Cold blueing recomendations
- Thread starter tango3065
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Walt Sherrill
Member
Search down in this area a bit, and you'll find a recent series of messages on cold-bluing. They'll probablyl answer your questions. (Generally speaking, most of the folks here don't like to use cold-bluing for a complete gun... I've done it with good success, but uniformity of bluing is a problem. Also, I found Birchwood-Casey cold blue to be one of the most "temporary" of cold blues, while several brands from Brownells do quite well.)
You might consider Gun-kote or one of the other similar spray on/bake on finishes for your fiend's BP gun. Much, much more durable. You may have to create a "light" box to do the baking, however.
You might consider Gun-kote or one of the other similar spray on/bake on finishes for your fiend's BP gun. Much, much more durable. You may have to create a "light" box to do the baking, however.
Walt Sherrill
Member
I've not seen it done -- only heard of it -- but heard/read of it on this part of the Forum.
You'll have to hope that others here can give you more info.
Your wife is wise. Gun-Kote apparently makes a great finish, but stinks like SHI... urh. Its pretty bad, while its cooking.
You'll have to hope that others here can give you more info.
Your wife is wise. Gun-Kote apparently makes a great finish, but stinks like SHI... urh. Its pretty bad, while its cooking.
bountyhunter
member
Some coatings give off flammable vapors while cooking. If the relay clicking to regulate the oven heater has exposed contacts (or any spark is around) you can cause an explosion in the house. After that happens, you will be living in that unhappy land in hawaai called Lakanookey.
ACORN
Member
Brownell's sells a cold blue called Oxpho, that according to them is one of the more durable of the cold blues on the market.
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
''Formula 44/40'' and ''Oxpho'' are both quite good .... and, ''Blue Wonder'' is reckoned to work very well. I have some but have yet to evaluate it.
It is possible to use more than one cold blue on a job .. and the very most critical aspect is preparation, in particular TOTAL degreasing ... and keeping it that way.
Best way to try for first time is to practice on some bright steel or an old gun .. experimentation pays off handsomely.
It is possible to use more than one cold blue on a job .. and the very most critical aspect is preparation, in particular TOTAL degreasing ... and keeping it that way.
Best way to try for first time is to practice on some bright steel or an old gun .. experimentation pays off handsomely.
Brownells oxpo blue worked great, I used vey fine steel wool to apply it and I got 0 streaks, letting it sit overnight in oil. Any thing I should do to it befor I clean it and clp it, also will break free powder blast hurt my nice bluing job?
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Glad you got a pleasing result .... now just wipe with CLP cloth ... and treat it with some care. That finish will wear fast with abrasion .. well, friction on clothing, holsters, that kinda thing.
If tho it is treated well, it can last a long time ... just remember it is a very thin layer.
If tho it is treated well, it can last a long time ... just remember it is a very thin layer.
Walt Sherrill
Member
None of the cold blues are especially durable -- but you can improve both "cover"/streakiness and durability, but continuing to put on thin coats. Polish it betwee coats with steel wool. You can apply it with steel wool, too, but keep the steel wool ALMOST dry. I prefer cotton cleaning squares...
Oxpho-Blue goes on great with cleaning patches that are almost dry. (Be sure to pour out a portion of the chemical into a container before using it. ITs real easy to contaminate and kill the chemicals. a small cup or saucer, lined in Saran Wrap or aluminum foil should be OK. Steel wool, as noted -- but don't let anything directly touch the stuff still in the bottle.)
Oxpho-Blue goes on great with cleaning patches that are almost dry. (Be sure to pour out a portion of the chemical into a container before using it. ITs real easy to contaminate and kill the chemicals. a small cup or saucer, lined in Saran Wrap or aluminum foil should be OK. Steel wool, as noted -- but don't let anything directly touch the stuff still in the bottle.)
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