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How should I clean an M&P?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by jawman, Feb 4, 2013.

  1. jawman

    jawman Well-Known Member

    Hi everyone.

    I currently own a Sig P226, and will soon be the owner of an M&P9C and an M&P40 fullsize. Unlike my Sig which has a steel slide on a steel frame, the M&P has a steel slide on a polymer frame, so I'm not sure how that changes things when cleaning and lubing.

    For example, currently when I clean and lube my P226, I use Magnalube PTFE grease and I grease the rails as outlined in this link: http://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/

    However, the M&P has a polymer frame and a steel slide, so how should I clean and lube when dealing with polymer? These will be my first polymer pistols. Is it okay to use Hoppes #9 on polymer? Should I continue to grease the rails or should I only use oil? Help!
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  2. cfullgraf

    cfullgraf Well-Known Member

    On the S&W M&Ps there is a steel chassis inside the polymer grip. So the slide rides on steel rails.
  3. Fred_G

    Fred_G Well-Known Member

    Hoppes gets along with polymer. The slide will mate with metal on the polymer lower. I think once you have it in hand and field strip it, you will see what to do.

    I love my M&P 9C.
  4. bds

    bds Well-Known Member

    M&Ps are stainless steel with Melonite surface hardening treatment (similar to Glock's Tenifer process which is not used for models made in the USA).

    Similar to cleaning and lubing Glocks, I separate the slide from the frame and remove the barrel/recoil spring assembly to field strip. I use Hoppes #9 solvent/copper bore brush/detail brush to clean the fouling and apply Breakfree CLP on 4 slide rails and the striker release point on the frame. After reassembly, I cycle the slide several times and lock the slide back and apply one drop of Breakfree on top of the barrel where it makes contact with the slide and cycle the slide a few more times. I wipe off any excess lube.

    For me, M&Ps have worked well even dirty. I shoot jacketed/plated/lead reloads and if I don't have enough time for a detailed cleaning, I will just clean the barrel/check any fouling build up by the extractor and wipe off any loose fouling with a paper towel and lube before reassembly.
  5. Backpacker33

    Backpacker33 Well-Known Member

    I'll echo "bds."
    We have a son who is a LEO, issued 9mm S&W M&P. He, and I, clean it just like bds sez. I reload all types of bullets, too, and usually leave mine dirty, but well lubed. No problems!
  6. JTQ

    JTQ Well-Known Member

    Yes, your M&P will have a steel slide running on steel rails. Conversely, your SIG most likely had a steel slide running on aluminum rails.

    Here is how Hickok45 cleans an lube's his Glock with Ballistol. It is simply a CLP product, there are a bunch of quality CLPs available. You can use just about anything you want.

    Last edited: Feb 5, 2013
  7. RON in PA

    RON in PA Well-Known Member

    Read the section in the M&P owner's manual that pertains to cleaning and lubing the gun. All you need is CLP.
  8. ku4hx

    ku4hx Well-Known Member

    If you're missing a manual you can likely get it here:
  9. PoPo22

    PoPo22 Well-Known Member

    Just try not to "overthink" the issue, if you put as much lube on it as you did your "full metal" pistol then you have in all likelyhood exceeded what is "necessary". That will not hurt it or normally cause any functioning issues but it may simply be "overkill".

    I am a "1911" guy from many years back and still prefer it and love the design (carried one "on-duty" for many years). About 2 years ago our dept. decided that they needed to dictate exactly what weapons we carried and chose to issue M&P's. The M&P's are fine weapons and are almost "stupid proof", so unless you are putting too much oil in the sear area I don't think you can go wrong.

    Sorry, my point is that when we spoke with the S&W rep's they advised that the weapon is designed to be functional with minimal cleaning and with minimal lube, so you almost "can't" screw it up. Don't "overthink" it, just have fun and enjoy it. Good Luck
  10. col_temp

    col_temp Well-Known Member

    From experience PoPo22 is right.
    M&P like to be lubricated. But do not overdue it! A light spray or the drops as suggested is good enough.

    Now if we were talking about the M&P 22 it's a different story. Those need to be welll lubbed.
  11. HKGuns

    HKGuns Well-Known Member

    As you would any other pistol, with solvent and a brush.
  12. jawman

    jawman Well-Known Member

    Thanks troll.
  13. HKGuns

    HKGuns Well-Known Member

    Troll? Coming from Chicago? Get some time in life and on this forum before throwing out insults.
  14. ku4hx

    ku4hx Well-Known Member

    +1 Well said.
  15. Inebriated

    Inebriated Well-Known Member

    Excellent way to get assistance.
  16. jawman

    jawman Well-Known Member

    What does where I currently live (not even from Chicago) have anything to do with it? That's pretty myopic. I'm sorry if I offended you but I thought you were just trying to be a smart ass. Well apparently I was wrong. My apologies. But you have to concede that your post was pretty obvious and "duh" and not of much help based on the question and details that pertained to it (just look at the other replies vs. yours). Obviously, solvent and a brush are going to be used in the cleaning process, but my question was more than just that.

    Not even going to bother with this one.
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2013
  17. Recon Ron

    Recon Ron Active Member

    Hoppe's is fine on my 40FS and some days I'll grease other days I'll oil, its all good.
  18. danoam

    danoam Well-Known Member

    I use Hoppes or clp on mine. For clp I like G96 just because of its smell. I put a small drop of oil on each of the four rails and then reassemble.

    Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

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