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HELP Yugo M24/47 Click NO Bang

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by KodeFore, Mar 10, 2008.

  1. KodeFore

    KodeFore Well-Known Member

    Strikes the primer, but just barely, small dent. I hoping there is an easy fix for this.

    Over the last few years I have been filling in the empty spaces in the safe with some inexpensive big 5 milsurp rifles. My first was a yugo M24/47 followed by a few Mosin nagants of diff flavors. I finally found a range within a reasonable distance and took them out for a spin. All the MNs functioned without a problem the Yugo M24/47 is the most expensive of the bunch but I tried about five rounds of of some New looking milsurp ammo with the same result. Click. Since the ammo appears in good shape and the primers are getting hit so I am thinking the firing pin is ok I am guessing its a spring someplace.

    Any suggestions?

    ( yes I waited between each round to ensure there were no hangfires )

    PS Can the steel cased ( green color ) cases be safely reloaded or just toss em?
  2. RugerBob

    RugerBob Well-Known Member

    I had the same thing happen to me with my yugo M48. I was using milsurp ammo. Same small dent in primer.No bang. Luckily I had some store bought ammo with me and it went off just fine. Maybe the primers are to hard ,or just some bad/old ammo. Try some store bought ammo and try it and go from there. Just my 2cents. Good luck, Bob
  3. Guntoter

    Guntoter Well-Known Member

    Could be a weak striker spring but if you didn't break the bolt down and clean out the cosmoline it might be that. One of mine was chock full as if it had been hand packed in and the others just had light oil. Found one M48 Yugo that was like that as well.
    Good Luck,
  4. BorisDaBastid

    BorisDaBastid Well-Known Member

    Aye, give it a *hardcore* cleaning. If that doesn't fix it, check spring, if that doesn't do the trick, visit a gunsmith for headspace check/correction.
  5. NC-Mike

    NC-Mike Well-Known Member

    This was a common problem with 50's Yugo ammo. Other mil-surp ammo had hard primers as well.

    Solution is as mentioned. Strip and clean the bolt and you can also get a new spring from Wolff. Should be good to go after that.

    And you should always check head space *before you shoot the gun*
  6. Lovesbeer99

    Lovesbeer99 Well-Known Member

    I'm guessing it's the ammo cause I had the same problem.

    Just a suggestion though since you brought it up. You can manipulate the bolt to expose the firing pin, then use a set of calibers to measure it. There is a min length for firing and a max length to prevent pierced primers. This web sight gives some explanations, but I can't verify he is an expert. You might also want to post on mausercentral.com.


    If you decide to sell it, please let me know.

  7. MilsurpShooter

    MilsurpShooter Well-Known Member

    Clean out the inside really good, old un-used bore brush that you don't use often will work well for this, or a long soak in some boiling water. If that doesn't fix it I think Wolf sells replacement Firing Springs. If that doesn't work... Well...

    Remember also, some milsurp has hard primers that were to be used in machine guns as well. Good luck
  8. nplant

    nplant Well-Known Member

    'Nother vote for the ammo. This assumes you've done YOUR duty to clean ALL of the cosmoline off the thing. That old Yugo 8mm ammo has some strange habit of not detonating all of the time. Usually, if you just open the action a little ways (not ejecting the round), the second time does the trick. Usually.

    You also may have a bad gun, so it couldn't hurt to have a gunsmith check the headspace and firing pin for damage.
  9. jonnyc

    jonnyc Well-Known Member

    As I posted elsewhere:
    I had the same problem with my 24/47. Make sure to set the safety at the middle setting. Unscrew the two big parts of the bolt. Soak a bit in hot/boiling water. Spray the crap out with a can of carb cleaner. Scrub and wipe. Lube and reassemble.
    After the above, any problem is ammo-related.
  10. JonB

    JonB Well-Known Member

    I have a ton of 50's Yugo ammo and have about 2 out of 10 that don't fire the first time.
  11. Mauserguy

    Mauserguy Well-Known Member

    It's common among Yugo Mausers for there to be a build up of cosmolene in the bolt body. When the firing pin falls, it falls on a cushion of grease, not striking the primers hard enough. Clean out the bolt body before changing your ammo.
  12. KodeFore

    KodeFore Well-Known Member


    OK. I took the Bolt apart and sure enough it was full of Cosmo thick as molasses. I attacked it with rags patches q tips carb cleaner wire brushes & rem oil. Fortunately nothing looks broke. Next chance I get to take it to the range I will also try pick some diff ammo as well

    Thanks for all tips ( carb cleaner works great )
  13. Smokey Joe

    Smokey Joe Well-Known Member


    Kode Fore--You also asked in yr OP re: Reloading steel-cased ammo. It's been tried, successfully, by several who reported success on this and other boards.

