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how to fix the wiggle in single action grip panels

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by west.22, Sep 3, 2011.

  1. west.22

    west.22 Well-Known Member

    I have a new bisley vaquero that came with the sim ivory grip panels, they were to slippery for my liking so i bought some wood ones. they work great but they have a little wiggle (front to back) if pressed on firmly. Does anyone know of a good fix for that? thanks

    Attached Files:

  2. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    Sounds like the locater pin holes are drilled in the wrong place to push them up into firm contact with the frame.

    Brownell's Acraglas bedding kit would be what I would recommend.
    Glass bed the suckers to the grip frame at the top scalloped & flat edges and they won't move again, unless you want them too.

  3. west.22

    west.22 Well-Known Member

    thanks for the quick reply, i will try that.
  4. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Well-Known Member

    On the bottom of the grip frame you should notice a pin, and a hole in each grip panel that matches it. The problem is that the hole is apparently oversized, so the panels can shift.

    Get some Epoxie cement. Then coat the frame area around the pin with several coats of a good paste wax (Johnson's Floor Wax for example). You can't use too much wax, but use too little and the panel will be literally glued to the grip frame.

    Working with one panel at a time, fill the hole about 1/2 full with mixed epoxie, and the put the panel (held upside down) on the grip frame and move the grip to exactly where you want it.

    Watch the remainder of the mixed glue, and when it's semi-hard reach through the grip frame from the other side and tap the panel off. Set it aside so the Epoxie can fully cure.

    Then repeat with the other side.

    Brownells Acraglas is better then ordinary Epoxie glue, but it's also more expensive. If money isn't a consideration follow remodel's advise.

    Last edited: Sep 3, 2011
  5. murf

    murf Well-Known Member

    try elmers glue.

  6. west.22

    west.22 Well-Known Member

    since i don't have the acraglas i will try the epoxy first. thanks for the advice Old Fuff
  7. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Well-Known Member

    Whatever you decide, remember two things:

    1. You only need a little of filler in the hole, so don't over do it, or you'll have goo all over the grips and grip frame.

    2. You can't use too much wax or release agent. When you're done just hand buff it.
  8. SAA

    SAA Well-Known Member

    You may even have to open the hole up a little first to get the stock to move tight into the corner as well, then epoxy it to fill the "unwanted" areas.
  9. Mizar

    Mizar Well-Known Member

    Simple lithium grease works very well as a release agent, but it will soak into the grips if they aren't varnished on the inside.

  10. west.22

    west.22 Well-Known Member

    will remington dry lube work?
  11. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Well-Known Member

    I have no idea, as I never tried it. But you can always experiment on something worthless before you go to the real thing. ;)
  12. BCRider

    BCRider Well-Known Member

    Paste wax is a well proven option. I'd suggest you stick with it. If you have to buy some then don't despair. It lasts for decades in the tin and comes in handy for a lot of other uses in home repairs or just for buffing up oil finished stocks to a nice warm sheen. Heck, you can even use it to polish furniture and floors! ! ! ! :D Yeah, yeah, I know I'm a jokster :D

    DItto on the advice to check the fit as noted by SAA above. The hole may well be a great fit to the pin but it's not quite in the exact right place. You may need to chew it out a little to allow the upper corner of the grips to move fully into the corner of the frame for that perfect fit.

    My only other advice is related to how long to wait with the epoxy. If you're using the 5 minute stuff, which would work just fine, you'll want to wait until the excess glue left on the mixing board is fully hard but still will dent from moderate fingernail pressure. The excess on the mixing board will cure slightly faster than the glue in the hole because of the bigger mass of glue and not being in contact with metal that pulls away the heat. Epoxy generates heat as it cures so a bigger mass will cure faster. And if you have to err one way or the other it's best to err on the side of the glue in the hole being too hard than too soft. If too soft it'll just tear out and you need to start over. If too hard it may try to pull out the pin but if that happens you can just grab the pin with some pliers and with a twist and pull it'll come out.

    One last thing. Don't try to mix up too small a batch or you can run into troubles with the glue portions being mismatched. If epoxy isn't mixed to the exact ratio it won't cure properly. So with 5 minute getting very nearly even amounts is important. Even though you only need a tiny dab you'll want to dispense two 1/2 to 3/4 inch long identical "worms" of glue from the tubes or bottles for mixing. I know it seems like a waste but it's the "cost" of getting the mixture correct.

    And as noted by Old Fuff be sure to only do one panel at a time since you'll need to tap the panel loose from through the frame. Do both at once and you'll likely do a lot of damage to the wood panels prying them off the pins.

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