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how do I remove an idiot mark?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by glassman, Sep 4, 2010.

  1. glassman

    glassman Well-Known Member

    I have a stainless DW pointman that I put an idiot mark on. This happened some time ago and it really ticked me off when it happened. In my denial, I chalked it up to "character" but I still get angry at myself every time I see it. How can I erase the mark without further damaging it?
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  2. The Lone Haranguer

    The Lone Haranguer Well-Known Member

    It could be polished out, but the entire frame would have to be done as it would then be obvious that you attempted to polish it in that one spot, which would look worse than the scratch. Unless it is really deep/long and/or extends up onto the slide:eek:, I think I would just live with it. Personally, I think "idiot mark" is a bit harsh, anyway.

    I've thought of using some sort of shield between the frame and slide stop when you swing and push it up into place. Perhaps some brass shim stock or similar material (be sure to deburr the edges) would work. I've read of people using playing cards, but these can be cut through, I would think.
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2010
  3. glassman

    glassman Well-Known Member

    It's not that deep(really just a scratch), maybe an inch long and restricted to the frame. It just makes me sad that I blemmed such a nice gun. The up side is that it has made me hyper vigilant when putting any gun back together after cleaning. Lesson learned.
  4. LSCurrier

    LSCurrier Well-Known Member

    Do a search on this website and you will find many postings telling how to do this. Most suggest using "Scotch-Brite" products of one type or another and using it on the area of interest in the direction of the grain of the metal.

    I own a stainless Springfield Loaded that I stupidly put an "idiot mark" on. I searched for the postings, as I suggested to you, and found a few with good details and now my handgun no longer has an "idiot mark". :)

  5. AK103K

    AK103K Well-Known Member

    Is it polished stainless, or matte?

    Either way you can strip the frame and slide, as well as a couple of small parts that show, like the hammer, safety, slide stop, etc, and have them bead blasted. Comes out a nice matte finish.

    This is an old Colt that I did. When I got it, it was polished on the "flats", but had a lot of little nicks and scratches on it. It also had the mark of the idiot on it.

  6. 9mmepiphany

    9mmepiphany Moderator

    Try the Scotchbrite pad first, be sure to detail strip the frame before you start, and see if you can blend it in.

    Bead blasting will definitely work for an even finish over the whole frame...that is what I've seen done to a Sig 220ST and an X-Five that turned out very nice.

    No need for a brass shield to prevent further idiot marks, just use a business card
  7. AK103K

    AK103K Well-Known Member

    You really dont need anything to prevent the mark, just the right tecnique.

    All you do, is when you initially slip the slide stop in when reassembling the gun, you do so with it hanging down into the trigger guard so it isnt contacting anything. Once youre sure the pin is in the link, you lift it back up slightly, so the back side of it wont drag across the frame as you sweep it up, then sweep it up to the plunger, drop it back, then push it home. If you do it this way, no more idiot marks. :)
  8. Guns and more

    Guns and more member

    The first time I took down my Springfield Micro, the slide release would NOT go back no matter what. I should have tried the card trick, but the first time you don't know it will leave a scratch.
    I pushed and pushed, no luck. Finally, I got it to slide in, bingo, scratch.
    Rather than calling it an "idiot mark", better would be to call it a "design flaw mark."
  9. oasis618

    oasis618 Well-Known Member

    If it is stainless just use a tiny piece of the finest sandpaper you can find and only go in one direction, not back and forth. I did this on one of mine and the scratch completely disappeared. If you go back and forth as you would normally sand something, you will see the marks changing directions on your gun and that would be no good. Good luck!
  10. Zerodefect

    Zerodefect Well-Known Member

    That scratch gives you an excuse to run that gun hard now. Get a hundred more scratches, then refinish her in Hard Hat, IOn Bond, Etc.

    Until then shoot her and have fun.
  11. Buck Snort

    Buck Snort Well-Known Member

    This is why God, in his infinite wisdom, gave us the Dremel too with the polish head.
  12. gwnorth

    gwnorth Well-Known Member

    If it's not very deep, a little Flitz polish, a soft cloth and a few minutes of your time will either take it right out, or reduce it sufficiently that it will be much less noticeable.
  13. Jolly Rogers

    Jolly Rogers Well-Known Member

    No Dremel. Too localized and wrong pattern to the scratches if you are talking about a stainless gun. It will remove the scratch pattern of the finish and show up as a bright spot. Scotch brite in line with the grain. Don't go back and forth as the squiggles will show. One direction lift and repeat. Use a tool to back off the plunger and hold it out of the way when you insert the slide stop if it is a Springfield. DAMHIKT.
  14. HuntAndFish

    HuntAndFish Well-Known Member

    Masking tape and Gun Kote.
  15. gym

    gym member

    just a little goes a long way. I have removed scratches from every metal you can think of with this, just be careful, use a dot and do it with a clean soft rag, you can always do more. It even took the scratches out of my stainless refrigerator, sink etc. My seacamp looks better than new, and every gun that wasn't really gashed, came out like new. I have been using this german stuff for a good 10-12 years, it's available on ebay, or from the manufacturer.
  16. Guns and more

    Guns and more member

    If I can't get the slide release back in period, how am I going to get in in with a tool in the way. When I scratched mine, I would have sworn the plunger was incapable of moving. I guess there is a spring in there, but you could fool me.
  17. 918v

    918v Well-Known Member

    You could take a clothespin, break it, tape on some 400 grit sandpaper using double-sided tape, and polish it out.
  18. AK103K

    AK103K Well-Known Member

    Some guns are easier than others, and some respond better to a specific technique to get it back in.

    The part that gets you the mark, is pushing the stop across the frame on the way up to the plunger. Its what you shouldn't do, but seems to be the natural thing to do. If you dont want the mark, skip the urge to drag the stop across the frame trying to power it in.

    When you get the stop to the point that its against the plunger, and it wont go, or it goes enough that it catches in the slot in the stop, then a small, jewelers type screwdriver, or something small/thin and flat, that can depress the plunger as you put some pressure on the stop, will allow the stop to go in.
  19. Jolly Rogers

    Jolly Rogers Well-Known Member

    Thanks AK ;)
  20. bluetopper

    bluetopper Well-Known Member

    It's toast now. You might as well drag in down the street for a ways.:banghead::p:)

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