CLP Gun Cleaning Products

Which CLP product?

  • G96 Gun Treatment

    Votes: 3 2.6%

  • Breakfree CLP

    Votes: 103 90.4%

  • Ballistol

    Votes: 8 7.0%
  • Total voters
    114
  • Poll closed .
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i received a free sample of "weapon shield" a couple of years ago and since then, it is the only cleaning product i need to use on my firearms.

cleans, lubes and protects in one application.
 
dak0ta said:
So today I bought some Hoppe's #9 solvent and an older can of Ballistol but still new. It's an older can but it said Universal Oil. There was a modern can with newer labelling but was a small aerosol can and they wanted $12 for it. My 500 ml can of Ballistol liquid universal oil cost the same price. I was torn because I wasn't sure if they were the same product, but they advertised the same thing, except the newer labelling says for Firearms as well. But my old can says Rust preventative, Gun Cleaner, and Lubricant. I feel like they are the same product just older packaging.
Click to expand...

These days there are a number of products (mostly for industrial use) under the Ballistol name, and because this one says "USTA" (whatever that means) but still says that it's for cleaning guns, I bet that it's ALMOST the same stuff as original Ballistol, but with some ingredients added, subtracted, or substituted. I suspect that it will work fine, but it's not 100% the same as the Sportman's Oil or Universal Oil (and known by some other names as well), which is the original formulation.

Here is the product page for USTA:

http://www.ballistol.de/english/index.php?page=01&sub=04&sub2=31
 
I read the MSDS for the USTA and it doesn't seem as non-toxic as the Sportman's Oil becuase it says that long term contact with skin can cause dermatitis and irritation. Hence, some ingredients are definitely different in the product because the Sportman's Oil can be applied to wounds. Plus it also states that USTA isn't 100% biodegradable like Sportman's oil.

Should I just return it and get BreakFree CLP or something for cheaper? Ballistol ain't that cheap.
 
THe Dove, I'm not exactly sure what it is that your asking. I don't know what you mean by SOP (Forgive me for being new at this I guess) If your asking for my own personal preferance in cleaning my firearms, I posted it earlier (Post #9). I did not question anyone in order to prove them wrong or try to stir up any dust. I am simply new to firearms myself and learned the procedure from a good buddes father. He was injured in a motorcycle accident about 15 years or so ago and is now in a wheel chair. What I'm saying is that he has not purchased any cleaning supplies in at least 15 years. Perhaps the Hoppes #9 he used was better then the stuff I use today. However he recommended I use Hoppes, assuming that it would be the same stuff. Once again, I didn't mean to offend you or anyone else, but the tone of your message seems like one of an person upset with the fact I am trying to get an answer and asking 2 differant people to get it. I can not simply go out to th store and buy a 20 year old bottle of #9 to compair it to my own bottle, all I can do at this point is ask the more knowledgable people here, people who have been around this type of thing for a long time.
 
LELYNN nothing it's all a gimick & selling point my product is better than theirs YADA YADA YADA, I start using EEZOX & never looked back
 
dak0ta said:
I read the MSDS for the USTA and it doesn't seem as non-toxic as the Sportman's Oil becuase it says that long term contact with skin can cause dermatitis and irritation. Hence, some ingredients are definitely different in the product because the Sportman's Oil can be applied to wounds. Plus it also states that USTA isn't 100% biodegradable like Sportman's oil.

Should I just return it and get BreakFree CLP or something for cheaper? Ballistol ain't that cheap.
Click to expand...

Only you can decide whether things like low toxicity are worth the additional cost. I'd have trouble helping you decide anyway because I can get Ballistol Sportsman's Oil for half the price of Break-Free CLP, so obviously we're in very different markets.
 
I just bought a bottle of BF CLP and I'm going to give it a try in a few minutes. I'll still clean the bore with Hoppes 9 since I've used it for forty years with satisfaction. Heck of it is I really do love the aroma too. :)
 
Oro- The drill I like is cleaning parts with Breakfree CLP aerosol. For lubing/protection, I like M Pro 7 liquid.
For bores it is hard to beat Hoppes #9 and that is what I use in that application.
Click to expand...

This is almost my exact routine also, Except i add white lithium grease to rails and barrel lugs.

Ill start by wiping the whole gun down with paper towels to remove old oil and grease and dirt. Then clean with everything with CLP and wipe that off. Then the bore gets Hoppes 9 and i wipe that dry. Then everything gets a layer of M Pro 7 internally and external and left there and i reassemble the gun and wipe the M Pro off the external parts.
If a gun See's little shooting it will get a thin layer of M Pro down the bore.
If i shoot that gun alot it gets a thin layer of CLP down the bore.
Slide rails and barrel lugs get a thin layer of lithium grease, But only in spots where dirt wont collect in it. Same goes for Bolt action bolts and rails.
 
