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K Frame hammers?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by BP44, Dec 11, 2012.

  1. BP44

    BP44 Well-Known Member

    I am looking for a hammer for my model 19, the previous owner bobbed it and although it works great I would prefer a spur. My question is are they as scarce as hens teeth or is my google Fu just that weak? Do any of you folks have a source for them?

    Thanks for your time.
  2. 788Ham

    788Ham Well-Known Member

    Try Numrich, they usually have about any and everything. I didn't promise now!! Good luck
  3. BYJO4

    BYJO4 Well-Known Member

    You can also call around to various gunsmiths in your area. They usually have all types of parts sitting in drawers.
  4. BP44

    BP44 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the tip on numrich's I will check them out tonight. I checked my local gunsmith "only one within 100 miles or so" and he is fresh out at the moment. Thanks for the ideas and help fellas
  5. evan price

    evan price Well-Known Member

    Gunbroker and eBay are good sources.

    I bought a hammer/trigger/rebound/cyl stop for a Model 10 off of Gunbroker for about $50 plus another $6 ship. Even had nice case colors.
    I know there's people selling complete stripped K-frame part sets for reasonable prices- everything but the frame.
  6. oneounceload

    oneounceload member

    I'll ask the obvious - have you also tried S&W? They might still have oaerts as that was one of their more popular models
  7. Water-Man

    Water-Man Well-Known Member

    When your GS told you he was 'fresh out', you could have asked him where he got his parts.
  8. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Well-Known Member

    With the exception of rim-fire revolvers, K-frame hammers are interchangeable between models. So for example a hammer made for models 10, 14, 15, etc. would work in a model 19. However this might not be true on a drop-in basis.
  9. DPris

    DPris Well-Known Member

    And I wouldn't waste money on a used one. They're individually fit & may not work in your gun.
  10. Old Fuff

    Old Fuff Well-Known Member

    Yes and no... :confused:

    At S&W they usually didn't do any fitting in the conventional meaning of the word because both the hammer and trigger were case hardened. The final assembler wound insert a hamer and trigger in the frame and check to see how they interfaced. If they didn't he would remove one of the two and replace it with a different one. On a rare occasion they might exchange both. This procedure was called, "selective fitting."

    However the little lever in the front of the hammer (called a "sear") was individually fitted to work with the selected trigger, and this is primarily the reason that dropping in a used hammer may not work.

    Given the way things were done it is possible that a new hammer might not work, but the chance it will is strongly in your favor. Not so the sear.

    The ideal way is to be able to return a hammer - new or used - if it doesn't fit and you have not altered it. Used sears are generally not expensive, but having been fit to work with another trigger makes them very "if'y." If possible, always buy an extra new sear anytime you buy a hammer.
  11. BP44

    BP44 Well-Known Member

    Wow, thanks for the help gentlemen. Lots of good ideas here. And to awnser a few I did ask my gunsmith where he sourced the hammers &triggers from and got erhhh,emmerfff. Which i believe is old grumpy man for dosnt remember. I haven't called smith and wesson yet:rolleyes: seems like an obvious answer and I will give em a buzz tomorrow. I don't mind buying used as I have a k frame jig and the stones to do the work. I have a few sears as old fluff suggested from past ventures but have never needed them, I have them though and might need them this time.
    Thanks again fellas.
  12. DPris

    DPris Well-Known Member

    When I went through a Smith LE armorer's course in the 80s, we learned to fit hammers & triggers.
    It was not like later Colts where you just kept on running through the parts bins till you found a couple that mated. :)

    Yes, the case hardening is relatively thin, but you do polish it in doing a good trigger job & it's quite possible to get a smooth surface and/or fit the two parts together without getting down into the softer metal.

    I acquired a bag of Smith hammers some time back, they were all take-offs that I actually bought for the firing pins. My S&W certified gunsmith took a look to see if there were any of the hammers he might be interested in having as spares & turned 'em all down.
    Won't touch a previously fitted hammer or trigger.
  13. MrBorland

    MrBorland Moderator

    I'm going with Old Fuff on this one - a replacement hammer assembly, used or NOS, isn't likely to be a drop-in part, though the hammer itself is.

    The sear is likely to be the fly in the ointment, and it's what'll likely need fitting. If previously fitted to another gun, the sear may need to be replaced with a new one, then fitted.

    Fitting a DA sear isn't all that tough if you're patient, careful, and understand how all the parts ought to work together. Otherwise, let a 'smith do it (make sure they have the aforementioned talents, though ;)).
  14. Try MidwayUsa.

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