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Drill sizes for loading blocks?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by madd0c, Dec 19, 2009.

  1. madd0c

    madd0c Well-Known Member

    I was wondering if there is a table or list somewhere that has the drill bit sizes needed for specific calibers to make loading blocks. The proper depth would be a bonus :)

    I searched out a thread on here that mentioned the correct size for .308 and that family, but was wondering if there was a more complete listing somewhere. Oh and for all the people that are going to try it anyway, yes I googled for the info and didnt find it on the first 50 or so pages. I googled "Drill bit sizes for loading blocks"

  2. tommyintx

    tommyintx Well-Known Member

    use a caliper on the head (or if belted, the belt..) and you'll know the diameter.. compare to drill bit.. depth is as deep as you are comfortable with..
  3. JimKirk

    JimKirk Well-Known Member

    Get a reloading manual, the good ones have drawings of cartridges with all the dimensions.
    Then look at a drill bit size chart, chose one at least one size bigger than case size. The depth of the hole is your choice, I like them deep enough to hold the case steady if you move the block, but not too deep as to make getting them out of the block difficult. I have some RCBS and I have some home made out of 1/4" Plexiglas, I like my home made best, they are only 1/4" deep(I do not move my blocks when I load)

    Jimmy K
  4. bullseye308

    bullseye308 Well-Known Member

    Well, I make them out of 1" boards and drill as deep as I can without going through except for the short cases. Mic the base of the cartridge and add 1/8th or even 1/16th to it. You kinda get a feel to it depending on what caliber and how deep you set it in the block.

    If you don't want to make your own look at my sig. I'll be happy to make them for you with some nice cherry or black walnut.
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2009
  5. mongoose33

    mongoose33 Well-Known Member

    I've both made my own as well as used the plastic blocks.

    If you have the bits, you should be able to drill some test holes and see what works. I agree w/ Bullseye that you want the holes to be 1/16 or 1/8 larger than the case--otherwise, you're spending a lot of time trying to fit the cases into the holes.

    Drilling into a block of wood works well if you have a drill press to control depth.

    An alternative I'll use next time since the hole bottoms turned out ragged for me, is to use a piece of 3/8 or 7/16 or 1/2" stock, drill the holes all the way through, and then glue it to another undrilled piece of stock. That way the hole bottoms are smooth, and you don't have to worry about depth because it's determined by the thickness of the stock.

    One other consideration is how easily you can grab cases in the middle of the block. You need a certain amount of space between them so as to allow for your fingers.
  6. bullseye308

    bullseye308 Well-Known Member

    You want to use forstner bits for nice flat bottom holes then chamfer the mouths. You could also use any old wood and drill through then glue a piece of brown hardboard to the bottom.

    Probable best if you just buy them from me made to your specs though. :neener: It's just easier. :evil:

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