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Hydrogen Peroxide and corrosive ammo

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by Sky, May 23, 2011.

  1. Sky

    Sky Well-Known Member

    I had just gotten back to the states and went to pick up my Norinco sks which arrived they day I left country.

    I have wanted an SKS or 7.62 x 39 type rifle for a long time I was very pleased with the wood and metal of this gun. Looked like it had very few rounds through it and the wood was clean with very few packing bruises. The trigger had no creep and was very crisp!! Surprise!

    I had figured since I am tall the stock would not fit my reach but surprise (again) the cheek weld was good and the rifle just plain fit my stance....maybe I have shrunk?

    The only ammo available was some brass corrosive primer ammo so I grabbed 15 rounds and went to the range. The first 3 shots were all on line but missing the 12" steel plates set at 100 yards by a few inches high. I went one click up on the rear sight and then hit the plates with the remaining rounds. I was very please with the sound of the rounds hitting the steel and honestly surprised with the recoil and ease of placing hits on target.:D

    Now here are the questions great SKS Guru of the THR; I was told someplace at one time after shooting corrosive primed ammo that one should run a patch or plug soaked with Hydrogen Peroxide down the bore to remove the residue and then I could use my Breakfree CLP for the final cleaning. It is not necessary if you have a chrome lined barrel ( which mine is ) but ( why not ) the peroxide will bubble and fizz and remove all particulate matter so why not clean it this way anyway?

    On the way back home I stopped at Walmart and they had large bottles of Peroxide on sale for $1 (fate, destiny, cosmic alignment?) so I purchased one and used it to clean the rifle bore. Simple, and the final patches came out perfectly clean even though soaked with the CLP. During the cleaning process I did not hear or see any fizzing but was really more interested in the mechanics of cleaning than using my ears for the fizz! Never having used Peroxide for cleaning a bore and kinda worried about hydrogen embrittlement yes I know about dissimilar metal but not peroxide used for cleaning.....Is there a chemist in the house??

    I was going to shoot the thing and then trick it out but jeez I may just keep it the way it is after changing the firing pin for a Murray? I do have the new receiver cover with the see through scope rings made by UTG but have not installed the cover or scoped the rifle; Tapco intrafusion rifle stock around here someplace but I have not done any mods, just cleaned it.

    Anyone tried the Tapco stock or the UTG receiver cover with the 1" scope rings? Thought it would be nice and easy to remove the old cover and use a low power scope with the UTG cover. Quick change back to original cover if I want to. The sole purpose of this rifle is day light pig popping at ranges of less than 200 yards.

    I can get some pretty good deals on corrosive brass ammo or just purchase Silverbear which is not corrosive? Thoughts on or experience with either type ammo appreciated along with cleaning info as described above. I have used the Silverbear 5.56 without problems but the brass stuff sure is purdy. Thanks
  2. hanno

    hanno Well-Known Member

    Plain old water works fine for cleaning after corrosive ammo. Wet a couple of patches and run them down the bore. Wipe off the chamber area with another wet patch and follow up with some CLP.

    The Brits had a special funnel for the Enfield rifles. When I was shooting a lot of corrosive .303, I took a thermos of hot water and my funnel to the range with me. As soon as I was done shooting, the funnel went in the chamber and the water was poured down the bore. I used a wet patch to wipe down the bolt face and chamber area. This was followed by a Bore-Snake with a few drops of CLP. I never had any problems with rust.
  3. Sky

    Sky Well-Known Member

    hahahaha hanno that sounds to easy!!
  4. hanno

    hanno Well-Known Member

    It is easy. Hot soapy water is best. Some folks use Windex.

    I just liked doing it the way the Brits did it.

  5. effengee

    effengee Well-Known Member

    I use ammonia...

    Plain old ammonia/water mix in a squirt bottle, mix 25/75 to clean both my SMLE and my son's 91/30 whenever we shoot corrosive ammo.
    Then clean and oil as normal. I don't like windex as it has additives like dye.

    The Brits used to remove the bolt and urinate down the action and barrel.
    Try doing that at your range:eek:
    Last edited: May 24, 2011
  6. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Well-Known Member

    Drugstore hydrogen peroxide is 3% H2O2, balance H2O.
    Water has always been good for corrosive primer cleanup.
    There can be no "hydrogen embrittlement" because there is no free hydrogen. The bubbles when peroxide breaks down are oxygen.

    There are brave people who will use the stronger hairdresser's peroxide and vinegar to remove copper and lead fouling.
  7. Just One Shot

    Just One Shot Well-Known Member

    I never used anything on my AK other than Hoppe's #9 and followed it up with my normal lube. Never saw any indications of rust. The main thing is that you do it immediatly after you get home from shooting it.
  8. mgmorden

    mgmorden Well-Known Member

    Not saying it might not be true, but from where I'm sitting that has "urban legend" written all over it ;).
  9. Sky

    Sky Well-Known Member

    There were times when urine was used on wounds when nothing else was available!! Think that ended right after aids or women said Yuk or something!! I have always had an aversion to water and firearms maybe it is genetic but if I had to I would not be adverse to the urine down the barrel thing.

