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Ever wonder how easy/hard it would be to shoot a padlock to get it open? Read this!

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by Rockrivr1, Dec 1, 2005.

  1. Rockrivr1

    Rockrivr1 Well-Known Member

  2. Mr_Moore

    Mr_Moore member

    saw that in another thread.

    It was pretty cool.
  3. Double Maduro

    Double Maduro Well-Known Member

    Everybody knows you don't shoot the lock, you shoot what the lock is attached too. Or you shoot the wood around the eyebolts. The lock is the strongest part.

  4. molonlabe

    molonlabe Well-Known Member

    When I win the lotto, I'm doing what he does....
  5. Darth Ruger

    Darth Ruger Well-Known Member

    I use a key. :D
  6. f4t9r

    f4t9r Well-Known Member

    I have tried that , its fun to shoot at
  7. Texas9

    Texas9 Well-Known Member

    That's just too cool. I need to retire, too!
  8. Highland Ranger

    Highland Ranger Well-Known Member

    Interesting - looks like energy rules . . .
  9. scubie02

    scubie02 Well-Known Member

    hmm, I dunno, I remember when I was a kid we shot a few master locks because of those adds they used to do. I don't remember what we shot them with, but I believe the rifle I had at the time was a marlin 336 in 35 rem, and my brother probably had his 30-30. The locks blew apart easily, and we were fairly unimpressed, as I recall, assuming the adds were just bs. Maybe the 35 remington is just the magic bullet or something...:scrutiny:
  10. drannor

    drannor Well-Known Member

    After a two hour drive into the country to do some shooting my friend realized she had forgotten the combination to the lock on her family's trail gate. The gate was secured to a wooden post via a linked metal chain and a series of combination and pad locks. (Big family!) .45 Ball out of my Kimber Goldmatch dented the lock casing and the bolt popped open. (Master brand dial combination lock)

    Have to admit it was a good feeling after being tormented by those @!#!@ things on lockers throughout Junior High and Highschool. :evil:
  11. ocmechanx

    ocmechanx New Member

    This could be the next tanerite test:cool:

  12. ny32182

    ny32182 Well-Known Member

    I shot a Master combination lock with a 16" Bushy once [from the back]... clean entrance hole in the rear plate, the dail was blown off the front, and there was a messier exit hole in the front plate under where the dial had been. Additionally, the bottom part of the shackle had been hit internally, so the lock opened by hand afterward. I couldn't find any jacket fragments or anything else that looked like pieces of bullet inside the lock, and I never found the dial.
  13. Creeping Incrementalism

    Creeping Incrementalism Well-Known Member

    I took a plain-vanilla dial-combo Masterlock that I had forgotton the combo to out into the woods once and blasted it with .22 LR from a rifle from about 15 feet. It took about a dozen hits before I could get the thing open, and by then it was really blown to smithereens.
  14. Highland Ranger

    Highland Ranger Well-Known Member

    There is a difference between a master padlock (or clone like what was shot in the link) and a master combination lock.

    In my mispent youth, we used to take a desk chair (high school) and use the metal leg to wack it right on the dial - popped open every time.

    Padlock like what is shown is much tougher . . . . .
  15. GRB

    GRB member

    If you have a key, fine use it; otherwise use a three foot long pair of bolt cutters with a strong pair of arms attached to them. Then again, if you shoot at a lock trying to bust it open - don't make the same mistake these gentlemen made. You can get some locks to open on the first shot, but not the way they were shooting. It is possible they could have opened each lock with one shot with any of the rifle ammo. Has anyone guessed their possible mistake?
  16. Czar

    Czar Well-Known Member

    Shoot the hasp (break it, not the lock)

    Shoot the body of the lock from the top. (Overload the pin securing the hasp in the locked position)

    Shoot the body of the lock from the side. (Dislodge the hasp)

    Bring a dremmel with a carbide side-cutting bit

    I would be more surprised than not if more of the pistol ammo wound't have worked with shots as I've described. Then again, I've been wrong before.
  17. GRB

    GRB member

    Close enough answer, part of it anyhow, to win the nickel cigar for Czar. They shot the lock dead center or pretty close to dead center. The problem with that is the bullets are likely hitting only the lock cylinder and not the actual mechanism, often a type of elongated bearing or a simple ball bearing or pair of them, that catches the indent(s) in the shackle. Therefore the bullet is smashing up the device that allows the lock to be locked or unlocked keeping yet the actual locking mechanism, those bearings, stay in place in the indent of the shackle. In fact it is possible the bullet would cause a forcing of it even more into a locked position because when you make the bullet hole, the bullet bullet/hole displaces material outward from its own center, that material pushes more on the ball bearing - the locking mechanism - which is being pushed more toward the indent in the shackle.