Personally I think CLP is a great field-expedient all purpose cleaner/lubricant. I keep a small bottle in my vest and one of those single use ampules inside my AR. But for home cleaning, I don't like to use "all in one" since there are generally single purpose cleaners and lubes that are better at the one task they were designed for. I generally use Hoppes for cleaning parts, Hoppes copper solvent for the barrel or a foaming cleaner, and FP10 for lubrication. And RemOil for external wipedowns.

But like I said, if I'm in the field, I'll use Break Free CLP for everything.
 
Ballistol

I have owened glock pistols for years and have tried many cleaners ,although glocks very seldom need any lube, the barrel and bore need cleaning and solvent, i have used CLP, no. 9, both very good, but Ballistol ,seems to work the best, the more you use it the better , i spray it in the barrel and coat the outside of the barrel ,let is soak for a few minutes then wipe clean ,then mop the inside with a clean patch.i have even seen improvment in the action. Ballistol was invented in germany for the military in world war 2 . A very good product still !. It even works on wood stocks also.
 
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=545607

is a test with products. http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Breakfree CLP at Walmart is hard to beat for storage and general shooting and plinking. I have used it for several years as have several of my friends. I have been told some of the guys who go through 1500 rounds a day can start having problems with the CLP breaking down and gumming....I have never seen that myself and have only heard stories and I probably do not have 1000 rounds of 223 to my name so I don't worry about it. Pistols, ARs, and SKS shot with corrosive ammo always get a shot of CLP after cleaning and as a rust preventive; never had a problem.

It really is better to see actual test on products because what works for someone in Arizona might not work the same for someone in South Florida. Every test I have seen Breakfree comes out within the top tier of lubes tested and certainly beat most for the price.
 
Why do first time posters dredge up dead threads for their first post (Post #35)?
Happens so frequently it's almost cliche...
 
Breakfree CLP is used by the army for there weapons per TM9-1005-319-10 CLP means Cleans, Lubricates & Preserves

ADVICE ON THE USE OF CLP
CLP - Cleaner, Lubricant and Preservative - does three things at once: ONE - It contains solvants to dissolve firing residue and carbon. TWO - It lays down a layer of Teflon as it dries to provide lubrication. THREE - It prevents rust from forming.
Use CLP as follows: a. Always shake bottle well before use. b. Place a few drops on a patch or rag. c. Clean your rifle with these patches and rags until they come out clean. d. Take a clean patch or rag and apply a fresh, light coat.
NOTE
Don’t “dry clean” your rifle. DO NOT use hot water or other solvents or you will wash away the Teflon lubricant that has been building up as a result of your using CLP.
 
I use Break-Free CLP as a lubricant, it's ineffective as a cleaner.

Cheap brake cleaner in a spray can works as well as any of the aerosol products, for a fraction of the cost. Good for removing soot and old, dirty lubes.

For metal fouling . . . Hoppe's #9 today is different than the "old" forumula, which included nitro benzene. It still works well, but Hoppe's BR9 works a bit better at cleaning a barrel . . . and Hoppe's is still one of the moderately effective cleaners that doesn't carry a warning against being left in the bore too long. (Accubore, Shooter's Choice, and Butch's Bore Shine don't seem to work any better. Haven't made up my mind on Blue Wonder.)

Haven't tried Ed's Red yet, but I should . . . a little casual research suggests that the chemicals in most bore cleaners are CHEAP in industrial quantities, at least, compared to the price charged; there's a huge markup there. Ed's Red has the potential to save some money, but how well it will work on metal fouling remains to be seen.
 
For average everyday cleaning I use break free clp or gunslick gun flush. Evaporates fast and is a great degreaser. If I've shot a lot and let it sit for a while I like to use Mpro-7 gun cleaner. It's a bit expensive but it's the best I've seen so far with carbon build up. It even removes most fouling and would recommend it for such. For copper fouling I use montana xtreme copper killer. It's cheap and works well. Every now and then I'll use hoppes #9 just cause I miss the smell.

If I shoot surplus ammo through my ak I like to use boiling water followed by wd-40 to remove the corrosive salts. Then I use the normal cleaning products. I've used foaming products but wasn't impressed with them. I've used butches bore shine with good success too.
 
i have been told several times that you need to change up your cleaning solvent occasionally, no matter what you use. the reasoning behind that is that every solvent, has some variation to it from every other one. and whatever you use, something else will likely have an ingredient that will dissolve or loosen whatever you normally use leaves behind. i have tried this for myself several times, and found it to be true. i currently have around a dozen different products on the shelf to clean my guns with. and i try to rotate the guns thru different solvents occasionally just to keep any major accumulations at bay. i do not think there is any one solvent that will remove every type of fouling from the bore. most do a very good job at removing most of the fouling. but to get every spec of fouling from any gun every time would be a ridiculous task. and one that would provide no real world difference in the way the gun shoots.
 
Nitrobenzene was removed from the Hoppes #9 formulation in the 1980s after California declared nitrobenzene to be cancer causing.

Good old #9 ain't Nitro no mo.
 
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