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How do I make my Ruger mk II run?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by atek3, Oct 18, 2006.

  1. atek3

    atek3 Well-Known Member

    I've cleaned it, I've lubed it, I've tried different ammo, but still I get FTE's... Maybe a mag issue? maybe a brand of ammo I haven't tried? any recommendations before I dump it?

  2. MatthewVanitas

    MatthewVanitas Well-Known Member

    Have you tried using a new Ruger magazine?

    After cleaning and ammo selection, that'd be the obvious culprit.

    What kind of FTEs are you seeing? Are they partially extracting but not ejecting, or are they sticking in the chamber? Might be a gungy chamber that needs more than standard cleaning. Or might need a new extractor.

    Don't let a fluke turn you off of the MkII; they're outstanding pistols, but like with any product it's possible to get a random lemon.

  3. XavierBreath

    XavierBreath Well-Known Member

    FTE.........do you mean failure to extract or failure to eject?

    Be aware that some new MKIIs will take 500 to 1000 rounds to break in to where they will not have failure to extract issues.

    Failure to eject issues are addressed here. Have you tried multiple magazines?

    I have good results lubing the bolt and action of MKIIs with powdered graphite. What did you use for lube?
  4. Brian Williams

    Brian Williams Moderator Emeritus

    Ruger had a bunch of SS MkIIs that had bad bolts, I called them and told them the problem and Ruger sent me a new bolt, even though I got the gun used. They also have a problem with the mag catch on the heel type.
  5. XavierBreath

    XavierBreath Well-Known Member

    I didn't know that! Did they give a serial range?
  6. Chuckulator

    Chuckulator Well-Known Member

    My mark II extracts fine when firing, but when I just try to clear the chamber by racking the slide, it takes several attempts. It seems like the extractor misses the cartridge. Kind of scary the first time I thought I had cleared the chamber but couldn't find the bullet - it was still there.
  7. atek3

    atek3 Well-Known Member

    failure to eject, normally a pretty nasty jam.

  8. XavierBreath

    XavierBreath Well-Known Member

    Failures to eject on a MKII can be caused by underpowered ammunition, or a sluggish bolt. The bolt on the MKII pistol should easily retract once the initial spring pressure is overcome. Crud/gunk in the spring and in the interior of the bolt can cause sluggishness. Ejection force is dependent on the speed the bolt travels.

    Stovepipe type jams that are from an ejected shell stuck between the recoil spring guide rod and the chambering round are almost always a fault of the magazine. The cure can be found at the link I provided above. A bent recoil spring guide can also cause stovepipe jams. It does not take much of a bend.

    Sometimes a MKII will have a loose ejector. If so, ejection can be sporadic and weak.

    I hope you get it ironed out.
  9. Shear_stress

    Shear_stress Well-Known Member

  10. XavierBreath

    XavierBreath Well-Known Member

    Oh, one other thing..........Ruger has a history of repairing their firearms free of charge, and getting it absolutely right the first time. They even honor this policy on used guns that are ten years old.

    If you cannot straighten things out, contact Ruger. They will make it right.
  11. atek3

    atek3 Well-Known Member

    awesome, what a fantastic thread...
  12. History Prof

    History Prof Well-Known Member

    Did you buy this used or NIB? If used, did you confirm that the mags are MkII? MkI mags can be made to fit in a MkII, but do not function properly.
  13. jaybar

    jaybar Well-Known Member

    Magazine(s) problem most likely

    This is usually indicative of the magazine(s) sitting a little too high in the gun. When this condition exists, the rim of the shell hits the lips of the mag, knocking it loose before the ejector can do its job. You can adjust the mag lips, adjust the mag catch, adjust the bottom of the mag or a combination of both to cure the problem. Follow this link http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/stovepipe.htm for a pretty good disertation on the problem and how to cure it.
  14. TimboKhan

    TimboKhan Moderator

    I am no gunsmith, but if it is an extractor issue, it should be relatively easy and cheap to fix. I have never had to fiddle with mine, and thus have no clue as to how difficult it is to replace an extractor on a MkII or III, but I have replaced extractors on a couple of other guns pretty easily. I think the most it has ever cost was around 10 bucks. But, like I say, I have never had the problem and have thus never looked into cost. For all I know, MkIII extractors cost many tens of dollars.
  15. 280PLUS

    280PLUS Well-Known Member

    I've found that if the mag doesn't hold the top round firmly in place ( to where you can flop the round nose up and down in there) you will get jams galore. The cure was to close the gap between the two little tabs that hold the nose of the round EVENLY and not TOO tightly. There should be the same spacing of the tab to the round on either side. When loading the mag the round should slip in there with slight resistance and not need to be forced. Forcing means it's too tight. Hope this helps.
  16. liberalgunnut

    liberalgunnut Well-Known Member

    thanks 280... I'm having the same problem as atek... I replaced my bolt spring and have cleaned all my mags spotless. I'm heading to the range in a about an hour and will see if this solves the problem. I was using CCI Green Tag and standard velocity (same problem), my local gunsmith recommended that I give some higher velocity ammo a whirl so I got some Federal Premium.

    I have noticed that some of the mags hold the round lower in the mag and some stick it right up there... is there a preferred position for the round? if there is, is there somewhere I can find a photo of that? I have also noticed that my grip screws, if they are too tight can impact the magazine position or scrap on it... so I've backed those off.

    thanks again.
  17. 280PLUS

    280PLUS Well-Known Member

    I'm sorry I don't have pics. But I can tell you all I shoot out of mine is CCI Standard Velocity and I rarely have a problem so I doubt it has anything to do with underpowered rounds. The top round should fit just snugly in place and the nose being able to move only slightly up and down. It should be just below and directly in between the tabs. If it looks high I'd guess the tabs were a bit too loose and if you have to use any force at all to get the rounds in then you've gone too tight, back them out a hair. They should feed into the mag easily but not be loose. Wish I could look at them for you(s). :D
  18. liberalgunnut

    liberalgunnut Well-Known Member

    I'm heading to the range soon... My guess is that the problem mags are too tight. I'll bring my pliers. :)

    I'm relatively new to this, picking it up to cure an archery addition:) Glad to hear that someone is not telling me what an idiot I am for shooting CCI :eek: I shot other stuff and felt that this was the most reliable practice ammo (i'm getting 3/4" groupings at 50' braced) I didn't notice much improvement with the green tag. I'm hoping that the spring solves some of the issue.

    btw... thanks!
  19. liberalgunnut

    liberalgunnut Well-Known Member

    FYI - My jamming problem was reduced greatly as a result of changing my bolt spring (4 jams in 100 rounds)... and eliminated by switching to Federal ammo (0 jams in 160 rounds). Both the standard and the premium seemed to work great.
  20. LiquidTension

    LiquidTension Well-Known Member

    When I got my MkII I had extraction problems just like atek describes when using cheap bulk ammo. I switched to CCI Minimags and it cut the failure rate dramatically. After probably a thousand rounds or so, malfunctions dwindled in number to zero and I tried cheap ammo again. Now the gun runs flawlessly with whatever I use in it. I guess there were some rough edges or something that have been smoothed out with use. My Marlin 60s are another story :banghead:

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