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epoxy bed frizzen?

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by wisconsin, Jul 2, 2013.

  1. wisconsin

    wisconsin Well-Known Member

    Okay, im fairly new to BP but I spotted a tower .69 pistol at a garage sale for $50 and took a chance. Cleaned it, inspected it, and put a few rounds down range :cool:
    But the frizzen doesnt close all the way and there is no spring tension on it when it is closed. I dont feel like investing any money so I was wondering if it was possible to epoxy bed the frizzen to the pan (like a rifle action to a stock) and put a lump on the part where the frizzen should contact the spring, in order to keep it closed.

    I cant see anything wrong with this, but I figured I'd ask first

    Please and thankyou
  2. Acorn Mush

    Acorn Mush Well-Known Member

    Epoxies I'm familiar with usually soften up at 300 degrees F. or so because of the hot gasses jetting out of the touch hole. I'm guessing your "bedding" would turn into a mess in a few shots.

    You might have some luck building up the toe of the frizzen if you used a good-quality steel-impregnated epoxy, but even then I doubt it would be considered a permanent fix due to the shear forces encountered in opening and closing the frizzen. You would have a better chance if someone could add a little metal to the toe with a TIG welder, or even an oxy/aceteylene outfit.

    Prior to doing any work at all however, I recommend you completely disassemble the lock, clean and lube it, then reassemble and check the operation. If it still has the same maladies, then you can look at repair options.

    Hope this helps.
  3. wisconsin

    wisconsin Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I took it apart, cleaned, and lubed... Its just a crappy frizzen... TIG sounds good though
  4. Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave Well-Known Member

    You might want to look very hard at the spring, as on the less expensive, often Spanish made locks, the frizzen spring is wide, and the edges come to rest on the bridle of the pan, or sometimes they are too long and the tip of the spring rests on the pan itself. (The bridle is the outer portion of the pan where the frizzen screw passes through before going through the frizzen, and entering the lock.) So the end of the leaf spring cannot press upward on the cam, as it gets stopped by the bridle and/or the pan. You may be able to simply file the outer edge of the frizzen spring to thin it to match the width of the frizzen cam, and perhaps shorten it so it does not contact the pan, only the frizzen cam.

  5. wisconsin

    wisconsin Well-Known Member

    Hit the nail on the head. Honestly, I just figured it was supposed to be that way
  6. Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave Well-Known Member

    Kinda sorta, no. The frizzen cam really should not lose contact with the frizzen spring, and I think it would be good if say the frizzen screw broke, that the frizzen spring was stopped by something before it expanded upward to zero compression..., I'm betting that suddenly larger-than-normal range of motion on that inexpensive spring would crack or break the spring.

    But..., on them cheaper locks you might be able to remove just a fraction of the metal on the side, and perhaps on the tip, of the spring, to allow it to travel upward and continue to put pressure on the frizzen cam. You should still have enough spring length that if the frizzen wasn't present, the tip of the spring would contact and stop against the pan.


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