1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Grip Screw Bushings

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by macavada, Dec 16, 2004.

  1. macavada

    macavada Well-Known Member

    How do you get one off a grip screw? For some reason my grip screw seized with the bushing and unscrewed the bushing from the frame. I'm positive the screw didn't go in cross threaded. Any tips?
  2. Kruzr

    Kruzr Well-Known Member

    Put some blue loctite on the bushing threads and screw it and the grip screw back into the frame. Let it sit overnight and then unscrew the grip screw.
  3. Jim K

    Jim K Well-Known Member

    A simpler way might be to grip the bushing between two pennies in a vise or lockjaw pliers and unscrew the screw. Then reinstall the bushing and stake it as it should be.

  4. TarpleyG

    TarpleyG Well-Known Member

    I've done almost the same thing as Jim except I used a piece of leather and wrapped it on both sides of the bushing and clamped it in a vise.

  5. NMshooter

    NMshooter Well-Known Member

    It never hurts to keep a couple spares around either. Just in case... :eek:
  6. Bill Z

    Bill Z Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't fret the GS bushings too much. They are very inexpensive. I normally just use a pair of vice grips on the threads and unscrew the screw, then put a new bushing in after I clean it and the holes in the frame with acetone and use a dab of red locktite. Install a new screw and 'viola, your done. A pack of four each would run you about 6.00 or 8.00 tops and they are good to have around. This is actually something I do in a reliability tune up along with replacing or restaking the plunger tube. The factories don't pay enough attention to these areas on their best days.
  7. OzarkExpedition

    OzarkExpedition Active Member

    I have never taken a screw loose just to look at it. I may as well ask now so I will know. What is the size, length and TPI of a standard grip screw? I am just asking because $6 - $8 dollars for a set of these things is really high. I know that I can get socket head cap screws (grade 8 - really damn hard) for about $4 for a box of 50. I wouldnt think that button head cap screws would run much different. If someone wouldnt mind to post the size I would appreciate. Heck, you could even look here for a price on a box of the right size: http://www.mcmaster.com/
  8. macavada

    macavada Well-Known Member

    Thanks for all the responses. I'll get it figgered out with all the tips posted here. Didn't think about the leather or penny ideas for protecting the threads on the bushing. Thanks alot.
  9. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus


    I'e always thought that this particular little problem could be solved neatly by
    using left-hand threads in the frame and bushing OD...stake'em as usual...
    and don't use German Torque when the screws are installed. In the event
    that the screws take a set in the bushing, when ya back'em out, the bushings get tighter instead of breakin' the stake and backin' out.
    Seems simple to me anyway... :scrutiny:
  10. Jim K

    Jim K Well-Known Member

    Ozark, the standard M1911 grip screw is threaded .150"x50. The bushing thread is .236"x60.

    Guaranteed not available at your local Home Depot.

    Tuner, not a bad idea, except ... Years ago, some auto makers worried about wheel nuts coming loose from torque, so they put left-hand threads on the lugs and nuts on the left side of the car. All that happened was that people got a bigger wrench handle and twisted the lugs off. The same thing happened with Norwegian Krag barrels. I have seen two receivers twisted like pretzels because gunsmiths didn't know they have left-hand threads.

    In both cases, it was a neat solution to a non-problem and I think your idea falls into the same category ;). The real problem is that clone makers cheap out by not staking the bushings. (Or have I said words like that before?)

  11. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

    Lug Nuts

    Jim said:

    Tuner, not a bad idea, except ... Years ago, some auto makers worried about wheel nuts coming loose from torque, so they put left-hand threads on the lugs and nuts on the left side of the car.

    ROFL! Yeah...Ask me how I know about that little feature on Chryslers. :rolleyes: I snapped off two of'em on a '67 Plymouth Barracuda
    before I figured it out. :eek: Amazin' how far up the scale you can dial a
    pneumatic impact wrench...ain't it? :D

    I made a little tool out of a pair of vise grips just for that purpose. Poured a little bullet lead on the jaw faces and spread it smooth while it's hot. The lead grips the bushings without damage and lasts a good while before it gets too buggered up to grip. Quick to repair with another dab of hot lead and
    a putty knife.

Share This Page