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LNL Powder varies

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Wilburt, Feb 2, 2008.

  1. Wilburt

    Wilburt Well-Known Member

    I just got the press after loading on a rock chucker for a while. i cleaned out the hornady lnl powder measure with rubbing alchol and let dry. i am trying to use VVN310 and this is what i get. The charge varies between 3.8 gr and 4.5 gr. I don't know what could make it throw charges that far off. using the satndard insert that came with it.
  2. Luggernut

    Luggernut Well-Known Member

    Pistol insert is the way to go. I've never used it with VVN310 but use W231 all the time and it's just fine.
  3. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Well-Known Member

    Yep, for throws under 10gr you need the pistol insert for reliability. It also doesn't hurt to buy or make a baffle. I just use a couple of fender washers on top of the powder. Rarely see a .1 variation with a variety of powders.
  4. IMtheNRA

    IMtheNRA Well-Known Member

    Same experience here. Winchester-231 or Hodgdon H-110 metered with +/- .3 grain errors! I just got the pistol rotor and micrometer insert, but I'm still playing with rifle rounds.
  5. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Feb 2, 2008
  6. Wilburt

    Wilburt Well-Known Member

    thanks. for the time being i put my old rcbs hopper to load until it get fixed. it's still throwing great with it's micro meter adj.
  7. pinkymingeo

    pinkymingeo Well-Known Member

    Clean it with brake cleaner. Much more effective than alcohol. Then run some powdered graphite through. You shouldn't be getting noticeable variations.
  8. Shoney

    Shoney Well-Known Member

    Just to double check your cleaning procedure, did yoou completely disassemble it?

    The Hornady manual states that all the moving parts of the powder measure must be diasembled, cleaned, then dry lubricated. Alcohols, either methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, or combinations thereof, are not good solvents of oils. Hornady recomends
    I used brake cleaner on all metal parts, and used a spray silicone dry lube, then graphited all moving parts.

    From the Hornady Manual
    During the winter, static electricity is more easily built up on the measure, use a SLIGHTLY damp cloth on the outside of the entire measure then rub it down with used static remover sheets from your clothes drying.

    I have Lyman, Dillon, and RCBS measures in addition to the LNL. The
    RCBS and LNL are most accurate, and the LNL with micrometer pistol insert may be a little better overall.
  9. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    You need a Baffle, the Hornady measure is innaccurate without a baffle, failing that you need to keep the powder at the same level with frequent refilling.

    I had the pistol rotor, It was even worse than the rifle rotor, because the hole in it is so small you will suffer bridging. I had problems with 1+ grain varriation in W231, trailboss, Universla,titegroup, and unique. With the larger flake powders I had squibb loads (caught before firing).
  10. Bowfishrp

    Bowfishrp Well-Known Member

    I had the same problem using Titegroup. However, I got the pistol insert and even got the micro meter for it and it is almost perfect every time!

    I use Titegroup and Longshot and am getting it to drop perfectly! I have noticed after a 150 rounds that I need to fill it back up that that is where a baffle might work even better. I had no problems with rifle powder loads.
  11. Wilburt

    Wilburt Well-Known Member

    I did disasemble it but only used alchohol. I guess i will do it again with brake cleaner. I ordered the pistol rotor and micrometer insert. Hopefully tat will help. The Baffle.... um not sure what that is.
  12. bigbird1

    bigbird1 Well-Known Member

    I had to take mine apart and clean it with b clean to get it right, if you don't clean it it won't throw , also keep the b clean off the plastic tube it will turn it white. once it is clean you can't beat the consonancy of the hornady.
  13. PsychoKnight

    PsychoKnight Well-Known Member

    When the measure is full of powder, there is significantly more weight pressing down and compressing the powder going into the measuring cavity than when the measure is nearly empty. To prevent variations in density, we install something to block the weight of the powder. The fender washer is a good idea. Get the largest size which will fit inside the powder measure, with a 5/16 or 1/2" hole, and just drop it into the bottom of the measure. You can also just cut a round disc shape from a heavy duty cardboard box, cut a 1/2" hole in it and shove it to the bottom of the measure. I found that the soft plastic cap from a plastic jar of toothpicks was just the right size, and I used the hornady drain tube to die-cut a hole in the middle of it. You can use just about anything. If you truly lack creativity, look up an RCBS Powder Measure Baffle, and you'll see what it looks like. The advantage of its shape is that when you drain the measure it doesn't leave any powder behind.
  14. jenrob

    jenrob Well-Known Member


    When you run your powder to chck it are you useing the bracket on the side or are you running a case up into it. If you just use the bracket your powder will drop will vary. The powder bushing stays down leaving a place for some powder to hang then on the next cycle it might fall off. Make sure to run a case to set it up. This would be for The LNL on the prog. with the powder bushings. If you are useing it on the bench with just drop tubes then I would say try and do all the above.

    I order a redding powder baffle (cheapest other than making one) had to kinda take a little of the bend out to but works great. Also use the pistol rotor even for 223 loads or anything that takes less powder. I used the Hornady one shot but would probably do it with the brake cleaner if doing again just cause it took better than half the can.

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