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New Red Hawk Needs trigger job How?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Master Blaster, Mar 7, 2003.

  1. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    I have put a couple of hundred rounds through my new 7.5" redhawk, and done a few hundred dry fires. The double action is fine but the single action is still stiff.

    How do you improve the single action trigger on a redhawk?

    Are there any smiths who provide this service as well?

    I'm in DE / SE Pa.


    WESHOOT2 Well-Known Member


    I have four Redhawks, and I'm not totally enamored with any of their SA pulls.
    So I don't use it.
    Except chrono testing :D

    That said, DON"T trade one iota of reliability away for a lighter pull.

    For compentent 'smiths look here: www.americanpistol.com or contact Hamilton Bowen.

    WESHOOT2 Well-Known Member


    They respond well to thorough cleaning, and lubing with BreakFree CLP and TetraGrease.
  4. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    So the answer is:

    To improve the SA pull on a redhawk, buy a Blackhawk

  5. Revolver Armorer

    Revolver Armorer Well-Known Member

    New Redhawk - Trigger Jobs?

    Sometimes (just sometimes) these guns have a problems with high mid cycle peak DA trigger pull. Usually indicative of a poorly fit Hammer Dog. You may notice that when you are firing your revolver that the Hammer seems to release a bit early? Called "Hammer Jump" and Mid Cycle High Peak trigger pull could be signs of a Hammer Dog which may need re-fitting. Might need re-fitting or even a new Hammer Dog. Sometimes a few could sneak by. :)
  6. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    I guess there are two ways

    1. requires honing of the contact surfaces of the sear/trigger and the Hammer.

    2. Change or clip the mainspring.

    Or Both

    I was hoping to hear from someone who had tried the reduced power or clipped mainspring.

  7. Revolver Armorer

    Revolver Armorer Well-Known Member

    Master Blaster,
    Sometimes merely telling someone to cut coils is not the best proposition. Reduction of mainsprnig power in name of custom gunsmithing is always a bad thing to do, especially when done blindly without the benefit of gauging. Although factory always is against changing mainsprings. Some custom gunsmiths do such. The main thing is that firing pin protrusion stays well within factory guidelines to insure ignition. A lot of drag can be taken out of a Redhawk by folks that are properly trained in the guns design and function. This is not work for someone who is not trained in proper gauging, diamensional parts inspection, part fitting and operational theory. One of the most problematic issues is those that cannot even understand transfer bar timing and passive safety devices. When those folks tamper with firearms, there is always something lost and very little gained. Most knowlegable firearms tuners know about tolerances, parts relationships and have appropriate technical information on hand. They also know to watch out for lifting, camming and engagement surfaces when work is being performed. :)
  8. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    I hope you are not saying that you are nostalgic for the good old days of the Nazis, are you?????
  9. Revolver Armorer

    Revolver Armorer Well-Known Member

    guns are used for killing right?

    So your only beliefs are that a firearm is for killing? If you answered yes, then you are in fact missing the fundamental point. :confused:
  10. WESHOOT2

    WESHOOT2 Well-Known Member


    SA for?

    Can try spring pack, whaddathey cost, $12 or so.
    Be interested in results if you go that way.
    Like I said, have four, but never really spent much time thinking about their pulls.
    Overtravel, that one you can't learn past............
  11. larryw

    larryw Well-Known Member

    I picked up one of the spring packs from Brownells for my Redhawk. Started with the lightest spring, 12#. Improvement in trigger was dramatic. No failures to fire using (hard) WLP and (harder) CCI 350 primers. YMMV.

    But I'm still not 100% happy with the trigger and will be sending it off to a proper smith as soon as I can see a way to be without that gun for 4-6 weeks.
  12. Revolver Armorer

    Revolver Armorer Well-Known Member


    Just remember to gauge the firing pin protrusion. Good readings are around .040. Gauges are cheap (think I saw one for $19.00). Too bad I was not properly licensed with an F.F.L. I could do miracles on a Ruger. :)
  13. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    New Problem with Redhawk

    Last week I put 75 rounds down range. I fired two cylinders full double action, and the rest single action. I had one light firing pin hit lightly dented primer did not go off, this was in double action. I put it down to not fully seating the primer.

