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Lee Pro1000 questions?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by BENELLIMONTE, Jan 9, 2008.



    Just picked a LNIB Lee Pro 1000 in 45ACP for $50.00. Anybody have experience with this press? Any quirks I should know about?
  2. FieroCDSP

    FieroCDSP New Member

    check the indexing gear. From what I've heard on here, the main reason anyone gets rid of a Pro1000 is because they strip the indexer. It's a couple of bucks (if that) and most people get a few to keep around as spares. Other than that, they seem to have a decent following of users.

    Oh, yeah... www.leeprecision.com

    Set-up videos (also check YouTube), instructions, email-help, and parts listings.
  3. rrflyer

    rrflyer New Member

    Biggest things is to make sure that primer feed is kept full. Thats the only time l get problems with it is if you get less than about 10 primers in there. Itll probably take a tap from you every 5 or 10 rounds in case the primers get bungled up in the tray and dont drop down.

    Dunno if you've reloaded before but before you put the case feeder on there run just one case at a time to get a feel for the primer seating before you start running progessivly.

    Other than that just make sure its mounted to sturdy bench and have at it.

    Heres some good info

    The videos on the lee website do a good job of explaining how to set up the press. The only thing that really needs set up is the powder measure and thats pretty simple.

    Other things you might eventually want for the press are the case collater. I still haven't bought it yet but reloading those case tubes seems to be the only thing that slows you down.

    The bullet feeder I've heard mixed reviews on and probably wouldn't spend the money.


    Thanks for the advice.:)
  5. Barr

    Barr New Member

    Be sure to keep any spilled powder out of the primer feed trough. Spilled powder can stop up the primer feed. Keep the primer tray topped off. As with all progressive presses, be sure to keep an eye on the powder measure level.
  6. TexasSkyhawk

    TexasSkyhawk Internet SEAL

    Having loaded on a Lee Pro1000 for years and years, I'll second all the advice given up above. I'll double-second the advice about loading one cartridge at a time until you get comfortable with the progression and "feel" of how the press operates, especially when it comes to seating the primers.

    Going "single round" will also allow you to fine-tune everything for optimal performance.

    The case collator is worth whatever it cost thesedays. I bought mine the minute I saw it introduced. Can't imagine loading cases without it, and daring to remember how it was before I bought it keeps me awake at night.


  7. lee n. field

    lee n. field New Member

    Very good price. Only about twice the price of the Lee .45 die set.

    I've had mine for all of a couple months. Take the advice for what it's worth.

    I don't use the case feeder (now, I may try it someday). I've removed the case slider, so everything both putting in a new cartridge at the first station, and checking powder charge and setting a bullet in the case mouth at the last station, are done at the same time. I find it's easier to concentrate on procedure that way.

    Priming's the touchiest thing. Slick up the primer tray and feed with a bit of graphite. Keep an eye on the primer feed. You'll be able to see the train of primers advance. You'll be able to feel the primer seat.

    Oh, yeah. When you've got the shellplate off to change to a different one, don't turn over the shellplate holder.
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2008
  8. ZXD9

    ZXD9 New Member

    Don't bother with a bullet feeder. Mine broke after maybe 1000 rounds. Others have had problems too. Placing bullets manually also give me a chance to verify powder in the case.
  9. ForneyRider

    ForneyRider New Member

    +1. Feeding bullets manually give you a chance to check the charge.

    I use the Pro 1000 for .41magnum. Very fast to me. I can run out of components very quickly with it.

    Videos helped a lot. Running some brass through with dry run is good idea.

    I use can of compressed air, and a paper clip to keep the primers going and powder cleared out.

    Lee book can help. Lots of info and load data.

    I use Federal primers in my press. Mr. Lee mentions several times not to use Federal. But rumor is that he is on warpath with Federal.

    Keep it clean and clear. Use dry lube on moving pieces. I use the Hornady One Shot.

    Powder through expander, Lee Prime, Lee auto disk, are all great.
  10. evan price

    evan price Active Member

    I keep a can of dry silicone spray handy. I spray the finished round chute with it and wipe it with a clean cloth. I also polished the finished round chute with some scotchbrite to smooth it out. That and the silicon spray ended the tendancy for finished rounds to lay on the chute.
    I also spray the silicone spray on the moving parts: the hex-shaft that indexes the shellplate, the ram, the upright where the primer rod rubs. Sllicks everything up.

    Make sure your timing indexes perfect or you might get sideways primers. You adjust that with the phillips screw under the carrier.

    The case collator came with my press, and I wouldn't want to load with the tubes without it. I just take a grocery store scoop, load cases into the collator, shake jiggle and rattle, let the tubes fill up, and leave a scoop of extras in the funnel to refill the tubes while I work.

    If you mount your Pro-1000 "permanantly" to a table or bench (whatever), a good piece of advice is to take a hole saw and cut a hole in the surface under the press. Then take a peanut butter jar, drill a similar sized hole in the lid, glue/rivit/ the lid to the underside of the tabletop lining up to the hole. Then screw the jar onto the lid. Viola, instant primer catcher, and you don't have to unbolt the press to clean up the primers that build up under the press.
  11. UnderDawgAl

    UnderDawgAl New Member

    All good advice, fellas. I'm also new on the Pro1000. I'm loading .38 Spl wadcutters with a light Bullseye charge.

