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Fast caliber changes with Hornady Powder Measure

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by GregDi, Jan 11, 2008.

  1. GregDi

    GregDi Member

    I'm a new user of the Hornady Lock n Load AP. I love it.

    I bought a pistol rotor along with the pistol micrometer. It's not difficult to record the numbers you have it set for a given load, and reset it, but are you guys buying multiple micrometers at $30 a pop for each load and keeping them setup with the dies?
  2. pinkymingeo

    pinkymingeo Well-Known Member

    I'm using the pistol rotor with the insert that came with it. Scored them, then used a permanent marker on the scores to give me an easy lineup. Made a chart with turns and fractions for the different powders I use. I find I can return to a setting very quickly, without spending a bunch of money. Works for me, anyway.
  3. GregDi

    GregDi Member

    I already have the micrometer which is already indexed. I didn't know if it was common to stockpile multiple meters so the fiddling was eliminated.
  4. Cloudpeak

    Cloudpeak Well-Known Member

    The old style powder measure had regular inserts and micrometer inserts. The regular inserts had no markings and friction was supplied by on "O" ring. These were sold with the idea that you would set them for a particular charge and change inserts for the loading you wanted. With the micrometers, you wroted down the index numbers so you could dial in whatever load you wanted. I'm cheap, so I stayed with the regular insert and just changed it when needed.

    Hornady now makes a new drum rotor system that is different than what I have on my press and I have no experience with it.

  5. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Well-Known Member

    One micrometer with pistol rotor, reset for each different die set or powder. Quicker than trying to read those little numbers and lines, just use your caliper to measure to the top of the insert and record the gap for each different use.
  6. berkbw

    berkbw Well-Known Member

    I have noticed that the volume/weight ratios seem to vary a LOT. Heavy loads - light loads - both may wake you up with a KB.

    If there are any powders that have a promised wt/vol ratio, please let me [and us] know. My advise is to go for wt. And respect both ends of the loadings.. Best to ya=

  7. jkr266

    jkr266 Member

    The micrometer die is meant to be used when working up loads, or on loads that you dont make much of. If you have a load that you make alot of and don't change very often, just buy a normal insert for 10$. thats what i do for my primary loads.

    berkbw: Each powder will have a different density, so a given volume will have a different weight. You can't use the hs-6 volume with tightgroup and get the same weight. If you change powders you need to start weighing again. At least thats the way i read your post. if on the other hand i am wrong, and you are getting wildly different powder weights when not changing the volume setting or the powder, something is off with your measure.
  8. GregDi

    GregDi Member


    I searched Midway high and low and did not see $10 pistol meter inserts. They are only selling the expensive micrometers. Maybe I'm missing them?

    I am aware of the powder volume differentials. That was not part of my question.
  9. IMtheNRA

    IMtheNRA Well-Known Member

  10. GregDi

    GregDi Member

    Thanks for the link.

    Does the standard insert work with the pistol rotor? I'm currently setup with the pistol rotor and pistol micrometer....I haven't even tried using the standard rotor since I'm only doing pistol loads on the machine at this point.

    From what I heard, the pistol rotor was the way to go with smaller loads.

    I'm dropping 5.0 gr of Unique for 9mm at this point since all of my recipes were my calibers used Titegroup and no one locally had TG in stock and I was all out of loaded rounds! Hate it when that happens.:barf:
  11. 1911NM

    1911NM Well-Known Member

    Pistol rotor is the way to go. I may have more time, or just be more obsessive, but I just use the one rotor and insert, dial up and scale check my load each time. Doesn't really take much longer than taking out the rotor, and changing inserts.

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