    If you shoot the lock more toward the side and near where the shackle enters the body of the lock, you have more of a chance of shooting it open because you are much more likely to shoot out, or displace, the bearing. Of course, it would be best to know on which side the shackle is shorter (the side which pops out when you open the lock with a key). If you shoot out the retaining mechanism of the shackle (the bearing), there is a good chance the lock will open.

    You could also aim at horizontal center but somewhat higher on the vertical line on some locks and possibly shoot them open. You would be hoping to hit the cam (or actuator) that turns and forces the retaining mechanism out toward the bolt and, that is released when you open the lock with a key. If you knock it out, voila, the lock will probably open or be so weakened that it will be easy to otherwise open.

    I am not saying this will work all the time, especially with just one shot but, there is much more a chance of shooting open a lock if you shoot it as described.

    Shooting the lock through the center (or through the key cylinder) is an old trick that was used by Master Lock many years ago on television commercials for one of their more inexpensive locks. They wanted to show how tough it was. If I recall correctly, that was a model of lock in which the shackle (upside down U bolt) did not even have an indent on it. (see the diagram - the indents on the shackle in this diagram were missing on the lock that Master Lock shot through yet it remained locked) That lock somehow clicked locked but was extremely easy to open if you used the right type of lever between the bolt and the lock body and then applied fairly little pressure - the lock would pop right open. Yet, you could shoot bullets through the middle of those locks all day long and they would not open simply because you were not hitting anything inside the lock that would make it open. Thius was demonstrated to me in some class I took many years ago either at an academy or in college (can you imagine something like that in college - John Jay College of Criminal Justice when justice still meant putting em behind bars).

    There is a good picture of a padlock components at this site http://keying.masterlock.com/pdf/7000-0031_Tech%20Manual_7-05.pdf (PDF format so you will need Adobe Reader). It is a fair representation of the most common types of padlocks (the second lock that is pictured not the first one). If you give it a good look you will see that when shooting just dead center, you are probably hitting the key cylinder.

    Of course, as was described in that article, use of a 12 gauge slug makes this whole discussion academic!

    As a warning, I do not recommend shooting locks because of possible ricochets, shrapnel and other splatter. I especially do not recommend shooting metal on metal at a range of, what was it, only 15 feet. That is outright negligent. Ten to fifteen yards would be much safer, and from a rest you would probably be able to hit the lock just as if at 15 feet. Even at the extended distance you can get hit by splatter or by sharp pieces of jacketing; I have been cut when shooting at steel plates from that farther distance.

    Good luck experimenting if you choose to do so. Make sure to wear a really good set of eye protection and then wear goggles over that.

    All the best,
  18. Feanaro

    Feanaro Well-Known Member

    A number of people are saying the Box 'o Truth fellow made a mistake in how he shot the lock. They might want to read the bottom of the page.

  19. rustymaggot

    rustymaggot Well-Known Member

    my dad used to tell me that the safest way to shoot off locks was to use a toilet plunger with the rifle. remove the stick and cut a hole on the center of the rubber cup. put the cup on the end of your rifle and press that against the lock. the rubber keeps most of the scrapnel from hitting you.

    my dad was a bad kid and he used to rob soda machines this way. shot the locks right apart.
  20. Ziryo

    Ziryo Active Member

    When I was in firefighter class we were taught to never open a lock with a pair of bolt cutters; on a..ermm...case hardened (I believe) lock they tended to damage if not break or destroy a set of bolt cutters.

    At the end of the year someone had forgotten the combination to their lock so our instructor sent a few of us to open it. The general consensus (I wasn't part of the group; I just went to watch) was to use the pair of bolt cutters.

    The bolt cutters were subsequently damaged and a fragment from it ricocheted around the room, but luckily no one was injured. The lock later removed with an oxygen-acetylone torch.

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