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How do I began reloading???

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Greg8098, Nov 11, 2006.

  1. Greg8098

    Greg8098 Well-Known Member

    I know that if you don't do a lot of shooting that reloading doesn't really save you any money. I am considering it because I own a couple of 10mm Glocks, and want to make sure that I can always have access to the real " full power" ammo. I love DoubleTap, but who knows how long these places really last? I don't need a really elaborate set-up, just something to churn out about 100 rounds every now and then. I really need help on this issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  2. capbuster

    capbuster Well-Known Member

    do a search on this forum about getting started in reloading and you should find a wealth of information.loading your own ammo is not a hard task but it requires your attention to maintain quality and safety. read up on the subject and if possible find a local you trust who can give you some hands on experience with subervision.this forum is a good sounding board for any problems you may encounter. You can even email some of us if the need arises. a good loading manual as offered by such companies as lyman,rcbs,speer,and hornady to name a few will help you with your loads and give you insight as to equipment you will need to make your own ammo.most reloaders will add equipment as they get more into it but basically you will need a good single stage press,dies for the caliber you wish to reload, a powder measure and a powder scale,and components such as bullets,cases,powder,and primers. a good case gage as sold by dillon is cheap and will give you something to check your reloads by.some folks take their pistols apart and use the chamber of the barrel as a gage.
  3. DaveInFloweryBranchGA

    DaveInFloweryBranchGA Well-Known Member


    Buy a copy of ABC's of reloading and read it. Then, based on the volume you want, I'm thinking the Lee Classic Cast Turret would be an ideal setup for you. You'd want to get the press, the Safety prime, the Pro Auto Disk measure, the powder measure riser, a powder scale, a reloading manual and dies. Other fellas can chime in with other things you might want.


  4. stoky

    stoky Well-Known Member

    Start out with a single stage press. If you later decide to get a progressive, the single press will still be handy to have around.
    Starting with a kit such as the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit will simplify things. With this kit the only additional things you would need to get started are a dial or digital measuring caliper, dies and consumable components.
    Carbide dies are well worth the additional expense.
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2006
  5. The Bushmaster

    The Bushmaster Well-Known Member

    Manuals, manuals, manuals...Read, read, read...Ask questions. Lots of them. The manuals will give you an idea what products and equipment that will fit your needs. Everyone on this site and others are predjudice, including me.;)
  6. lee n. field

    lee n. field Well-Known Member

    Flip through the handloading subforum. This question gets asked a lot.

    "100 rounds every now and then" sounds like a perfect fit for a basic single stage press kit. But first, read a book.
  7. Greg8098

    Greg8098 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the advice everybody, I'll began my research today. Hope this process isn't as complicated as it sounds :eek: .
  8. ranger53

    ranger53 Well-Known Member

    Besides a couple or three good reloading manuals, go to midwayusa.com and order you some caliber specific loadbooks. They only run about 6 or 7 dollars apiece. They have every conceivable bullet and powder work-up. I really like 'em:D
  9. P0832177

    P0832177 member

    Your first step is buying the best reference book or what I call Reloading for Dummies or The ABC's of Reloading from Krause Publications.

    There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Paperback manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman48th and Sierra. One must always look at the loads when you compare data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information.

    Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for press types.

    Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal N. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used.

    Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge.

    A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors.

    MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges.

    Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing.

    Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases

    Dial Calipers

    Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer)

    Deburring/Chamfering Tool

    Primer Pocket Cleaner and uniformer

    Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon.

    Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best)

    Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale.

    Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget.

    Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges )

    Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard!

    Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's)

    Ammo boxes and labels

    A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice!

    A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.
  10. Ol` Joe

    Ol` Joe Well-Known Member

    I`d look on the shelf at your local gun shop for this stuff, and look at reloading more as haveing access to a good supply of target/practice ammo. With out a way to measure pressure you will never know for sure what you are shooting in reguards to your loads, and store bought is a better way to go for defence anyway if that is your goal. I look at my reloading goal as #1 keep it safe and then I worry about velocity/ power factors, ect.

    I`d look at "The ABC`s of Reloading", Lymans #48, or the Hodgdon manual for good books on reloading. Sierra and the NRA have reloading vidios available but I haven`t seen them so I won`t recommend one. They may also be a good way to go though if you want to pick one up. The local gun clubs or shops might have classes on reloading if you ask or give you the name of someone who will instruct you.
  11. dmftoy1

    dmftoy1 Well-Known Member

    Definately do your reading but don't be intimidated by all this stuff. I'm not sure exactly where you're located, but I'd recommend seeing if there's someone nearby who's already loading who you can watch go through the process. I'm one of those people who learn better by seeing and can then apply what I'm seeing to what I've read . . . . (IMHO reloading is not all that complex, the key is to know the danger area's that you need to keep an eye out for so you don't make a squib or double charge)

    Just my .02

    Have a good one,
  12. robctwo

    robctwo Well-Known Member

    Used book shops around here have lots of older reloading manuals for very little cash.

    There is a lot to learn, but really we are just putting a primer in a case, putting in some powder, seating a bullet and crimping it in place. I don't want to give the impression that there is nothing to it, but it's not like trying to rebuild an engine. A good understanding of the principles from reading. Good basic equipment. A local mentor if available and you are good to go.

    I started out in late 2003 with a friend who bought a Lee Loadmaster. I bought a Hornady Lock n Load in early 2004. I didn't reload for about 11 months due to a move. I've loaded over 33,000 rounds. Some squibs, no double charges. If you are going to miss, leave yourself as safe as possible.

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