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Handloading for the M-1 Garand

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by elktrout, Mar 5, 2009.

  1. elktrout

    elktrout Well-Known Member

    Are there any special requirements needed to handload for the Garand?

    Do you have to crimp the bullets in place? Any issues with primers? Any standard powders that should be avoided? I use IMR4350 for my bolt action 30-06, will that work good in the Garand?

    What about bullets? Any style/weight seem to work best for reliability?

  2. jpwilly

    jpwilly Well-Known Member

    Reloading for the M1 is rewarding. The Handloading section here has lots of info on the subject. In the end I chose to install a Schuster Gas Plug in my M1 allowing a broader range of powder options. Be sure primers are military or commercial with hard primer cups. Be sure primers are seated deep if the pimers are raised even flush you could get a slam fire.

    More good advise here:


  3. jlmurphy

    jlmurphy Well-Known Member

    I think 4350 is a little slow, 4895 or 4064 would be better.
  4. skidooman603

    skidooman603 Well-Known Member

    Add 748 powder
  5. skidooman603

    skidooman603 Well-Known Member

    Hornady reloading manual has a whole section on Garand loads
  6. Shung

    Shung Well-Known Member

    get hard primers
  7. USSR

    USSR Well-Known Member


    With sufficient neck tension, there is no need to crimp. Get yourself a primer pocket uniformer, and make sure your primer pockets are full depth. I suggest either CCI #34 or Winchester WLR primers. Use no bullet heavier than 180 grains. But, the most critical part of reloading for the Garand is the powder. The rule for atleast the last 50 years has been: no powder faster than IMR3031 or slower than IMR 4320. IMR4350 is too slow for the Garand. The problem with using too slow of a powder with the Garand is due to the port pressure restrictions of the design. Slow powder still have high pressure when the bullet passes the port, and this will bend your oprod in short order. Some of the suitable powders are (but not limited to): IMR3031, IMR4895, H4895, IMR4064, Varget, IMR4320, and RL15. Hope that helps.

  8. elktrout

    elktrout Well-Known Member

    USSR (Don) mentioned the CCI#34 and Win WLR primers. What other primers are "hard" primers that could be used?

    Also, do you guys recommend military brass? I was considering buying some from the CMP. I know military brass has a primer crimp that needs removed. Anything else?
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2009
  9. Slamfire

    Slamfire Well-Known Member

    A couple of points not mentioned.

    Buy a Wilson type headspace gage, set up your dies using the gages. Size your brass to gage minimum.

    I hand seat all primers and check to determine that no primer is above the case head.

    I seat bullets to LT 3.30. It does not hurt a thing to seat deeper. You just don't want those bullets tips so far out that they cause a jam.

    In a GI barrel, bullet jump does not make a difference on accuracy.

    CCI 200, standard LR have thick cups. Whatever you do, don't use Federal. They are the most slamfiring primer around.
  10. rscalzo

    rscalzo Well-Known Member

    Primers aren't really "hard" or "soft". They vary in sensitivity. Seating depth is one of the more important areas of concern. I use a Lyman primer pocket tool is make sure the pocket is clean and deep enough to allow proper seating. No problems to date. However, I use CCI 334 primers in my gas guns as an added measure. Unfortunatly they are getting hard to find.
  11. elktrout

    elktrout Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the feedback. Are Remington 9-1/2 LR primers OK?
  12. Steve in PA

    Steve in PA Well-Known Member

    IMR-4895, 150gr FMJ bullets and CCI 200 primers. Loaded and fired several thousand rounds.
  13. elktrout

    elktrout Well-Known Member

    Any suggestions where to find CCI#334 primers?

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