Difference between J C Higgins 30 and 31 models

[Sailct41]

Hi I need a little help. What is the actual difference between a J C Higgins model 30 and 31. I know that the 31 is for .22 short, .22, and .22 Long Rifle and the 30 is Long Rifle only but why. they look identical and it looks like I could take the trigger group out of my 30 and put it in my 31 that always has feeding problems but I don't want to break my model 30.

Any help would be appreciated.

Scott

 

[1KPerDay]

Dunno, but I personally would try it. Both should feed LR fine. Spring rates may be different, lifter may be different... and I'm not sure what else would be. IMO you're not going to BREAK anything by trying it out.

 

[JRH6856]

If you compare the parts lists and diagrams for the two models, there are differences, specifically in the bolt and cartridge lifter assemblies. I have seen some references saying the Model 30 was made by Stevens and the Model 31 by Hi-Standard. (the links are to the product manuals)

My father was was a buyer for Sears until he retired and I know that for some products, Sears licensed existing models to sell under their brand and for others, the licensed several sources to make the same product. I'm not sure which they did with the 30 and 31, but wouldn't be surprised if a new manfacturer suggested design changes that resulted in a new model number.

 

[Sailct41]

the carriage lifter is different and I noticed some cut outs in the top of the receiver where the bolt slides. the 30 seems to like Remington .22 ammo but I keep getting ignition failures out of my Winchester white box .22. The model 31 wont feed anything reliably but I think that might be due to a weak cartridge lifter spring. Maybe that will work. Other than that I am at my wits end with this rifle. I have had it to 4 different gun smiths but it still fails to feed reliably. Does any one know a gun smith that cut their teeth on these old rifles as it is a heirloom that I would like to shoot. I have many other .22s but the model 31 is the one where I shot my first squirrel in 1972 and the dang thing would not feed correctly then either!

 

[JRH6856]

Replacing the springs can do wonders for old guns that have been well used. I would think that would be the first thing a smith would do. If they didn't, that is the first thing I would do. (And even if they did, they may have used incorrectly rated springs.) Have you checked Numrich (gunparts.com) to see if they have springs available?

If not, I know someone who might be able to help but he is retired and I don' t know if he still has his FFL. Where are you located? (PM if you don't want to say publicly)

 

[Sailct41]

Lifter spring

I did order the spring from gunpartscorp so it should be here in a couple of days and I can try then. I am in Phoenix

 

[JRH6856]

Let us know if it works.

 

[John Stimson]

There are four different model 30's made by High Standard for Sears and there are four different model 31's made by High Standard for Sears. They all evolved from the first Model 30 design all are a little different and all have some common parts.

http://www.histandard.info/manuals/sears/rfrifles/index.html

John Stimson
www.histandard.info

 

[Sailct41]

Pressed Barrel Issue

Thank you guys for all the help. I don't know why I keep getting attracted to these old Sears guns but I do (the 31 has been in the family since the 50"s). In comparing the new model 30 and the old model 31 that as far as I know never chambered a round consistently (I remember in 1974 my father complaining that it never fed right). I noticed that the barrel in the 31 was sticking further into the receiver than the 30 by about .005. Now it is back to the gunsmith to see what can be done. I don't think that the manufacture will honor that warrantee after 70 years. the bright side about this entire saga is getting that new model 30 on gun broker. It shoots as nice as the hand me down 31 never did.

Changing out those springs really did help as now the 31 jams every 3 or four rounds instead of every time. The problem is the cartridge lifter lifts the round, but that soft nose would drag on the part of the barrel sticking out and then the bolt would come forward and slam the not quite into the chamber round into the front of the receiver. Hopefully he can fix this. I suspect that the .22 head spaces off of the rim. Anyway the ongoing saga of getting an old $100 rifle to work continues. Dang Family Heirloom!

 

[Hess's]

So did you ever get the model 31 working right? I am having the same problem with one I inherited and I was hoping that you will list the final results and remedy to the problem.

 

[Coyote3855]

I don't think he's posted here since may of 2014. You might send him a PM.

 

[Hess's]

OK, Thanks for the advice. But one would think that the guy would have posted the final results and not have dropped off the map. I guess I will try the PM option because I want to cut out as much trial and error as possible with the Model 31 I have. I just hope he responds.

 

[Jim K]

A general comment on model numbers. Very often a rifle made for all three .22 rounds (S, L, LR) uses either the LR twist or a compromise, where one made for .22 LR only uses the optimum twist for that round. Obviously, you can fire .22 S and .22 L in the LR "only" rifle, but accuracy may suffer.

Jim

 

[Jim Watson]

The usual twist for .22 LR is 16", there are a few 17" twists out there.
I have seen mention of both 20 and 24" for Shorts. Don't know what you would put in a dedicated Long shooter, if you wanted such a thing. Maybe check out an 1890 pump in Long Only.
So what would be a compromise?