    The steel of the cases is much tougher than the usual brass cases, and therefore will be harder on yr reloading equipment, as well as requiring more arm work on yr part. And of course lubing the cases will be even more crucial than usual.

    The consensus seems to be that while it can be done, since there is perfectly good brass available, it's not worth the extra hassle. There are some few (I consider them just stubborn, or perhaps penny-wise and pound-foolish) who insist that they successfully load, and reload, steel cases. OK I guess, fine for them.

    Steel is less springy than brass, too, so there might be issues with the sealing of the chamber by the steel cases, as the round is fired.

    Used range-pick-up 8mm isn't that common. Me, I'd buy some commercial ammo and shoot and reload that, and buy some brand-new brass and load that up too. With mid-range as opposed to heavy loads, and only neck-sizing after the first FL sizing, the brass will last you nearly forever, therefore costing little enough to quite justify the added expense.

    Of course, if you DO find some free range 8mm brass, so much the better! :)
  14. LiquidTension

    LiquidTension Well-Known Member

    To really get that cosmoline out of the bolt, disassemble it all the way and boil the parts. Soaking in gasoline also works well. To get the gunk out of the stock, put it in the dishwasher.
  15. KodeFore

    KodeFore Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the reload advice Smokey. Mostly I just reload 38 for inexpensive practice Looks like I will save any steel cases I come across for a rainy day, but since preloaded ammo is not expensive and I tend not to shoot long gun much I"ll just stick to the bought stuff for now. Hopefully now that the gunk is out of the bolt the thing will actually shoot.
  16. MRIman

    MRIman Well-Known Member

    What kind of ammo?
    I've got 1938 Turk ammo that looks new!!!!
    Always clean all parts of any old gun.
    This is a must if your going to play with mil surps!!!!
    I get first "shot dudes" with 50's Yugo ammo.
    They most always fire the second time.

  17. esmith

    esmith Well-Known Member

    Same problem with my turkish mauser using the same ammo. I just re cocked it and shot it off, nothing bad happened. Some people say not to do this however, i have yet to see any real proof that something bad can happen.
  18. Mike 56

    Mike 56 Well-Known Member

  19. rr2241tx

    rr2241tx Well-Known Member

    Making 8x57 from M2 ball and reloading Berdan primed steel cases is a total waste of your life. Buy some Hirtenberger Patronen from Samco, save the excellent Boxer primed brass and make your own from then on if you want to. Even with their new price and shipping Hirtenberger is 1/3rd the price of empty brass or domestic commercial rounds, 1/2 the price of Wolf Gold/Prvi Partizan.

    Inspect the tip of your firing pin. Some moron had broken the tip of mine off in the stock bolt wrench hole. Decock the bolt and measure pin protrusion, it should be about 0.060", much less and it won't work on hard primers, much more and you will be testing the gas deflection abilities of the 1898 bolt design.
  20. Smokey Joe

    Smokey Joe Well-Known Member

    Another problem with steel...

    Kode Four--Ewww, another problem I never even considered with the steel cases: As RR stated, they may be Berdan primed.
    I must agree. Add to all the extra hassles of steel case reloading, the added hassles of depriming and repriming Berdan cases--not to mention just getting the Berdan primers--and it adds up to a complete DON'T BOTHER, IT'S NOT WORTH IT.

    Berdan priming was invented by Mr. Berdan, an American, and not accepted here, so he took it to Europe, where it was accepted. The same thing in reverse happened to Mr. Boxer, an Englishman, whose primers we embraced on this side of the pond. Berdan primed cases CAN be deprimed, but it takes special equipment to do it. And I understand it's a hassle. The replacement Berdan primers are a different diameter and construction from our standard Boxer primers, and are hard to find and pricey. You can't simply substitute common Boxer primers for the Berdans.

    Modern European sporting ammo is now largely Boxer-primed, also, just because of the ease of reloading. But the foreign milsurp stuff, and the older ammo, often has Berdan primers.

    Telling the difference between Berdan-primed cases and Boxer-primed cases: Use a strong light source, and look down into the case. A Berdan-primed case will have 2, or rarely 3 off-center, small holes for the primer flash to come through to ignite the powder. A Boxer-primed case will have one much larger central flash hole (through which the decapping pin easily deprimes the case when reloading.) If what you have is Berdan-primed steel cases, after firing them, the best thing to do is recycle them.

    If you had some rare cartridge with unusual, very very expensive ammo, and you had brass Berdan cases to work with, it might be economical to reload it. But 8x57 JS ain't that.

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