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Cold Blue

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by BlackAgnes, Dec 30, 2004.

  1. BlackAgnes

    BlackAgnes New Member

    Dec 27, 2003
    Does anyone have any experience with really good cold blues? I've read about "Van's" and "Blue Wonder"--but I don't know if they are any good.



  2. ACORN

    ACORN Active Member

    Oct 24, 2003
    "The shining city on a hill"
    Hi Tim, I've never used either of the brands you named so I can't speak about them. I have used Oxpho from Brownells with pretty good results. They claim that their testing shows it lasts the longest of the cold blues. I have only used it to touch up a bald spot here and there though not a whole firearm.
  3. MP-5

    MP-5 New Member

    May 18, 2003
    Second for Oxpho!! ;)
  4. CWatson

    CWatson New Member

    May 22, 2003
    The Blue Wonder's application process is more involved than other out of the bottle blues, you have to heat the metal up with a hair drier and apply several coats. I did a frankenized P-38 over a year ago and shoot it a couple times a month and the finish has held up fine. I also like the Blue Wonder for touch ups. It does not stain or stick to factory finishes and by applying coats till I reached the correct darkness I have touched up guns as dark as my Ruger Security Six .

  5. Clark

    Clark Senior Member

    Jan 3, 2003
    Where I5 meets the rain forest
    I have been experimenting with cold blues.
    I find that every piece of steel seems to react a little differently.

    These days I wear disposable gloves and my first try is:
    1) Degrease with Simple Green
    2) rinse
    3) dry with kleenex
    4) rub on G96 Gun Blue creme* with Scotch brite scour pad while spinning
    object in the mini lathe. Pinch hard enough to rub off some of the blue
    but not all of it.
    5) Degrease
    6) rinse
    7) dry
    8) apply oxpho blue [with cue tip or scour pad in lathe]
    9) Do not rinse, but cover with motor oil.
    10) let stand over night [it gets really dark overnight]
    11) wipe off
    12) re oil
    *Sometimes I use Dicropan T-4 for the first blue, because it is really
    dark, but not resistant to steel wool.

    The advantage of my system is there is $15 invested, it takes 10
    minutes to do, it gets really dark, it stands up to rubbing.

    This may not be as durable or pretty as factory, but in 10 minutes
    effort, I get 95% of the way there. You want it nicer? do it all again
    and get 97%.

    The idea is to get a dark but wimpy blue in the micro crevices, and a
    resilient but not so dark blue on the tops of the micro ridges.

    The beauty of applying the cold blue with an abrasive, is that all that
    will rub off is already rubbed off.

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