Can I make an Officer's Recoil Spring from a Gov't?

[1911Tuner]

Just a quick note for the ones choosin' up sides here...

Let's understand up front that Chuck is a talented smith and not only at the top of his game...is probably one of the top 5 or 6 pistolsmiths in the country. He's expensive, but he's worth it.

He's very good at what he does...and is entitled to all due respect. He just doesn't understand what I do...and that I don't do things in the accepted way much of the time.

I don't do custom work in the normally accepted sense. I've seen the job, and I don't want it.

I do reliability work first and foremost...and whatever I have to do in order to reach that goal is fair game...within the physical and mechanical limitations of the gun. Well...Mostly, anyway. I occasionally travel outside of the window, but not very far.

I don't automatically begin surgery until I've exhausted all other options...and I usually find that it's not required. If I can make the gun function without it...I go with that. Most of the time it's somethin' simple, anyway. No sense in rebuilding an engine to stop spark knock when you can just go up to the next fuel octane level. No?

Neither do I build tight, match-grade pistols...and 99.5% of the "building" that I do is rebuilding...and usually old or badly worn pistols. I rarely build anything from scratch with all new parts...and even on the ones that I have done that with...I don't "overtighten" anything. I don't like excessive slop, either...before that comes into question. My pistols don't rattle like a "bucket of bolts." There are a few members here who have handled my pistols, and maybe they'll see this and chime in. I won't call on'em to provide backup, though. It's their decision.

I especially don't jam the barrel vertically into the slide for a "Lockup like a Vault." I like .003 inch of vertical play, and if I fit the barrel and lose that...I loosen it up at the top until I get the clearance that I want. Odd? By custom/bullseye standards...you bet. Why would anybody do that?

I have my own reasons. I'll leave it to Chuck to figure out.

 

[ugaarguy]

Tuner, do the cut down GM springs, with their lighter compression weight, wear out more quickly than the heavier weight Commander springs?

Also, why do you recommend cutting down GM springs when Commander springs are readily available from Brownell's, direct from several manufacturers, and from other gun parts & accessory businesses?

 

[1911Tuner]

Tuner, do the cut down GM springs, with their lighter compression weight, wear out more quickly than the heavier weight Commander springs?

No. If anything, they seem to last a little longer...probably because I wind up with an extra coil or so more than most of the packaged Commander springs. Colt's OEM springs have 23.5 turns. Wolff's run to about 22.5 turns.

Also, why do you recommend cutting down GM springs when Commander springs are readily available

They work, and they're a lot cheaper than springs that are Commander specific, and there's very little...if any...practical difference.

But, again...If the pistol has a reverse-plug system...you'll have to go for a spring that is specific to that particular design and/or model...just like the larger spring in the old Colt OM system.

 

[1911Tuner]

Since it's come up...Let's touch on the question of "Optimum" for a minute, and how it relates to what the pistol's role is.

With anything, there's is presumably a purpose. "What's it FOR?"

Optimum means different things to different people. Optimum for me may not not meet Chuck's standards. His optimum may not be the same optimum for the smith who builds Bullseye pistols. None of the above will be optimum for the racegunner trying to shave another hundredth of a second off his split times.

I take a very utiltarian/spartan view of the 1911 pistol. The custom builders may aspire to higher levels, as is their right and privelege. I don't doubt that they have higher standards than I do. They have their own ideas as to what they want to achieve, and apply them.

To me, optimum is that the gun will function...period. Dirty...Clean...dry or oiled. Function and durability is the bottom line. Accuracy is a secondary concern. 3 inches at 25 yards is plenty good enough to save ol' skinny at 10 feet. "Pretty" is trailing in a far distant 3rd place, and "Unique"or "One of a Kind" is bringing up the rear...way back near the horizon. If I can make one meet my idea of optimum, I don't go any further. There's no need and I generally don't have time to mess with it anyway.

I do like a clean trigger, but it's not necessary for it to break like a glass rod. I'm good with 5 pounds...or 5.5 or even 6 pounds...as long as it's clean. If I can't shoot well enough to stop an attack at 10 or 15 feet with a 6 pound trigger and 3-inch/25-yard accuracy...I can't do it with a 3.5-pound trigger and match-class accuracy.

The pursuit of awe-inspiring accuracy is a worthy goal. No argument there...but it's almost gotten to the point of absurdity in some circles. The mechanical ability of a pistol to eat the X-ring out of a target without enlarging the ring is interesting, but only relevant to those who shoot that particular discipline...like the racegun that's a fraction of a second faster in its cycle. It's only important to the practitioner of that discipline looking to make .09 instead of .1 splits. I can't figure out why that's important...but to each his own. Mine is not to judge.
It's important to him, and he is welcome to it. It's just not necessary in a general purpose or street gun...and that's the class of pistols that I work with. If that makes me the odd man out...I'm okay with that, and actually a bit proud of it. Never been one to follow the crowd anyway.