-kBob
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Bob - Stop, put down the knife. You're just in a post Thanksgiving and Pre Christmas funk.

Now - move a away from the knife and just... breath... In.... Out....

Better?

Wait - what, did you say browned? I could kinda get on board with that - Doggonit, knock that off!
 
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