    I love the Britts they were always bound by tradition and have a make due kinda way of doing things because they were usually under manned and supplied.

    Stiff upper lip is to hide no teeth!

    Joke joke some of my fondest memories are with Britts and yes most have teeth.

    The water thing is good to know though and when I work my way through the Peroxide I may try it in a pinch!
  10. HOWARD J

    HOWARD J Well-Known Member

    At one time I used a lot of Chinese steel-core (banned) corrosive ammo.
    I cleaned it at the range with Windex.
    I don't use it anymore--a lot of reloads.
    The kids (mid 40's) still use some of it on their AK's & they only clean with Hoppes # 9.
    They use a lot of Wolf ammo.
    My oldest picked up an el-cheapo AK--I could not believe how accurate that thing is.----------:eek:
  11. woad_yurt

    woad_yurt Well-Known Member

    Hydrogen peroxide does remove lead fouling by turning it into lead oxide but it will also eat steel by oxidation when used this way.

    A while back, I got hammered here for suggesting using it to remove leading. To see for myself, I put a piece of old shotgun barrel in a cup of common, brown-bottle hydrogen peroxide for a couple of days and it did eat up the steel. Quite a bit, actually.

    Also, the stronger the solution one uses, the quicker it'll eat up your gun.

    Ammonia, a weak base, neutralizes the acidity in corrosive ammo residue. Windex is the way to go.
    Last edited: May 23, 2011
  12. Sky

    Sky Well-Known Member

    Humm windex........ woad yurt thanks for the info and the test guess the Peroxide will go in the ears or something??
  13. highlander 5

    highlander 5 Well-Known Member

    one of my former co workers took a 45/70 case drilled,tapped it and attached a length of tygon tubing so he could clean out the black powder residue from his BP rifle. As I recall he used Windex with ammonia d mixed with water. 3 parts water 1 part Windex as I recall.
  14. esque

    esque Well-Known Member

    At the end of my shooting sessions using corrosive ammo,
    i run off 1 or 2 rounds of non-corrosive, seems to help blast/burn
    out residual salts.
    +1 on the water/Windex flush, followed by normal cleaning
    with Hoppe's #9.
    AS for the stock change, the Tapco is a good choice.
    For scope mounts, the consensus is that the receiver cover
    mounts will not maintain zero in the long run. There are a couple
    of mounts that work quite well, both are drill & tap, the Choate
    and the Weaver #48881 Converta-Mount. The Weaver is a shotgun
    mount but is easily modified to fit the SKS.
  15. Dr.Rob

    Dr.Rob Moderator Staff Member

    I never heard of using peroxide. Windex was always a 'stop gap' measure until you could do a proper cleaning.
  16. jawn

    jawn Well-Known Member

    I use a 1:9 mixture of Ballistol and water, applied generously.
  17. Zoogster

    Zoogster Well-Known Member

    Never use hydrogen peroxide, that is one of the worst things you could do, as the primary action of hydrogen peroxide is to oxidate. That is how it disinfects, it oxidates.

    What happens when you oxidate steel? You get rust or iron oxide.
  18. Sky

    Sky Well-Known Member

    Funny how you hear things from people who you would think would know something! There is mucho misinformation about just about any topic you can think of. I am going to tear down the SKS tomorrow and let all the metal soak in gas or solvent or soapy water then do a super clean up on all parts and lube. I ordered 1120 brass rounds of 7.62 x 39 for less than $190 from aimsurplus. It is corrosive but I am not going to worry about it.

    The UTG scope mount I had wondered about being secure and letting the scope maintain zero but for $15 I figured it was at least worth a shot!? To make then fit many have to file down the front ears so if I do install the mount I will try to make a tight secure fit and see how it goes.

    Was busy today and did nothing with the SKS other than walk by it a few times.

    Really do appreciate the comments and info on the peroxide and cleaning with water.
  19. Owen Sparks

    Owen Sparks member

    If you use water to clean a firearm make sure it is really HOT so that the metal gets warm enough to dry itself in spots you might miss with a rag. I once had a 1911 slip out of a holster in a swamp. It was so full of mud and crap that I just ran hot water on it to get all the gunk out before going any further. The metal got pretty warm and to my amazment the parts were almost all dry by the time I got it apart. I used an air compressor to blow water out of small areas like the extractor channel and the main spring housing but most major componants like the barrel and frame were completly dry.
  20. GBExpat

    GBExpat Well-Known Member

    The "corrosive" chlorate-primer residue that can bring harm to your steel is potassium chloride (akin to table salt). It is very hygroscopic, which is why water (or something water-based) is the most efficient approach to removing it.

    By itself, potassium chloride is harmless to steel ... but it will attract water from the atmosphere (if available) and begin a rustfest.

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