    Yesterday I took the redhawk out to the range again and I fired two cylinders double action on the second cylinder full I had two light hits. No light hits single action, just double action.

    I have not changed or clipped the stock spring, so a lighter spring is out of the question with this gun.

    I think I will be sending my new $500 gun back to ruger very shortly. :fire:
  14. WESHOOT2

    WESHOOT2 Well-Known Member


    Federal primers?
  15. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    Handloads, 7gr unique 240LSWC OAL per speer 13. Winchester Large pistol primers (magnum or reg loads)

    The light hit is about half the depth of a normal one. It only happens when firing slow double action.

    I'm begining to think I should have bought the super blackhawk instead.

    The gun is very accurate though, and nicely finished in every way.
  16. larryw

    larryw Well-Known Member

    While we're sorta on the subject, once I've got my Redhawk stripped to the frame, how do I remove the firing pin? I'd like to give the pin and chamber a good scrubbing.

  17. Master Blaster

    Master Blaster Well-Known Member

    It appears to me that the firing pin is retained by a cross pin the the rear of the frame near the top where the hammer hits the frame. The pin runs from side to side throught the frame and is ground flush with the contour of the sides of the frame, so it appears that this is not a user serviceable part, since replacing it would require that an oversized pin be fitted to the frame and then ground and polished to match the frame.

    You could look at the manual and see if the firing pin and return spring and cross pin say factory replacment only or gunsmith fitting required. I believe that they do. Last night I hosed mine out with gunscrubber and put a drop of clp in it to see if this fixes the light hit double action problem.

    Revolverarmourer How about happiness is the fitting bench at S&W in 1965? I have a model 27-2 made in 1967 that is just the most beautiful work of craftsmanship, fitting, and finish of any gun that I have ever seen, and the lockwork on it is perfect.:)
  18. Revolver Armorer

    Revolver Armorer Well-Known Member

    been there done that Master Blaster

    Master Blaster,
    There is no mystery how S&W revolvers are made, at least for me. However, the hardcore factory technical data for guns like the old Iver Johnsons, Harrington & Richardson top break "Owl Head" revolvers has either been destroyed, archived or rotting in some warehouse, or perhaps even died with the gun builders themselves. You will not find any indepth manufacturing data on guns like the Merwin & Hulbert revolvers of the west or WW2 pocket pistols like the Polish CZ or the German automatic rifle Stg 44. It is so easy to see how factory data dies and meathods lost. There are a lot of guns like Ithaca 37 and High Standard .22s that needs revival from a youthful, albeit technically capable crop of younger craftsman. The gun builders of yesterday don't have Vacuum Furnaces, Light Interference Probes and premium CVM Certified Steels of today. The microstruction of todays gun steels approaches perfection. It's only the lazy smaller parts that are lacking. The smaller parts lack carefull handfitting of small parts (such as trigger bar bearing surfaces) and extractor tuning. Modern guns need EDM Hammers and Sears. If hands of yesterday met guns of today, firearms would reached a milestone of perfection never known. I am sure that even current manufacturing can make Carbonal Bluing even more beautiful then ever before. Gunbuilders even have "Liquid Honing" for perfect rounds and sqare corners. Even the screws can be made perfect for thread friction and fit when qualified. CNC Machinery is now making tolerances of 1 micron (.0254) possible. When we speak Microinches, we are talking guns that are clones when dimensions are so close. The new guns only need to be touched by warm hands and smaller parts of more expensive materials. :)
  19. rmgunsmith

    rmgunsmith Active Member

    Redhawk springs

    I have performed several trigger jobs on Redhawks with good results. Light stone all moving part surfaces with an extra fine stone. Don't change any angles, just polish! Stone the inside of the frame where any moving parts touch. Clean thoroughly.

    The action will improve after numerous pulls of the trigger which causes the parts to wear in. Ruger says that you can dry fire the Redhawk without damage.

    The Redhawks come from the factory with a 17# main spring. The Wolff spring kits comes with 12, 13 & 14 pound springs. I have had good success with the 14# spring as long as the metal polishing is good.

    I have had no failure to fire with this combination.
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2007
  20. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

    What has that got to do with anything?

    The hammer still hits the transfer bar, and the transfer bar still hits the firing pin when you pull the trigger.

    It's no different then dry firing a gun without a transfer bar.


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