    Following someone else's advice on here, I resize, deprime, and reprime separately. Then, on the P1K, I put the expander and Auto Disk (old, smoky gray one) on stage one, the bullet seater on stage two, and the FCD on stage three. I've weighed numerous powder charges, and they've all been spot on.

    Do any of you "trust" the Auto Disk and start cranking out rounds? I'm slow on the machine, checking every round for powder (to avoid squibs) and weighing about every 5th charge (with no discernible variance, I might add).

    If I get brave enough one day, I'll set up the P1K as intended and actually reprime on the press as designed; then I'll stick the FCD on a separate press and run 'em through at the end.
  12. herohog

    herohog New Member

    I've got 2 of them and they are great. My 1st loader was the Lee Challenger and I still have and use it. ALL the advise above is good. If you have issues with the primer, get a hand-primer and break up the decapping and priming process from the rest of the steps. I have every priming device Lee makes and, for reliability, the hand unit is my #1 but boy does my thumb get sore sometimes! :eek:

    Here is a 15 or so year pic of my old loading bench setup...


    I'd take a pic of my current setup but it is so cluttered and dirty I just can't. :rolleyes: Maybe I'll get it in shape this weekend.

    Oh yeah, back to the loader... get some spare turret heads! I use 2 heads on mine just to my 9mm WinMag loads and have another head set up for .45 on the second press. If I had another head, I'd keep it set up for my .38 Special!
  13. rrflyer

    rrflyer New Member

    When i sit down after not relaoding for a while I usually throw a few charges to check for measure. Then about 1 in 10 for the first 50 or so then about 1 in 25 or 1 in 50...maybe.

    I do have a table light that I put facing down on the open casing so I can look at the powder and make sure its not double charged or a squib.
  14. ForneyRider

    ForneyRider New Member

    I started with a min. load of H110, did no-cross check with scale, and checked each round for a charge.

    I moved up to max load (compressed) and still check each round.

    I have since moved back to somewhere between max and min looking for most accurate.

    Squibs suck. I've only had one, from some purchased reloads. My loads are better.

    I have Lee scale(part of breech lock kit) on order as well as more turrets for the Pro 1000. I am much more comfortable now after 3 50-round batches and several small batches than when I was starting out.

    I plan on keeping the "powder charge check" a habit.

    I am alright with having to "tap" the disk setup for specific powders/charges.

    It's fun so I take my time. Not sure if I like reloading or shooting more. I know I like eating more than I like cooking. :)
  15. ma96782

    ma96782 New Member

    IMHO........here are my tips for the LEE M1000 (it's like the Pro1000):

    1. Mount your press on a sturdy bench.

    2. Keep your press clean....free of spilled powder or primer residue....not to mention grit.

    3. Lube the moving parts.

    4. Now, is also a good time to tighten up loose nuts.

    5. Keep the primer tray loaded up w/ primers........don't let the feed trough get half way empty..........gravity helps to keep the primers moving downhill. Re-fill the tray with only 50 primers at a time. The primer will seat.....as the handle is going up.....shell plate coming down.......you'll have to get to learn, "the feel of it."

    6. Keep powder in the hopper..........make sure the powder isn't clumped and "bridging."

    7. Keep brass in the magazine tubes........and don’t forget to turn to the next tube, when needed.

    8. Bullets go on....one at a time.....have a good supply close by.

    9. Use full, smooth and complete strokes. Unless there is a "good reason to".......don't go partial way and change directions......it'll ^%$& things up.

    10. If and when you do ^%$& thing up.......remove the problem shells, make sure to check the indexing and primer feed area for a jammed primer. Clean off any powder spills or primer dust. Set the problem shells to the side........work on them "later." Before continuing with production.....try the press w/o shells to check the indexing.

    11. After 1000s of rounds.........if you're having indexing problems..........you may need to change out those plastic cams.........change both of them, rather than one at a time.

    BTW, I own (3) three LEE M1000s, one for each caliber: 9mm, .38 Special/.357 mag., and .45 ACP. I find it easier to use for pistol ammo, then my Dillon. This way, all I have to do is change the press on the bench, instead of messing with powder adjustments, primer feeds, dies, shell plates, etc.

    Your mileage will vary.

    Aloha, Mark

    PS.........Safety glasses.......and avoid distractions.

  16. ForneyRider

    ForneyRider New Member

    Use dry lube on the press piston. I use Hornady One Shot.

    Keep the powder hopper full.

    Keep the primer tray full.

    Keep the whole press clean.

    Use clean brass. Even though the manuf's say carbide dies do not need lube, lube anyways. Lee lube is nice but stinks. Must be fish based.

    prior to each batch, check all adjustments.



    Thanks for the info. It sounds like there will be a learning curve to using this thing.
  18. Beowolf1911

    Beowolf1911 New Member

    I took off the case slider and load them by hand, this slows you down but you have time to notice when something goes wrong, and it will. The unit is sensitive to temperature, I have my two in my shed and I have noticed the primers do not like to load on a cold day. They are a great deal though and once you ge tthe hang of them, which requires reading the manual a few times you crank out ammo very fast. Two of my friends and I split the price of a nice set up with two lee Pro100's so two of the three of us can be working at any time.

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